What did you do to your ride today

Installed my downpipe today at our Okie Nator install day.





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Changed plugs, did compression test (195 across the board, yay) oil change, trans fluid change. Brake fluid is the last maintenance planned for this spring, debating when to do my power steering fluid and coolant. At 63k miles currently.

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Installed ebay GFB bpv, choo choo noises here I come

Also put in led brake light bulbs yesterday; bulbs are too long for the housing to let the socket clip into place like it should, so...30 minutes and about 50 zip ties later I think I have it janked up pretty securely, haha. #ghettoracing

 

Busy weekend for me. Things I did:

New serpentine belt
Re-gapped spark plugs
Finished putting my raider bumper tabs on
Installed my intank fuel pump
Ran all the -6an fuel lines
Broke, fixed and installed my AEM fuel pressure regulator
Installed my AFR and Boost gauge
Finished fabbing and put on my ducting dust sheilds

Have a few more things I wanted to do, but time is short and I don't feel well today.

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Installed my CS oil sensor plate today.

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Fixed a total of 9 boost leaks over the past few days. How has my car not exploded yet?

 

Balls! Are you sure you got them all?

 

I pressurized the system to 25psi and couldn't hear anything or find any bubbles. Hopefully I'm good. Idle afrs are back to normal and idle stft isn't tanking.......yet.

 

Here's hoping it's all sorted

 

What a lot of people don't realize/address until it happens is that boost leaks naturally form over time as the silicone couplers compress under the t-bolt/clamp pressure and end up loosening the seal, potentially creating many boost leaks. Re-tightening them, just like re-torquing bolts, is often necessary.

 

I've never heard nor experienced such a thing in all my years of ownership. Maybe your clamps and couplers are crappy? Hell most of the time it's a raw fight to get the damn things off after removing the clamps.

 

Changed the oil and put the summer wheels and tires back on.

 

Exactly why I avoid the hairspray method.

 

I dont think you will compress silicone past its elastic range, and if you do you are WAY over tightening things. Once you get to that plastic deformation range, it still shouldn't gain further compression unless for some reason the silicone is actually breaking down. Whats more likely is that you have put the T-bolt clamps on and off so many times the Nylock nut no longer retains, and the vibration of the car is causing it to slightly loosen over time.

Ive never had an issue with a leak once I have had everything tight with good retaining nuts.

 

I got my new QuickJack in and set up the other day. Ceilings are too low for any sort of traditional lift unfortunately. And I don't have the money to raise the ceilings and also reinforce the concrete in the floor, so this seemed like a reasonable compromise. Also, it's completely portable and will most likely be seeing some time at the track as well. Better than jack stands if nothing else!

 

@Quigs the quickjack comes with everything you need right?

 

I want one of dem

 

Everything except for a power source...I got the 12v version so I could use it at the track and use my battery jump box to power it. On my Miata I just use the car's battery since it is in the trunk and I usually place the hydraulic unit at the rear of the car. There is also a 110AC version that just plugs right in. But yes, everything you see there to get the car off the ground is included.

Also, I intentionally got an "outdated" version. There is a stash of the older style 5000 lb units that are on closeout. The newer 5000 lb ones are too long to fit underneath my Miata. I could've gotten the 3500 lb one and been fine, but I got the extra capacity for cheaper.

 

Good to know. I've definitely had non-leaking couplers start to leak. Problem is, I don't think you count use an in/lb tq wrench or something to ensure you have the proper amount of tightening. I personally just look for a little bulging right next to the clamp the first time I tighten it. That seems to work pretty well. But I've definitely had to go back and tighten more, after boost-leak testing, etc., on couplers that were previously not leaking.

 

Shitty clamps?


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