VoodooShark's V2 Buttz Build

Yeah, I spoke directly with the piston engineer from Mahle who collaborated with SP63 to create and refine the 4032s (multiple emails and a phone call), explained my goals, and he said I'd be totally fine with the 4032 alloy.

 

[doublepost=1496162824][/doublepost]Finally got time to do this. Your instructions and a video found on line for visual reference helped a lot. I had to take off the top mount and heat shrouds to get to the bottom heat shroud which seems to have been interfering with the actuator arm. Once that was off I noticed the nut on the arm was only about half way up the threads. I tightened it up all the way, left the heat shroud off and put the rest back together. Took it for a spin and it feels like it's pulling harder and quicker. Hopefully this was the problem, because I don't want to mess with that tiny clip everyone looses. Data is now off to the tuner for confirmation. Thanks again for the help.

*EDIT-- Tuner said that was most likely the issue. 4th gear WOT logs taken and sent for eval. Should be off to meth land shortly.

 

Glad it helped, Flyhigh. Not a hard procedure, but deserves a bit of caution the first time like anything else.

Got my rods ordered today, pistons won`t be in stock until the end of this week so I`ll order those friday. Going to go with the Clutchmasters FX 400 clutch. It`ll hold 700+ft/lbs and is pretty civil on the DD duties (Also inquired about the one issue I read about with this clutch, and was informed that CM uses OEM pressure plate blanks so there is absolutely NO reason there would be any interference quirks whatsoever outside of installer error). There`s always incidental expenses that push above the budget, but it`ll all add up to a car I am proud to own and confident in driving in a manner it has been built for.

 

Everything but the injector seals is ordered. Not that they were failing, but a good idea to do them with a new build. Undecided on going CPe or doing the Toyota seals. I know Mainsonvi has had the toyota seals for some time now without an issue and he`s making great power. I`ve got a little bit of time to make that decision.

Should be an easy 465whp when she`s broken in and ready to turn up the wick. Two weeks is possible, three is likely.

 

Why not CS/Tokay seals?

 

I am really not fond of CS. I will avoid their parts unless there is simply no other option, but admittedly I`ll run their injector seals if the right deal comes along.

 

They're supposed to be the best. They weren't designed by corksport, they just have the rights to have them manufactured and sold. It's what I went with. Only CS part on my car.

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My $.02 FWIW...The guy I used to install my seals is a master Mazda mechanic and has worked on Speeds for 10+ years. His reasoning for using the CP-E seals over the CS was simple. He has been able to remove and re-use CP-E seals over and over again if they had to come out for some reason. The CS seals are 1 and done because they crush when installed. I know there have been battles about this in the past, but I trust him on this.

 

For folks not digging into their cars frequently I don't see a problem with the CS seals.

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Installation error = buying another set of seals. $15 difference in price is well worth the security IMO.

 

Tow truck just picked her up. She`ll be at Growler in an hour. There is a very, very slim chance it could be done saturday of NEXT week (7 to 10 working days if it goes smooth), but I`m not expecting it to be that soon.
[doublepost=1497376248][/doublepost]Just talked to the owner of the shop. The car arrived (not that I suspected it wouldn`t) and they`re expecting to have it out and apart for tomorrow evening. We talked for quite a while, and without going into the whole conversation, I am feeling pretty good about these guys doing the work. Of course the proof will be when it`s done and stays together reliably but so far I`m not unhappy about where it is. I`ll update along the way if there is anything noteworthy.

 

Engine`s out and the teardown *just* started. No signs of anything catastrophic so far. If it unfolds the way it looks it will I`m looking at a fairly straightforward rebuild and a very predictable time line.

 

Man, if you get your car done before mine I'm having my towed to that shop.

 

Man, there`s still obviously a lot of work to do but I`m gonna feel bad for you if it is. I am going to run up there tuesday and drop off some more parts, I`ll tell Chris to expect a call from you LOL.

 

Get it Jef, just make sure its at least 1hp less than my set up.

 

Hahaha, man, you`ve got me by leaps and bounds in fuel, not to mention what your huffer might have over mine. She`s probably got 480ish in her without going beyond sane levels of tune, and probably closer to 460 at DD expectations. I`m OK with that, but that doesn`t mean I`m gonna dial it back if she farts out a pony or two ahead of where you are pre new injectors LOL

 

Last of the hard parts showed up between friday and today (clutch and vvt/timing kit among them). Gonna run the last pile of parts up to the shop tomorrow and hopefully grab a few pics of the bent rod.

 

Cylinder #1 went. Aside from this, the rest is fine. Ringlands are all fine, crank is fine, rod journals are fine. Even the cylinder walls are "fine", but with 111K on the odometer she`s getting the 88mm treatment regardless.

 

Was this from running your hot tune?

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well, it was in fact turning more tq than it should have but this had nothing to do with the tune.