How To ITFP replacement

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 How-To' started by Patrick Martz, Mar 1, 2016.

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  1. Patrick Martz

    Patrick Martz Greenie Member

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    We were just replacing the ITFP filter in these pictures but I will outline how to take the one more step to replace the pump too. MAKE SURE TO WEAR THICK GLOVES AS THE SHEET METAL IS SHARP!!!
    First thing we did was pull the base of the back seat up and off. They just use one clip on each side, so grab where someone's butt would be and pull up and it will pop off.
    You're left with this under the seat (I had already taken the fuel tank basket cover off at this point but the cover is pictured next)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Take the 4 Philips head screws out then remove the cover, then unplug the pump trigger:
    [​IMG]
    Here we start to cut the access hole bigger to be able to lift the ITFP basket out. Some say to use Air Nibblers but I used those on my car and broke them then had to finish the hole with metal snips which sucked. Also the Nibblers made a mess, regaurdless here is the link for the Nibblers. (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/16-gauge-air-nibbler-96661.html) What I used on Sho's car was Air Metal Shears (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html) They worked better IMO and didn't make a mess.
    [​IMG]
    Chipped off the sound deadening so I can finish the cut:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I've seen people be able to pop the rivets on the brace here but I couldn't get it on this car. I also didn't have any drill bits with me to drill out the rivets. So I just bent the top of it with the hole out of the way and cut around it.
    [​IMG]
    Now we unplug the fuel line going to the top of the basket. It has a white ring that you press in and it backs right off, see it in the video. Put a rag over it as it will shoot fuel everywhere (I forgot to do that here). Then find the ribs on the ring around the edge of the basket that are braced, if you're looking at the basket from the rear passenger door they should be at about 4-5 o'clock. Take a big flat head and a big hammer and GENTLY hit the ring counter clockwise off. I didn't have to put any lube on this one as it broke loose pretty easy (could have been all the e85 that went all over the top of it when I took the fuel line off, oops). Mine I had to spray some penetrating lube around the ring to get it to break loose.

    Once the ring is completely off just wiggle the basket back and forth and it should break loose from the rubber seal and pull right up. The float is in there too so you'll have to tip the basket at an angle to bring it out right without breaking the float. Also the basket will be filled with fuel, don't dump it everywhere.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now take the basket aside and depress the top hat of the basket and remove the lock ring on the bottom of the post with the spring:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now unplug these guys, Take note where they go, white on the outside and black on the inside. I don't know if they will even plug into the other ones spot I didn't try, just don't do it.
    [​IMG]
    Pop all these tabs off, there are 3:
    [​IMG]
    Then once you have the pump cradle out pop off all the tabs holding the filter on. I believe there are 5 of them.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Here is the part number for the new filter from Mazda. If you're putting in a new pump it will most likely come with a new filter, my DW300c did at least.
    Mazda ITFP filter Part Number: LFB6-13-ZE1
    [​IMG]
    and a couple pictures to compare. The old filter had 185k miles, 90k of which was on an E20-E33 mix.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    So if you're going further than just a filter replacement all you have to do is pull the pump out the bottom as the filter kind of holds it in there. My DW pump came with a new o-ring to seal into the basket. Just pop the new one in and then reassemble everything with the basket. Time to put it back in!

    Tighten the lock ring back around the basket:

    Plug everything back in and clean everything up.
    [​IMG]
    I sprayed some rust inhibitor around the fresh metal that was cut to prevent rusting as this car is a DD.
    Next we have to cover up the hole that we just made under the back seat as its open to the ground. I bought some self tapping metal heat duct #6x1/2" screws and a flat sheet of heating duct metal that was then cut into a 10" by 10" square that was then screwed down to the sheet metal of the car under the seat.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    not the prettiest but it will get the job done:
    [​IMG]
    I then put duck tape over the screws to seal on the inside of them and then another over and on the outside of the screws and sheet metal to seal it to the car to make sure the outside stays on the outside. Then as a final touch we threw on a sticker to remind all of us this is how we do.
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Platinum Member

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    Awesome write up man. I started a write up on this as well but yours is much better than mine would be. Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
     
    Maisonvi, via a mobile device, Mar 1, 2016
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  3. WetzMS3

    WetzMS3 Greenie Member

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    One note, careful with those self tapping sheet metal screws towards the rear of the opening. The gas tank sits really close to there and you can easily put a screw into it if they're too long or in the wrong location.
     
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  4. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    Great write up! I really hope i dont have to do this anytime soon. As @WetzMS3 mentioned be careful when selecting your self tapping screw length (to future readers I'm sure OP hasn't had any issues)
     
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  5. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    No issues with the screws hitting the tank. The car in the OP is mine! Was nuts seeing how filthy that filter was, then again I can't be surprised seeing how much fuel has gone through it lol
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Mar 3, 2016
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  6. blackms3_71

    blackms3_71 Greenie Member

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    Car feel any different with a clean filter ?
     
    blackms3_71, via a mobile device, Mar 3, 2016
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  7. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    I actually was recommended to change it out by my tuner after he saw my IDC well over 100 and AFR leaning out to 12.2 or so up top even with as much meth as I'm spraying. With no changes to the tune, after replacing the filter; AFR down low (4k rpm-5k) is now super rich (in the 10's), and up top where it was going lean, is now in the low 11's. Due to shit weather in Ohio, I haven't been able to log or get any revisions, however Mark and I will be throwing the car on the dyno at the end of March and dialing it in.
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Mar 3, 2016
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  8. JT Ho

    JT Ho Greenie Member

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    Im curious myself if there are any gains. I might attempt this on my MS6 once the weather gets warmer and stays warmer
     
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  9. Meicalnissyen

    Meicalnissyen Platinum Member

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    Nice write up
    A very underdone mod, IMHO
    My DW did not come with filter, I blasted mine out and reused. also lubed that damn ring up just in case. may use your PN, and dive back in someday to replace. in a spark free way haha

    I would point out that caution is advised. I would do this job in a manner that creates a zero static, non smoking, low ventilation (the vapors sink and will tend to stay in the tank) way.

    Tuning? hell yeah it helps.

    the worst thing you can do to a positive displacement pump is throttle the intake side
     
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  10. Tommy

    Tommy Greenie Member

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    About to get this started, about to ask a question and hope to get that one missing pic and i see OP got banned. JMFL.
     
  11. KiwiFlavor

    KiwiFlavor Greenie N00B Member

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    @Maisonvi can prob help you too.
     
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  12. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Platinum Member

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    Whats up man? Ive done this a few times now, might be able to help
     
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  13. Tommy

    Tommy Greenie Member

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    Thanks bro. I am trying to get the ring off and it just won't budge. What and where do I need to hold down the retaining ring? I see what looks like 3 clips, one face back, one to the left side and one to the right.
     
  14. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    Did you miss the video in the OP?
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Oct 16, 2017
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  15. Tommy

    Tommy Greenie Member

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    I sure didn't. Unfortunatley, I think he skipped the releasing of the clip locking it in place. Picking up the auto zone yool kit tonight to see how that goes
     
  16. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    What/which clip? That video is of my car. There was no releasing of any clip
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Oct 17, 2017
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  17. Tommy

    Tommy Greenie Member

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    Well, mine seems to have three of them. I'm pretty sure I know which one is holding it in but I don't know if I'm supposed to press it down or squeeze it
     
    Tommy, via a mobile device, Oct 17, 2017
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  18. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Platinum Member

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    Not sure what clip you are talking about. I didnt have any clips, unless you mean the one on the fuel line, thats just a button you press.
     
  19. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    I'm guessing he's talking about these... In which case, you don't touch them. Once you start spinning the ring loose, they don't interfere Capture+_2017-10-17-14-55-54.png
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Oct 17, 2017
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  20. Tommy

    Tommy Greenie Member

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    You got it Sho. I guess my shit was just frozen on there. 224k miles will do that. I picked up a rental tool from Auto Zone to get the ring off. It's "OEM Tools" 27160, in case anyone else ever comes across this.
    http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...-kit/oem-fuel-pump-replacement-kit/605758_0_0
    The tool to the far right is what you use on the ring. I attached a breaker bar to it although you need a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to do that.
    [​IMG]
     
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