Solarsurge's Ongoing 2013 LSM Build

I believe it was still showing low rpm on cranking

 

Throwing the idea out there. Cant you start the engine without the MAF sensor plugged in?

 

No. It doesn't start no matter what we do.

Here's what we HAVE done so far:

CHECKED compression: 130~ across the board (normal for new engine on my gauge)
CHECKED spark: Confirmed spark by grounding now FIVE different ways, including inside the spark plug well itself.
CHECKED fuel: Confirmed fuel is spraying via wet plugs and gas smell in cylinders/tailpipe

In Tank Fuel Pump primes, fuel pressure between 51 and 77 PSI with key on. Normal.
Only builds to 200~350 PSI while cranking, builds to 750~PSI in Clear Flood mode.

After logging cranks, my tuner says it's fuel pressure related, and pointed to the HPFP, Spill Valve, or something on the fuel rail. He says it must be building to well over 400 PSI while cranking in order to start, but it won't.

Checked all ground points (including the coil pack ground), all grounds 12.8v sitting, 11.0-11.2v while cranking.
INSPECTED my upgraded HPFP. Completely disassembled it and reassembled it. No problems detected.
INSPECTED my HPFP Cam Follower Bucket. No problems detected, lubed well and moving freely. Cam surface unblemished.
REPLACED HPFP entirely with a spare stock HPFP. Fuel pressure actually got WORSE, 100-200 PSI while cranking.
REPLACED Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
REPLACED Fuel Pressure Relief Valve
REPLACED Fuel Pump Resistor Ballast
REPLACED Fuel Pump Fuse
REPLACED Fuel Pump Relay
REPLACED Cam Sensor
REPLACED Crank Sensor
REPLACED Ignition Harness

Still, no engine trouble codes.
Still no running engine.

Just an occasional pop, but no start.

Frustration is not even the word anymore. I'm legit losing my composure.

 

Stupid suggestion....

Have you tried a different battery with enough CCA?

I dont think I've been able to successfully jump start these cars.

Otherwise... have you considered an exorcism?

 

You said changing the pump made pressure worse so I would look at the pump. Maybe you have a bad connector for the spill valve. If you put 12 volts to the spill valve the pump should build max pressure try starting your car that way. Now what I would do next is Flash an off-the-shelf map with the correct maf cal to eliminate the tune as a problem. It will probably run like shit and I wouldn't drive with the map but it will let you know if it is keeping the car from turning over.

Now if you have air fuel and Spark the only other thing that could be stopping the car from running would be your ignition timing. That's based off your cam and crank sensor. If you have an AP just pull up RPM while you're cranking and see if it moves. You should also be able to monitor the cam sensor by looking at VVT since I believe it is based off the difference between the two sensors on the AP display.

 

Is number 4 injector connected fully? JmF v2 pulls very tight on the harness I had to plug mine in and zip tie it on after I had the manifold on.

 

^ this happened to me, too

 

At this point, the only mechanical parts I haven’t replaced are the injectors themselves, which just got serviced. So it MUST be an electrical issue:

1. Something wrong with electrical connection to the spill valve.
2. Something wrong with electrical connection to injectors that’s making them stay open and dump too much gas and flood the engine, even though they literally just got serviced.
3. Something wrong with PCM.


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On a lighter note, I’ve gotten to the point I can completely replace a HPFP in about 15 minutes.


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I tried changing maps to my previous known good map with correct MAF cal, still didn’t start. Also, it is reading proper RPM, which it wouldn’t do if the crank sensor was bad. I also have two known good cam position sensors and neither one had any affect. Not sure how else I can monitor the cam sensor other than Intake Valve Adv, but both sensors stay at 0 degrees on AP.


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Posted this in chat, but have you flashed a zeroed out map in R4 to both MAP A/B on the split second controller? Have you also configured the correct settings in R4? Have you verified that the MAF V and RPMs are reading correctly on the SS controller? Verify that the crank position sensor is on the right way. My dumb ass had it on backwards and had a similar problem. I'd eliminate all of the extra fueling stuff to verify whether that's part of it or not. you won't need it until you're under load anyways.

 

SS is not hooked up. CKP is on correctly and reading RPMs properly.


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The mystery has been solved, and I’m just ecstatic that It was nothing that I did wrong. In fact, it turned out to be the only part Of the entire engine that I did not do personally. The fucking idiot that keyed my crank pulley keyed it upside down. So, the entire engine is in time properly because thankfully I did not do the cam timing with the crank pulley on. But the crank pulley is off by 180° And I never even noticed because I just put it on according to the keyway.



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Oh shit!

 

Yep. And of course it’s Friday, so there isn’t shit I can do about it until Monday. Luckily I also have a spare crank pulley. They BETTER key this shit on demand Monday morning. I don’t want to hear sob stories about workloads or wait times. I’m relieved and pissed at the same time. I’m just glad it’s not electrical. But now that I’ve cracked open the entire fuel system chasing down this problem, I can only imagine what’s going to fail next. I also chipped and scratched my freshly painted valve cover before I got the chance to properly cure it with engine heat.


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In for machine shop drama.

Hope they get it fixed soon

 

Got the new crank pulley with the CORRECT key way cut, perfectly lined up at TDC with the 20th tooth.

Also figured it was probably about time to change the cabin air filters (lol)...

Now for the moment you’ve all been waiting for...

SHE’S ALIVE!!!



She was VERY grumpy on the first start and made some not so pleasant sounds and threw like 10 codes immediately. She also blew all sorts of black shit out the exhaust. The new valvetrain made some chatter and there were some clicks I was concerned about, so we killed it. Checked a few things over, realized the BPV hose was loose, tightened it back up, cleared codes and reset the ECU. Second time she started up and no codes.

Brought her up to temp, topped off the coolant, drained the break in oil, and put normal oil in, which she IMMEDIATELY liked a lot better. She quieted right down and tamed up. No codes, no leaks, everything works except for some reason I blow fog light fuses as soon as I put them in. Need to sort that out.

Overall first impression of things, the vibes are freaking nasty from the full stiff mounts. Also, the clutch pedal weighs like 100 lbs and you have to literally mash it all the way to the floor just to get it to release and that sucker grabs IMMEDIATELY as soon as you start letting it an inch off the floor. Complete polar opposite of my high stock clutch release point. That’s gonna take some getting used to. Maiden voyage down the block was a success and she drives in every gear.

More to come!

 

Do MS3s break clutch pedal assemblies like MS6s do when you go to a stronger clutch?

 

Huzzah! She finally lives!

 

Apparently the gen2 does. There's a thread about it somewhere.

Also if your clutch still feels incredibly stiff, power bleed it a couple of times over again. You'd be surprised how much air can stay trapped in there.