Covert Speed 3 to Speed 6, Supra, Lexus Slave Cylinder + Stainless 3an Lines

UPDATE: 4/2020
After using this for a while it appears that the speed 6 bore is not going to work with the speed 3 master cylinder. It creates too much pressure for the master and screws it up. You can use this guide to make your own 3an line setup but for now this is not a solution.

UPDATE 2: !!! 1/7/2022 !!!
It seems like the 2005 Lexus IS300 slave is am almost direct swap "still need new lines" and matches up to the bolt holes. If anyone can try this let me know and I will update this thread.




The speed 6 slave is pretty cheap, reliable and rebuild able. I was looking to do stainless lines to replace my 155k miles rubber lines and figured I could covert to that as well. @CMajor Had installed the 6 on his and it was working well so I decided to go for it.

Tools needed

• OTC 4503 Stinger Double Flaring Tool Kit
  
• Steel Tube Nut, 1/4 (7/16-24 Inverted) "goes on OEM line"
  
• Fragola (481503) #3 Union Fitting Adapter "used to connect two 3an lines as I had two on hand you could just use a single long one if you really wanted to"
  
• (E-11-9) -3AN Male To 7/16-24 Female SAE Brake Line Fitting Adapter For 1/4" HLF02 1pc "for OEM hardline to convert to 3an"
  
• Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hose Line -3an Straight W/90 10" Long Clear Coated "used this for the run from the firewall to the Union"
  
• You will need another line if you are using the union. 12" maybe , it's been a while since I did this.
• ???? I don't remember and can not find the fitting that needs to be on the speed 6 slave

I decided to convert the hard line right off the master cylinder to have a fitting on in so that I could run a 3an stainless line all the way to the slave. Here are some pics on how I did it. If you have never used a double flare tool , watch a couple youtube vids. I made a bracket to hold it in place as well but don't really have a great pic.

 

Heres the shorter mounting bolts needed for the slave if you don't wanna chop the ms3 mounting bolts or use washers as spacers

 

So what is the motivation behind this swap?

Is it just cheaper long term and more durable?

Or did you guys gain a longer stroke from the MS6 slave cylinder?

 

Stroke *lol* seems the same. I wanted a solid line and not rubber "high miles" so I figured why not convert as it's also cheaper and supposedly more durable. This is what i got.
Dorman CS650069 Clutch Slave Cylinder

 

Said and done what was the total cost to convert to speed6 slave?


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Maybe 100$ tops. That's if you don't have a flaring tool but none of the parts are crazy expensive.

 

That’s a good option since the cost is similar to a new speed3 slave. I wish a rebuild kit was offered for the speed3. I lost my clutch pedal earlier in the week and started researching solutions. Just needed new fluid. I guess bleeding the clutch twice in 128k is not enough.


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How are you bleeding it?

Hydraulic clutches are real finicky if even the slightest bit of air is in the system, considering the whole system has a low fluid capacity to begin with.

I've noticed this with both the Speed and the Mustang. The mustang I power bleed 4-5 times (internal slave, it's a bitch to get the air out), the speed just 2 or 3. It sounds tedious, but it does give you a nice consistent pedal.

I think Phate was the one that provided a good tip about it a while back. That is to power bleed the system, then pump/operate the pedal a few times slowly and then fast. Then repeat the bleed.

 

Its got a metal piston instead of plastic guts lkke the ms3.

And the ms6 slave is completely rebuildable unlike the ms3.

 

How are you bleeding it?

Hydraulic clutches are real finicky if even the slightest bit of air is in the system, considering the whole system has a low fluid capacity to begin with.

I've noticed this with both the Speed and the Mustang. The mustang I power bleed 4-5 times (internal slave, it's a bitch to get the air out), the speed just 2 or 3. It sounds tedious, but it does give you a nice consistent pedal.

I think Phate was the one that provided a good tip about it a while back. That is to power bleed the system, then pump/operate the pedal a few times slowly and then fast. Then repeat the bleed.[/QUOTE]




I read that bleeding the slave was finicky. And I was unaware of Phates recommendations. I used a mittyvac hand pump and pumped up to 20 and cracked the bleeder. Then I’d keep the pump above 15 and close the bleeder. Then fill the reservoir with fluid. Then I’d slowly pump the clutch a few times. Towards the end I started the car and pumped. First fluid came out black and pedal finally had some pressure.

Rinsed and repeated a bunch. Bled half of the large brake fluid bottle.

I’d have to check my records when I changed the fluid last, possible last spring, but I know I did about 30 autocross events since last spring.




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I just set the power bleeder to 20 psi and let it do the job for like 1 min or two. I did this when it was completely empty after the rebuild and it worked great. I have done it a few times that way even for the brakes and never had to touch the pedal. Not sure why you guys need such an elaborate process.

 

I spent a little more time than usual only because it’s cold in Wisconsin and I don’t feel like dropping the CS skidplate again. At least not in the winter.


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@macdiesel

I made my own pneumatic power bleeder out of my Leakdown Tester, a gallon of Arizona Iced tea, and a master cylinder cap from Motive. I set it to 10psi and bleed the brakes, then the clutch. Brakes take a grand total of 20 minutes to bleed all 4 corners, and the clutch takes me just over 5 minutes.

For the clutch I power bleed it for a minute or two until the fluid starts coming out clear, then cease pressure and vent. I step on the clutch a few times, then repeat the bleed.

It sounds tedious, but it is actually stupid simple and the compressor does all the work. I've tried the mityvac method several times, pump it to 20vac, I let it drop to 5 before I close the bleeder. Never been happy with the bleed. Since I switched to power bleeding, have not had any issues.

 

Nice current update!!! Just hit wrong button, and shout box came up. Of course can't turn away, and I see you added the IS300, thank you...

 

Awesome stuff! Has anyone ever thought to do a remote mount Clutch Master reservoir? I'm sure if could be set up fairly easily. Even mounted to the battery box if the PCM is relocated. At least then it would be easier to fill/bleed the system.

 

I thought about it because of how much our master sucks to replace but that's all the further I got lol.

 

I keep hearing about how the Gen1 3's master is a PITA. The speed 6 is easy from what I've experienced parting one out, is the 2nd gen 3 also terrible?

 

I helped my friend replace his and it was a big pain in the ass. Whomever thought it was a good idea to have a master cylinder twist into place is an idiot.

I don't think it would be difficult to remote reservoir the system. You'd need to have the quick fittings to match and then just make a plug for the brake master port.

 

Doesn't the clutch pedal like have a plunger that goes into the reservoir? How would you remote that up?

 

Not on a 3. The 3 has a nipple that a plastic hard line connects to. The hard line goes between the Brake MC reservoir to the Clutch MC. It makes bleeding the system a pain because the MC has to be filled to the top constantly otherwise an air pocket gets in.