Accessport V3 parameter monitoring

Discussion in 'Tuning Knowledgebase' started by _Mazdarati, Feb 18, 2020.

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  1. _Mazdarati

    _Mazdarati I just want my car back Greenie Member

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    So some people, including myself, were curious on what some good things to monitor on an AP would be.

    I currently monitor boost, HPFP pressure, knock, IDCs, LTFTs, and WGDC/whatever I feel like looking at. More so I switch the last one around depending on what I'm doing.

    What do you guys think? What are good things to monitor and some limits/numbers I should be worried about if I see them during a pull? What should I monitor if I'm logging?

    Just curious to see some differing ideas!
     
    _Mazdarati, via a mobile device, Feb 18, 2020
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  2. KiwiFlavor

    KiwiFlavor Greenie N00B Member

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    Right now I have Boost, AFR, Coolant temp, LTFT, KR and Boost Air Temp.

    Boost = It's nice to see that my pad thai pounder is making 35 PSI. I def like to swing that big dick PSI energy around. But on one occasion, I saw it spiked to 36psi when I know my tune was commanding 17psi. Checked the line to EWG and sure enough, the line came off.

    I have coolant temp on screen to make sure I don't reach too high of a temp. I see 220°F on average. I feel that once it gets to 225 and above is when I need to see if I have a leak somewhere or maybe the system is not bled properly.

    LTFT is to check if I have some vacuum or boost leak. I've heard people say ~10/-10 is still okay. someone can definitely chime in.

    KR just so I know that my pistons aren't knock-knocking on heaven's door.

    BAT I've never really paid attention to honestly.
     
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  3. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    I use Versatune and keep torque on my phone for just casual pid viewing. These are the values I use. GPS speed because my summer tires make the speedo wrong. I use "Kitbest Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner" for my obd2 scanner and it works well. I don't log with this I just use it to see while I am putting around as peace of mind. You will also need the mazdaspeed torque pid addon from the play store.

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. KloudKhaos

    KloudKhaos Greenie N00B Member

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    Is this thing worth a damn? Pretty accurate readings? In a timely manner?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    KloudKhaos, via a mobile device, Feb 18, 2020
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  5. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    Totally worth it. It's not crazy fast but you can see if shit's getting bad or if LTFT starts to creep. It can also pull check engine codes and clear them. Mine auto connects when I get in the car and I have this "Amoner Dashboard Car" to hold it like an AP.
     
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  6. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    This is what I monitor, haven’t changed it up at all yet unless diagnosing or something.
    FF9F97AC-A29D-4A17-AC6B-DCBD6C1CAEDE.jpeg

    I feel like that’s all you really need. I’ve recently installed an oil temp/pressure gauge and an afr wideband failsafe(thanks to @_Mazdarati for that one) but that’s more for the track usage my car sees. Regular street usage, oil temp/pressure probably aren’t necessary. Since AP shows max/min values you’d have to either log, or watch the AP while logging to find any real issues, and typically you’ll feel a real issue(during a pull) before you think of looking at the AP.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Feb 18, 2020
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  7. KloudKhaos

    KloudKhaos Greenie N00B Member

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    Was just wondering, I have a AP coming in, but V2.
    And if you know a v2, only shows one gauge. So this would be nice to have if accurate enough reading are available.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    KloudKhaos, via a mobile device, Feb 18, 2020
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  8. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    Looks like back in my Mazda days I watched the following -
    * AFR - handy to know how your tune/engine health is/are there any leaks
    * Boost - obviously if you aren't hitting crazy numbers, you need to drive harder
    * Coolant temp - didn't move the car until it was up to like 180*
    * KR - never really looked at this since KR only matters at WOT
    * RPM - dash gauge gets real inaccurate above 7,200 or so
    * LTFT - check for leaky leaks

    IMG_20170817_202242.jpg
     
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  9. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    20181017_183223_HDR-01-01-01.jpeg
    BAT- Dont like beating on the car when bats are high
    Rpm- tach is inaccurate at high rpm
    Boost- no explanation needed
    KR- impossible to watch during a pull, but oh well lol.
    Afr- to make sure port injection is spraying when it's supposed to
    Coolant temp- no driving til 138* , no boost below 180*. And watch for any possible over heating issues.

    I also logged almost every WOT run or spirited drive I ever did thru the back roads, to have data to review in case anything ever catastrophic happened and I wanted to find out why
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Feb 19, 2020
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  10. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    What are The supposed to be for LTFT you know for the fyi 2 new folks...also I need a reminder XD
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Feb 19, 2020
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  11. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    Pre-turbo = + trims, air added or sucked in
    turbo to TP = - trims, air lost or pushed out
    post TP = + trims, air added or sucked in

    +5 or -5 is ideal
    +7 or - 7 not crazy might want to look into it
    +10 or -10 look into it , you got a leak
    +20 or -20 shits broke yo
     
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  12. anthony

    anthony Greenie Member

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    I'm using a poverty 2 so usually
    AFR - Check PI functioning
    Knock- Watch my cars life flash before my eyes
     
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