Daily Driven Demon (Sleeper )

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 6 Build Diaries' started by Juschiln19, Jul 28, 2020.

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  1. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    This build starts with a little history. I purchased a 2006 speed 6 in 2015 for $7600. In Beautiful Mica Black with panda interior

    Pre existing problems:
    -Keyed down the side of car (Whole passenger side)
    -2 motor mounts shot

    Mods came with:
    -Turbosmart Dual Port BBV
    -Sure MAF Housing 2.5" Id
    -Spectre CAI Cone 3" Id
    -Strut Brace
    (Pictures of car and engine bay day after purchase 2015)
    20151113_160439.jpg
    20151113_160041.jpg

    Over the last 5 years I did alot. Nothing cosmetic besides new gen 2 rims. I Love the sleeper effect this car has!
    20180609_164806.jpg
    So I was just slowly building the car with the intention of building the motor in the future.
    Here is the setup I had:

    -BNR S4 V2
    -Grimmspeed Ebcs
    -Guardian angel
    -HTP 3.5" Intake W/Recir. Tube
    -2in1 oil sandwhich plate
    -Transfer case bearing caps
    -Engine M Drian plug w/C washer
    -Sure Diff Mounts
    -Sure Intake manifold Theromo Gasket
    -Sure Throttle Body Theromo Gasket
    -Denso 1 Step Colder Plugs
    -DM STAGE 3 Dual Occ's
    -DM Pcv vent plate
    -Rev 5 Oil cooler kit
    -Whilteline Rear sway bar
    -GS Oil pressure guage W/Alarm
    -Adju. Sway bar linkage(rear)
    -Oil return and feed line gaskets
    -Bosch 3.5 Bar Map
    -Map sensor adapter plug
    -ContinentalExtremeContactDWS06
    -Mazda 3 Oil Filter Housing
    -Rotella T6 Oil
    -SouthBend Stage 2 Clutch W/Lightweight Flywheel(9lb lighter then stock)
    -Autotech hpfp internals
    -Fmic (Tr6 core)/CX Racing Pipe kit
    -Custom gauge vent pod(Block8Head)
    -GS 3in1(Boost/oil temp/oil pressure)
    -VersaTuner ($100)(Base 91 Map)
    -Ebay 3" Catless Dp (both cats deleted)
    -EBC Stage 4 brake kit (W/ slotted rotors & red stuff pads)
    -SS Brake lines
    -SS Clutch line
    -Strut Brace
    (Picture of engine bay)
    20200507_211035.jpg

    Well I got into a accident and rear ended a Ford explorer.
    20181031_095542_1541010533595.jpg
    20181031_102853001_1541010500084.jpg

    The crash bar saved its life. Insurance deemed it totalled.
    I bought it back and fixed it with the pay out left over after the loan was paid off.
    Tho multiply shops said it did not have frame damage. I believe that not to be true. The right fender is bent outward and the hood hits by hinge when opened.
    (Picture of car after I repaired it)
    20190127_132124.jpg
    20190127_132140.jpg
    I found myself in the position to finally build the motor and finish the full build.
    Well Since the one I had has frame damage. I decided to search for a new rolling chassis.


    I found a rolling chassis for $800 with a shot valve and some hail damge. Also in Mica black but with Black interior.
    20200606_120613.jpg
    20200606_120630.jpg
    20200606_120639.jpg
    20200606_120644.jpg

    So I scooped it up and starting moving all upgrades to new one.


    So this is the new setup:
    -Overspeed Built Motor(Built For 700hp)(I'll include build sheet
    -Grimmspeed Ebcs
    -Guardian Angel
    -HTP 3.5" Intake W/Recirculation Tube (recirculation tube blocked)
    -4" to 3.5" coupler for intake
    -St manifold W/PI adapter
    -1000cc boush injectors
    -Split second controller
    -NGK 6510
    -DM STAGE 3 Dual Occ kit(running route 3) -DM Pcv vent plate (not new version)
    -Bosch 4 Bar Map
    -Turbosmart Dual Port BBV(Full VTA)
    -Rotella T6 Oil
    -Autotech hpfp internals
    -Fmic (Tr1035 kit w/crash bar)
    -CPE exhaust Manifold
    -Kosmic 3" DP
    -Tial Mv-R 44mm Wastegate (17lb spring)
    -PTE 5558 CEA Gen2
    -Hellcat fuel pump
    -Spin on oil filter conversion
    -Sandwhich plate
    -Transfer case bearing caps
    -Sure Rear Diff Mounts(Both)
    -Rev 5 Oil cooler kit
    -Whilteline Rear sway bar
    -Adju. Sway bar linkage(rear)
    -ContinentalExtremeContactDWS06 tires
    -GS 3in1(Boost/oil temp/oil pressure guage)
    -GS Oil Pressure guage W/Alarm
    -Fuel lab Fuel Regulator
    -custom 3" catback with 2 vibrant ultra quiet resonators (single exit no mufflers or cats)

    I opted to replace all sensors and all fail points (water pump, thermostat). My goal for this build is a 650hp daily
    (Engine Build Sheet)
    Screenshot_20200728-080427_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
    Screenshot_20200728-080448_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

    Currently I am still installing everything and switching everything over. I'll post updates as they come.
     

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    Last edited: May 29, 2022
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Jul 28, 2020
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  2. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Quite the build!
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Jul 28, 2020
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  3. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    Looks good, probably would get rid of the brotella and switch to mobil 5w40 or royal purple 5w30. Lots of modern oils have made advances and brotella is not ideal anymore.
     
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  4. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Yes Sir!! I was driving around with that Bnr S4 v2 and I was having a blast on a base tune. And I was all smiles knowing I was loving it already and I was still setting up to go bigger!!

    Thanks man! And Thanks For The Advice! I Appreciate You!

    I started running this on my old setup as a preventive measure. I read it was recommended to use T6 when going big turbo and no cats 3" DP. To combat smoking at idle.

    I wasn't sure what i should run. If that was still a issue.... I asked the builder and he said ideally we would be running a gen 2 dexos 40w so probably switching to that.

    I Appreciate You Bro!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 1, 2021
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Jul 28, 2020
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  5. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    Yes you really just want a gen 2 dexos oil as they are designed for DI cars which most modern oils do. 5w40 is the standard for most built motors due to tolerances. I have run both 5w30 and 5w40 on mine and I plan to go back to 5w40 on my next change as I liked the oil pressure more when it was hot hot.
     
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  6. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    Bang on! Tribodyn or royal purple are two of the go two Dexos II oils these days for our engines here's the UOA thread that's been consolidated, if you do oil analysis feel free to post it up there with the info on mileage etc once you swap.

    Also nice build.
    https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/best-engine-oil-all-mod-levels.7931/
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Jul 29, 2020
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  7. DualSpeed

    DualSpeed Greenie Member

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    Love the build!!
     
    DualSpeed, via a Samsung mobile device, Aug 3, 2020
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  8. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Well it will be no surprise this build is taking longer then I anticipated due to the covid. I ran into some challenges with this build But I love a challenge!!

    So here's the new car with my Broski as we dive in and get to getting this motor out of the new car:
    20200607_084223.jpg
    I'll take the help if its available lol.

    So here is the new motor from overspeed built to run 700hp with a X-clutch twin disk attached right out of the crate:
    20200623_173459.jpg

    Ok so the 1st hurdle I came across was the turbo kit I purchased from Edge Autosports was supposed to fit the speed 6. But the turbo drain kit wouldn't fit due to the speed 6 transfer case pictured here (sorry pictures are not very clear):
    20200624_184848.jpg

    So i contacted kosmic and was told that the line i got was not made for speed 6. And I contacted edge and sent them a picture from Eric Yarbrough on the facebook group selling the correct one just as a reference of what the correct one looks like and edge end up purchasing that one from Eric and sending it to me. Here's the new one installed:
    20200721_010615.jpg

    And that brings me to the next hurdle. The turbo was hitting the exhaust manifold stud and was preventing the turbo from sitting parallel to the motor like it needs to be. So if I would have connected the downpipe it would have been going towards the passenger rear tire. So my solution was to tighten the nut down on the stud and cut the nut in half also cutting the stud off. I put some thread lock on and it seems to have fixed the issue. Here is a few pictures:
    Anticipated .jpg
    So moving forward. The front bolt to the subframe was completely rusted on. So I tried heat, and I tried penetrating oil. But I end up snapping the bolt/nut off. I purchased a replacement but the bolt end up having some rust in it aswell and wouldn't come out and after trying everything a few different times and buying a implact gun with 1400 ftlbs of torque and didn't help. End up stripping the bolt despite my best efforts to not. So I reshaped the bolt heads flared base to a square and hammering a socket onto it just heating it the bolt few times over and over and working it back and forth and slowly working it out. Finally got it out!:
    20200819_190154.jpg 20200819_190034.jpg 20200831_100842.jpg
    So the map sensor would not mount to the ST Manifold. So I had to remove the metal ring from the mounting point on the map sensor. Here:
    20200729_000448.jpg
    20200803_191845.jpg 20200803_191924.jpg
    It's coming along.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2020
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 2, 2020
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  9. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    Ah yes. Looks like edge got you a eric Yarbrough drain for the 6. I'm running one on mine as well. And same deal with having to shave the bottom left bolt on the exhaust manifold with every precision turbo ive ever ran.


    Good progress!
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Sep 2, 2020
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  10. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Thanks Man!! Good to know that cutting the bolt is normal.
     
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 3, 2020
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  11. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Well, This is going to be my secondary daily driver. So I wanted it to be as reliable as possible! I mean we all do right? Lol! But I went the extra mile to try and make sure its a reliable build. So I replaced everything that was a possible fail point while switching everything from old car to new one. So moving forward I bought all these new for a fresh build:
    -PCV Valve
    -Water Pump
    -Idler Pulley
    -Serpentine Belt
    -Sparks Plugs
    -Belt Tensioner
    -Exhaust Nuts
    -Vacume Hose
    -Primary 02 Sensor
    -Crackshaft Position Sensor
    -Oil Pressure Sensor
    -Exhaust Manifold Gasket
    -Spin On Oil Filter Housing Gasket
    -3" Downpipe Gasket
    -Knock Sensor
    -Coil Packs
    -Throttle Body Gasket
    -Intake Manifold Gasket
    -(Ray's Mazda Parts-E85 Safe HPFP Rebuild Kit)
    -Starter Dust Sheild/Gasket
    -New OCC Hose
    -MAF O-ring
    -Full EGR Delete
    -Thermostat
    -BOV Gasket
    -Sealent To Reseal T-Case
    -EGR Plate Gasket
    -EGR Valve Gasket
    -VVT Silonide Seal
    -Valve Cover Seal
    -Sandwhich Plate Adapter Gasket
    -Driver Side Sure Motorsports Replacement Urathan


    Moving forward I resealed the T-case. And when I got into it. I found that the last time I resealed it after I put in the upgraded bearing caps I must have used a little too much sealant. There was pieces of sealant in the suction arm filter. Dualy noted (Use Less Sealant) Got It.. Here's a few pics: 20200530_190001.jpg
    20200530_184656.jpg
    20200530_184729.jpg
    20200530_182811.jpg
    20200530_180612.jpg
    20200530_175012.jpg
    20200530_174704.jpg

    While I was disassembling my old setup. I came across the HPFP bolts and they wouldn't budge. Ultimately they end up rounding off. I initially tried making a slot on top to use a screw driver but found out pretty quick it was too tight to lossen with a screw driver. So to move forward I end up grinding off the bolt heads on two of them. And i rebuilt the HPFP with the E85 safe O-ring Kit. Heres a few pictures:
    20200510_184154.jpg
    20200510_201742.jpg
    20200512_180056.jpg

    I bought some exhaust wrap and wrapped the downpipe and the EWG dump pipe. Looking Good! Heres a few pics: Screenshot_20200906-132313_Gallery.jpg

    I'll keep the updates coming...

    Just some pics I grabbed here and there showing progress.
    Here's the Sandwhich adapter I use to run front mount oil cooler
    20200530_150921.jpg


    Here's the new one engine out.
    20200607_124217.jpg

    Some Turbo Love
    20200723_181241.jpg


    Ok so here is the motor installed
    20200906_154312.jpg

    So i ordered my intercooler setup on 4/23/20 and I just now as of yesterday 9/5/20 after 3 different tries I finally got the correct Tr1035 core for the kit.

    1st time i received whole kit it had Tr8 core. And i ordered the Tr1035. Second time was just a month ago I received the Tr10. The vender was saying it was the Tr1035 but the mounting points were wrong. Then I was told that I would have to make a way for it to mount it because it didn't line up with the mounting points in the crash bar.

    After i contacted the owner it was corrected I sent the tr10 core back and I had to wait for treadstone to get cought up with back orders. So here's pictures of the crash bar, the Tr10 core and the Tr1035:
    Screenshot_20200906-155049_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20200906-155235_Gallery.jpg 20200905_012742.jpg
    Damn she's Sexy


    So moving forward I ran into a issue with the downpipe running into the alternator heat gaurd/ breathing port and was pressing hard so no way to get the heat gaurd in there. So i end up snapping it unintentionally. And somehow I got it to work. 20200906_155615.jpg
    20200805_132741.jpg

    So I am installing a few things listed here:
    -Viper 2 way remote start alarm with security
    -Split second controller
    -Gaurdian Angel
    -Wot Box
    -3 in 1 guage(boost/oil pressure/oil temp)
    -oil pressure guage with alarm
    -relays for alarm
    -Shift beep
    -E85 content sensor

    Each item is running on its own relay thats fused. I'm also doing a battery relocation to the trunk and running a second battery on a battery isolator for a audio system.
    IMG_20200721_224009_840.jpg
    Found these cheap battery wire kits with zero guage wire.

    So when I transfered everything over from the old car to the new one I choose to just take the entire front wheel hub assemblys including the lower control arms. Since I had upgraded rotors and brakes pads and brake lines. I also moved the adjustable upper ball joints over. So it was a faster switch. Maybe lol..

    Everything is already wired up in the cab. And in the engine bay. But still working on trunk. And audio system. 20200830_132139.jpg

    I'm shocked it will be done soon !!

    Stoked!!
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 1, 2021
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 6, 2020
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  12. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Diesel Slayer Silver Member

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    Wow man this is a lot of work and sounds like you have invested tons of time and money in this speed. Keep up the great work and I bet this thing is going to be insane!
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
    StreetSpeed6, via a mobile device, Sep 9, 2020
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  13. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Thanks Man!! It's been a Fun And Enjoying journey to get here!!! And I'm Stoked to be finally going all out! I've always wanted to fully build a car from top to bottom and I'm finally here! And yes It's going to be a Blast!!! And I Can't Wait!!!
     
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 15, 2020
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  14. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    When you install the wot box, want to make a write-up? We need one for the ms6 !

    Looking forward to seeing this thing running!
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Sep 18, 2020
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  15. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Diesel Slayer Silver Member

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    I second this as I am hoping to eventually run a wot box as well. @Raideris giving incentives for new threads as well im pretty sure!
     
    StreetSpeed6, via a mobile device, Sep 18, 2020
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  16. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    I'll be honest man. I was getting a little overwhelmed with all the wiring and By the time I thought about taking pictures to possibly make a write up or evan to add to the build thread, I was basically done and I was a little disappointed too. I wanted to make one and just got carried away lol.. I was thinking of grabbing a few pictures under the dash next time I'm under there but probably won't be making a write up. Sorry man.

    And Thanks Man I Can't Wait to Start This Beast Up Ethier!!!
     
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 20, 2020
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  17. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Well, I've been working away and making Great Progress!! But when things are going too smooth something always comes up...

    Well, My transmission in the original speed didn't have any issues. Except that the housing for the fill bolt broke and I had jb welded it and it was hold still when I got the roller. But since it was damaged goods I thought I'd just go with the transmission in the new one. When I drove the new one home I cycled thru all the gears and it was fine. And didnt apear to have any leaks. So moving forward i came out the day after filling transmission and T-case to find that the seal between the transmission and the T-case is leaking. ‍

    Well, shit I'm just glad it was before I pulled it out of garage and started leaking on drive way and right when I would have started breaking in new motor. That would have really got me mad... So right now I've pulled subframe and am about to pull intake also I have to get to coolant lines off T-case off. Already got new seal. I am frustrated that all the T-case and trans fluid is wasted before it evan saw one mile but shit happen!!!


    So I saw "Mazdaspeed Wire Tuck" has officially stepped down. So I've been working on making my own wire tuck. And I'm buying the supplys to make like 20 more wire tuck harnesses. So here is my 1st one.... I'm waiting for a few plugs to come in mail still but this is without plugs but has Pi(split second controller) and Wot Box plugs ready to go. Looks Pretty Dang Good!!! if I say so myself!!!
    20200919_122914.jpg
    20200919_100503.jpg 20200919_082951.jpg


    I've been wiring the trunk for the both batteries and i'll grab a photo tomorrow.

    Good day! I Said Good Day!!!
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 20, 2020
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  18. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Sorry man I got cought up with making sure I didn't miss anything and getting overwhelmed there is soo many wires. Lol
     
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 20, 2020
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  19. Juschiln19

    Juschiln19 Greenie Member

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    Well I was going to buy a hellcat fuel pump pre-made from Dirty water racing but they stopped making them for now. So i made a attempt to make one but didn't realize how brittle the plastic was going to be and I went to drill a hole and it busted like 1/3 the housing. So it didn't work out. I was going to try and make it work but I just came across a cheap fuel basket so I'm going to redo the fuel pump....

    It will be here next week..
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2020
    Juschiln19, via a Samsung mobile device, Sep 20, 2020
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  20. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Diesel Slayer Silver Member

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    Not screwing it up is much more important than attempting a how to post lol
     
    StreetSpeed6, via a mobile device, Sep 20, 2020
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