StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

Oh ok gotcha. Idk I hate to pull my oil pan again but maybe finding out if the 4th oil squirter is MIA or still on the block would be a good start. If it is missing then that could be the issue but idk where something that big would just go lol

 

I would look into those piston squirters as an internal hemorrhage. They would be a metered orifice, that is no longer metered.

 

Well true if the base where they were bolted on was gone but instead the straw looking part broke off but the hole in the base of the squirter is still the same size so should be same pressure but just terrible aim lol

 

Have a close look at them. Do you have a oil pressure hard gauge you can install, so you know true oil pressure. You need to know what idle pressure is, and if it climbs, and how fast with rpm. Go easy on your engine right now, you don't want to hurt it. It really sounds like it's starving for oil.

 

I don't but I need one really bad. I am hoping to get ahold of one soon and throw it in though. I have a triple pillar pod with some gauges in it but 2 of them I don't really need basically. The boost guage I like to have and I would like to eventually have a wideband and an oil pressure gauge. Anyone got one laying around?

 

What I mean is a test gage, probably borrow or rent one from an autoparts store. Remove the oil pressure sending unit, and screw it in there. If you have a long enough hose, you can run it up to the base of the windshield. Then you can see it from the driver's seat.

 

I see what u mean now. I already have a setup for an oil temp sensor so would probably be just as easy to hook up the gauge to where thst goes and see what it says. I am currently wrenching on my grandma's buick so won't be able to yet but I will give an update when I get the gauge figured out.

 

****UPDATE***
After doing my new vvt and still hearing a noise my car has ran as good as ever nonetheless. Within the last week it has stopped making the noises and I have no idea why but am glad it has. I am currently waiting on a few things and will be installing the cst4 and 3.5" intake. I should be receiving my oil pressure gauge on Friday and it will be replacing the oil temp sensor in my triple pillar pod. Tried a $50 amazon gauge that looked good but would read max value even with the car off no matter how I wired it.

I decided to take an experimental risk and try out the xs power style exhaust manifold on amazon. They replied to my question of its hp limits and said it would support a max of 500whp. It has a 44mm ewg vband setup that will be great if I switch to using one with my cst4 ever. I will update with pics and quality of the product when I get it this weekend hopefully. LETS SEND IT TO THE MOoOoon lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08CKGLM6F?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

 

Still awaiting my manifold as apparently paying for expedited shipping doesn't make it faster but slower. Somewhat frustrated I contacted the seller and they gave me $20 back off the manifold for the troubles lol

Anyway I got my new glowshift oil pressure gauge and it is working great and seems to be fairly accurate I would say. My oil pressure was probably 5-10psi lower than what I would want though so I am going to give a heavier weight oil a try. The longer my car ran and warmed up the lower it got compared to cold. Cold start pressure was around 40-50.

Seems to run anywhere from 30-60psi and 100% warmed up it was like 15psi @ idle with 5w30.

I purchased some 5w40 and will see where that gets me after the new turbo is in. Thursday/Friday seems to be the big install day according to me receiving my exhaust mani that day. CAN'T WAIT!!!

 

You have spare studs/nuts laying around? One of them is bound to not want to separate.

 

I actually was just trying to find the cheapest place to buy some spares. Does anyone know the thread pitch?

 

M10x1.50 AFAIR

 

CST4 IS IN FAM

Took it for a first drive after getting all the coolant burped out and watching all the crap burn off everything from the install lol Can't wait to start tuning and see what it can make! I will be reviewing the amazon manifold and giving my view and tips on installing the cst4.

The car seems to be running great just from my short drive with only 3psi of boost (haven't done a maf cal on my intake yet). Lets see what thing can do! Thanks again @mangosmoothie for the hookup on the turbskie! @Raider where should I put my manifold review?

 

Nice! Post a review up in official parts reviews.

 

Did your check valve always be behind the evap purge valve. Usually they are in front to stop boost being directed to the purge valve.

 

That is how it has always been but had an evap code for a good while now so maybe that is my issue. Thanks man I will check into that as I didn't honestly know what that other thing was that was in-line with the evap solenoid lol Good catch!

 

100% should be flipped around.

 

I will turn it around thanks for confirming. Hopefully fixes my evap code!

 

I am going to have to buy some new rims before long because these old chrome wheels are having trouble holding air. If anyone has used wheels or suggestions for semi-cheap spoke style wheels let me know. I am wanting to try and run 18x8.5" +35 as I have 18x7.5" +35 now and they have a bit further out before even being to the fender edge. I will most likely keep my 215/40/18 but would not mind 225/40/18 if I could get away with it. Something like this is what I like

https://nlmotoring.com/product/whee...-20-18x8-5-hyper-black-wheels-av2018855h33hb/

 

It looks like yours is around the wrong way as well, you may want to pull it off and make sure you can only blow through one side only. The side you can blow through ( pretty sure the light colored side) need to point to the purge valve and black side to intake mani so when purge valve opens it lets it through that check valve to let the vapors into the intake mani to burn.

Also check the purge valve as it has been getting boost pushed into it with the check valve not there to protect it and make sure it's not damaged by blowing into both ways. It should be closed and hard to blow through.

Yours looks like the check valve is wrong way around and would be blocking any vapors getting to the purge valve to release the pressure from the fuel tank. Car will probably run way better as well.

I only recently became friends with my evap system to learn what it does after my last drag strip rip. When the car was warm and i then start it , it would stumble at idle for a bit and a raw fuel smell, fuel trims were off and it didn't feel as responsive.
Tracked it down to that check valve and purge solenoid. Turns out the check vavle can only protect so much. 38psi of boost destroyed it and then hammered the purge valve as well which was allowing pressure to travel ether way through them at will lol.