Oil leak

Tried removing the crankshaft pulley and failed! My 800 ft.lb husky air impact couldn't do it.

A few places I searched online said an impact above 500 ft.lb should do it, maybe my unit is defective. Debating picking up something more robust. Or maybe I should just lockup the crank on the flywheel side and use a breaker and pipe on the bolt.

 

Are you sure you’re actually getting 800ft lbs? If you’re in the mood for a new tool, I’d recommend the Harbor Freight Bauer ‘Extreme Torque Impact Wrench’ (corded). It’s $90 as of this post. For the cost that thing is very powerful.

In the past I used a crank pulley holder and a breaker bar. I think I even had to push the breaker bar with my legs because of the awkward angle

 

I'm thinking I might not be, but have no way of verifying. I'm running at correct psi and correct scfm. I was looking at some bigger 3/4 air impacts but they run at 9scfm and the small compressor I borrowed runs at 4. I would have to borrow a bigger one.

Let me check out the one you are talking about. Because those bigger air impacts get pricey. Thanks!

 

Use a map gas torch to heat the area right behind the crank bolt. It doesn't have to be cherry red but some good heat will help break the bolt free.

 

Thanks for sharing this


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Sorry I am so late getting in here. With that much going past the injector seals it looks like torque would have been on the low end of things or maybe seating when installed. If there was a mechanical failure, one got dropped or deformed you would see a problem in 1 hole and the others would have been fine.

-Derrick

 

That makes sense clean surface and appropriate torque is key.

 

Yeah, it really is weird that they failed. I know the mating surfaces were clean and I know I torqued everything to spec. I am very meticulous when it comes to these things. It is what it is though, looks like I will finally be able to justify the build I have been wanting to do.


Looks like I found where that one piece of metal came from that was hanging out in my oil pan.

And the Bauer extreme torque impact worked great! I paired it with a harmonic balancer removal socket and it came out like butter!

 

So dirty. On initial review though the cylinder wall looks better than I expected. Need to start cleaning parts and really calling around to find a machine shop.

 

No carnage, just a bunch of dirty parts. So what do y'all think, was there a ton of oil getting past the rings??

I kind of expected the rod bearings to be thinner....

Only thing left for a bare block is removing the girdle and the crank, but it's fighting. And I'm tired. Do y'all have a preferred method to get it to come off? I'm going to have another go at it tomorrow.

 

Almost done cleaning. Probably won't make much more progress until the new year. Right now debating whether to do just a mild build on this block or to put back together with a new oem short block and rebuilt head. That would give me more time to go ahead and go all in with this block and still be able to drive the car.