Clutch bleed simple

After wasting away 3 days trying to bleed a clutch. Here is the moment I figured out what was wrong…..
Gravity bleed, pressure bleed, or using a friend to pump the clutch will not do you any good if the car is not level. After many hours of cussing out anything and everything, I finally decided to remove the battery box again after I just change out the master cylinder to attempt to bleed from the bottom of the master cylinder. I kept adding fluid between pumps and was getting little flow thru. Even thou the reservoir was full, the back end where it feed the clutch line was lower than then the flow tube. I had my car jacked up from the driver side to have alittle more access and by doing so it tilted the reservoir to an air bubble. Once I lowered the car back down to level, it literally only took 3 openings of the bleeder valve to be back at 100%. My method was pump the clutch pedal about 5 times and leave it against the firewall. Then I use a hand vacuum pump from harbor freight ($25) to build 15-20psi and then with one hand manually force close the slave cylinder and then using 9mm with the other hand to open the bleeder. After each cycle, I would make sure to top off the reservoir. On the third round the pedal was to stiff to stick to the floor so I just left it up. I’ve read to many posts of people having problems with this and wanted to share my experience.

 

That's a wall of text and way to complicated, yes car needs to be level no kidding.

it's easy;
1) overfill the brake fluid res so that the clutch chamber is filled keep - there's two in there one for the brakes one for the clutch but the clutch part in the back only fills up when the brake is at max or really over filled in my experience
2) follow normal pump / bleed of clutch procedure ENSURE that the CLUTCh reservoir is topped up throughout by not letting that brake fluid drop to much below the max line
3) suck excess fluid out of brake res with your mom's favorite Turkey baster and put the lid back on

4) just use a power bleeder and do it solo

 

I’m not meaning to contradict you, but when I was replacing the transmission in my daughter’s Mini (putting a Cooper S transmission into a standard Cooper) I had to bleed the clutch. I got a power bleeder because everyone said you needed one for the Mini.

I just couldn’t get it to bleed properly. I tried multiple times and afterwards the pedal would always go soft, so I ended up just using the pedal pumping method with the help of someone else and it was good.

I really wanted to like the power bleeder…

 

Fair not for everyone, I have used one of the vacuum ones that you hook to an air line and find them trash myself, have you tried something like this?

Genesis Technologies Brake Fluid Bleeder Bundle Featuring Motive Products 0100 European Power Bleeder with Cable Mount Bleeder Bottle https://a.co/d/2xfSEM5
Edit link may he funky?

 

^---This is the way!!!

If you still have problems, you may have to crack the connection on the driver's frame rail where the hardline goes to flex, bleed to that point. Then continue bleeding at the slave. The clutch master has such a short throw and fluid volume, it had troubles pushing enough fluid to bleed at the end point.

 

Yes that’s the same one I got. Well, actually this is the one I got (seems like same model):

https://a.co/d/b4GZAJz

I’m hoping I can use it for brake bleeding at some point. Seems like it should work perfectly.

 

My normal bleeding procedure was also long and tedious. With the vacuum style (through bleed nipple) if threads are dry use some grease to help seal air leaks helps pull more vacuum through slave cylinder. Also while in bleeding operation a slight, VERY slight pedal movement (finger tap) to dislodge any air pockets and allow it to flow through system. A check valve exists in master cylinder to keep reverse fluid flow from cylinder back into master reservoir. Also have plenty of makeup brake fluid!!!!

 

I believe I'm stuck in this hell right now after replacing my slave clutch cylinder and master clutch cylinder. I can sorta build up some pressure in the clutch where it's not totally sticking to the floor, but I can't get the car into any gear when I have it turned on. I'm worried I still haven't properly bled the system.

I've seen you mention this a number of times "crack the connection where the hardline goes to flex, bleed to that point" .. would you explain what this means and/or how you do this?

I only removed the hardline connector from the old master clutch cylinder and re-connected it after I got the new master installed. I know where that hard line bends and then goes back into a flexible line, so I'm assuming thats where I could "crack the connection" but how would I bleed from there with just an open end of the hardline?

Sorry for my ignorance, I'm only familiar with the bleeder valve on the slave clutch cylinder..

 

Follow the line from the clutch master to the front frame rail. There will be a connection where the hardline goes to a flex line. If you havent replaced the flex line with a braided stainless line I suggest you consider it.
With your master reservoir full to the max, have someone apply pressure to the clutch pedal and crack that fitting. Close it up when the fluid stops flowing out...just like manually bleeding brakes. Release the pedal (pull it up manually) and repeat 3-4 times. Once you are confident the line is free from air, bleed at the slave cylinder as you would normally.

Dont forget to check your clutch pedal bracket for cracks, You might be required to remove the bracket to get a good look at it. Also check the firewall for cracking or movement around the bracket mounting point.

 

I'm hoping my bracket isn't cracked, I've already had it all the way out and was finally able to get it back in .. I did not inspect it closely :/

My hard line from the master cylinder looks a bit different than your picture. Trying to attach pics -- my hardline comes out of the master clutch cylinder, goes down and then a right hand turn towards the center of the car where it bends back up and then has a connection to a short flexible hose underneath the battery box, that flexible hose has another connection point to a hard line that I assume goes to the slave clutch cylinder.

Like I said, I've never bled a brake or clutch system without using a bleeder screw .. so I assume you're saying disconnect the hard line from the flexible line and then do the pumping the clutch procedure .. how do I ensure I'm not letting more air into the system when disconnecting those lines?
Do I keep the two ends submerged under fluid after disconnecting them, do the clutch pumping, watch for bubbles, cross my fingers, hoping for the clutch to tighten up? and then un-submerging and reconnecting as fast as possible?

Thank you so much for trying to help this noob

 

Do not disconnect the line, just loosen it enough to allow the pressure to bleed out, then close it before air can get back in. A bleeder screw is just a way to relieve pressure and air. You dont remove bleeder screws either, just loosen and tighten them. Same process.

Also, have a couple cans of brake cleaner to hose down anywhere brake fluid got on anything.

 

Thank you again.. I don't think I can do that with my set up, I removed the section I tried to shows pictures so I could inspect it . Here's what my hardline to flexline looks like .. both of the ends here have the retainer clip that you have to pull up to release so the connector can pull out .. nothing to unscrew, maybe I could replace this section with something new that gives me the ability to bleed near this point

 

I believe the Speed3 guys with that setup use a vacuum bleeder. I think that is the only way.

In the end I had the same problem. No good bleed but not from trying hard. Ended up being the bracket...thats my picture of a cracked bracket not just a file photo.