Meth solenoid questions

So I have a AIS meth kit with just a boost pressure switch and a relay for the control. It's set up just like the attached picture.

I bought a snow performance solenoid to help get better response/control out of the system.

I have 2 questions: first, how close to the nozzles do I need to mount the solenoid? I have a good spot over by the driver side frame rail under my intake filter, but I don't know if that's too far.

Second question, does anyone have a good diagram of the best way to hook this up? This kit didn't come with instructions and I want to make sure I'm making the switch to a solenoid correctly.

Thanks in advance.

 

I have mine ~6in from the nozzles. Everyone at the time told me the closer the better, and 6" seemed reasonable.

I mounted mine on the flat tab thing, to the left of the intake filter, if looking from front of car.

I've run it this way for a few years now without issue. I'll look at your diagram when I get home. my controller has a trigger line when the low boost set point is triggered (if I recall correctly), so you would want it to open when the boost switch opens.

 

I had my solenoid as close to the "T" fitting I used to split to two nozzles, as possible. It was an inch and a half or so before the T, and the nozzles were a few inches past that.

When I had a boost pressure switch as the controller with the solenoid, I wired it according the the CM instructions that I've attached. This should work for you, I assume these boost switches are all similar if not the exact same.

 

Thanks for the reply guys. Looks like my mounting location might be a little bit too far away then. I will have to see what I can do about mounting it closer once I get my new manifold on

 

Yeah you want the solenoid as close as possible to the nozzles. Also, soleniods are non-polar so either or can be positive or negative. So 1 wire to ground (doesn't matter which) and 1 wire to a trigger.

Also, I'm not entirely sure how you have your relay wired, but I'm guessing that you have it where the switched power goes to the pump to turn it on. In that case I would likely tap the pump power for the solenoid.

 

Looks like where I planned to mount it is only about 16" away. That doesn't seem too bad.

New question, check valve? Just remove it? After the solenoid but before the T?

 

Checkvalve + solenoid is kind of redundant. I'd ditch it.

 

I have mine sitting about 14" away. From the reading I did people did say to put it as close as possible but that is all relevant to the situation. 14" is close compared to mounting it in the trunk in my opinion.


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I have mine mounted inside the fresh air tube. I would add a picture but it crashes tappa.

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I have a meth kit in route now for a March install. Do I really need the solenoid? I'll be spraying 100% for Auxiliary fueling to push the built motor GT3071.

 

I went solenoid because I mounted my tank and pump in the trunk.


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I'm mounting mine in the hatch also. Guess there's something else I need to read up on now.

 

You will need a solenoid then.


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Thanks, going to buy one then just to be safe. Already have an AEM Failsafe installed to watch over everything.

 

I ran mine from the trunk without a solenoid, but with a check. It works, is it the best? No. But it worked for a year

 

Check Valve comes with the kit I bought, friend has the same kit and hasn't had any issues but I've spent too much money on this built motor to not spend $60 more for peace of mind.

 

That's why I have one now

 

Solenoid all the things.

 

I have a fender mounted tank so a solenoid is more than enough for me. I kinda had to piece my kit since I had issues with nozzle fitment and allowing the plate to seal up to the intake manifold.

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The Check Valve is going to stop syphoning. By putting the solenoid near the nozzle with a check valve is kind of redundant. TBH you are suppose to put the solenoid between the PUMP and the TANK. It's main purpose is to be a backup to the check valve if it fails. As far as wiring is concerned you can literally piggy back the pump wires to the solenoid.

Side note always check the boost switch when under the hood..... Mine got stuck in the on position after a WOT pull since it was dirty. Good think I put the relay thru a switch mounted by my leg to shut the pump down. You can clean it with MAF cleaner or electric parts cleaner.