Slave Cylinder Leak Fix

I will be updating this in a few series of tests.

Situation:

New Slave Cylinder failed in traffic suddenly. How did I know? My clutch was on the floor and I could not engage the gears especially 1st. How did I verify? I pushed my car out off traffic and checked under my hood and looked under my hood and fluid all over my skid plate and fan. Lifted my car and dripping from the slave where the slave cylinder and pipe seal meets. The clutch was pressed and fluid was going in all directions of that area. The retainer clip was still fixed and not moving. It was rather a bad slave (even though it was 4 months old) or bad slave cylinder pipe line seal.

After getting towed home, I lifted my car and did my inspection. I checked the retainer clip then the pipe seal. It was still good. I removed the slave cylinder and matched it up to my older slave cylinder that I saved. I didn't notice anything right way but with a detailed study, I noticed that my older slave cylinder had an engraved number 10 and the new one had a 16. I did research and found out Mazda same out with 3 different (or so) slaves as well as pipe lines. With that, I thought I had to get a new pipe line because you can not buy the seal by itself. I removed both o rings and they were completely different in design and what made it worse that it doesn't seat correctly it you decided to switch the o rings.

Conclusion, I cut 1/4 of the old seal off and seated it over the pipe seal first then seated it inside the slave. Of course I did many different troubleshooting techniques before this but as of now rather bleeding the clutch about 7 times, no leaks and no movement. Tomorrow, I will bleed it a few more times to get a little more stiffness then I will take it for test run. I will also upload photos of what I did and follow up with you in 5 days then 10 days then 15 days with visual updates. If this is a permanent fix, this would be great for all those that will be having this problem and those that had this problem and ended up installing a matching pipeline or dropping off their Speed at the stealaship.

 

I look forward to the results. Glad your taking the time to dot this.

Do we know the different part numbers so we can lay out what revision each part number is?
This was my old one,



This is my new one

Hope the new one is the most recent revision.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

In summary, the o rings or seal inside the slave cylinders were different




I cut a 1/4 of it off and set it over the pipe seal and pushed it in and seated the retainer clip.



Early this morning, I got some crc brake cleaner and electrical cleaner to clean up the area along with scrubbing the fluid off my aluminum skid plate. Because some fluid squirting in the fan and some minor spills around the reservoir, after taking the car off jacks and warming it up, some fluid some coming down from the sides but the connection area of the pipe and cylinder was clean with no leaks. Took it for a test run for about 10 minutes and everything seems to be good. When I parked up, I checked again and no leaks. Tomorrow, I will do a longer run test (time and distance) then inspect.
[doublepost=1488058160][/doublepost]

I saw the number different. I also saw versions as well on the side


The crazy thing is that the insides were somewhat the same

Below is the new seal



this is the old. now tell me my visual which is more trusting



I googled a few different situations people were having and it was all over the place. Some people ended up purchased the revision slave cylinder pipe seal but the is about $75 for something that is not broken.
[doublepost=1488058619][/doublepost]This is what's different on the new model. The new one comes with a different seal

Old one

new one


The tips are different. It looks like it comes with an oring that connects perfectly to the new one

 

Day 3 of testing. I will be driving about 10 miles or more on roads with speed limits of 15, 25, 35, 45, 55, and 65. Of course, I will be going a little faster I'm going to pack all the tools I need just in case
[doublepost=1488126068][/doublepost]Got to my destination with zero issues. I have to bleed my clutch a little more. It's a tad bit softer than my usual. Maybe I should make the wife bleed it and I depress the clutch...lol.

When through a 15, 25, 35, 40, 45, 55 and 65 area (of course i was driving faster). At regular driving, zeri issues. When i get back in, I'll take photos of the cylinder area to verify no movement of the clip, pipe etc. Ad mentioned above, I will continue this test for the week with regular driving. Reservoir still full and nothing visible from top view on my skid plate.
[doublepost=1488131898][/doublepost]Got back home. My inspection results...no leaks...no signs on force or friction. I even did a WOT log twice for Hypnotic.
[doublepost=1488132160][/doublepost]video added

 

So, I bled the slave 2 told for a little more stiffness. Still no leaks. I test drove it around the block and still good. The gears are engaging normally. I am going to hit the highway in a few and purposely put myself in some traffic and see what happens. After inspection for leaks and more, I believe I should be good. I will continue inspecting for the next 2 weeks the same way minus bleed the clutch

 

The circle with the number is a date code if I'm not mistaken. Basically the year it was made

 

Test drove it in traffic (20 min stop and go) and then some highly (55-70) and no issues. After driving inspection was good. No leaks. I will do the same test tomorrow
[doublepost=1488427234][/doublepost]

You might just be right

 

Some more stop and go traffic on hills and highway alone with regular highway driving. No issues. I will take off the skid plate tomorrow and take some photos after driving.

 

Another test drive today in stop and go traffic and all good no leaks. I did a inspection from the top looking down into the hood around the slave and fan..along with the skidplate and no signs. Later this coming week, I will go for another drive then take off my plate and take some photos.

 

Still doing regular driving and good to go. I promise i will take some photos next week

 

#2weeks

 

I'm trying not to be CS...lol

 

Good

 

It's been busy. By Friday, I will have photos. Pu still driving good.

 

That's probably it, and the dots around the edge probably denote revisions within the year. Or else the dots are for months. This kind of punch-mark is a pretty common way of marking something on die castings.

It seems less likely here but another common possibility for that sort of marking is a cavity number. It would be unusual for a die casting to be more than 4 cavities. However, cavities for that process have a fairly limited lifetime and often have to replaced after a year or two of production so it wouldn't be extremely surprising to be up to 10 or 16 cavities. This is not unlike date code wheels used on plastic parts:
http://avantech.com/shop/date_code_wheels.shtml
http://dme.net/mdi
but you can't use those on die castings, so something coarser suffices.

 

Here are the photos. I took them today since I was doing my oil change. Everything is intact. Everything is secure and no signs of leaks anywhere. I used brake cleaner initially and it still looks good.

 

Update: It's still holding. No leaks no nothing

 

Good stuff. Ive gone thru 3 slave cylinders in the past few years, with the last one failing like described in the OP. Replaced both the line and slave with lastest revision from mazda and all has been well so far(knock on wood)

 

That's good to know. Earlier today, there was a big back and forth about how this is impossible etc and that it might not be a genuine oem part but it was cool to see other people experiencing the same issues but I couldn't keep buying a new one but you are right...the oem line and slave should be good as long as it's the version two.

 

Update: Still running strong with no leaks or other issues.