VoodooShark's V2 Buttz Build

Good luck dude. It should be pretty nice

 

I'm rocking the TMIC for as long as possible.

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On a recommendation to delete SWAS to fix and AFR issue I was having, I did the ol` switch in the blue wire trick. It worked. Again, I do NOT tout these as gospel, but it`s usually pretty close, and I`m pretty happy at this point (still some fine tuning to do to get the numbers just right but it`s getting there):

 

Looking good! I have much to look forward to. If it stops raining tomorrow, I'll find out if the tuner fixed my fuel cut issue. If he did, I'll be off to the e station soon!

 

well....something is definitely awry. Ripped a 4.7 60-100 time and the pull felt great so I ran VDyno when I got home. Here`s the result:



It was pulling like a freight train, but I can`t say it was pulling like 494whp. At the same time, the RPM and Vehicle Speed curves are VERY linear (not a sign of clutch slipping). I mean, seriously, where would another 100hp have come from? I`m sure there`s some explanation, but it`s fun to look at :-D

 

Might be slipping tires or clutch. Your torque is past the edge of what's safe on stock block and clutch.

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Oh I know man. Once I have an accurate, real number I`ll probably work on flipping the tq and hp numbers to get tq down to around 380 if it`s actually above that. I`ve got an engine sitting at the shop getting built as we speak, and it`s getting a new clutch as well when the engine goes in.

 

Clutch is my guess. Torque actually tends to descend some toward redline, depending on the tune and turbo, and I know that PSSes are good. I only have 390whp and run a 4.6-second 60-100. I think something went wacky with your graph--something about the way it looks.

 

I`m gonna guess a road anomaly (a rise/dip in the road). I graphed rpm and speed and it did the exact opposite of what clutch slippage would have. A slight dip in rpm, very brief and no perceptible change in vehicle speed. I recall encountering said road inconsistency as it`s right about where I let off the gas.

 

Also, some GREAT news regarding my engine health:

"JEFF: This sample looks very nice! This sample of Mobil 1 still tested within the 5W/30 range. No fuel
dilution, water, or other contamination was found, and wear numbers look very nice compared to averages,
which, we should note, are based on just under 5,000 miles on the oil. So you're running longer than
average and getting average or better wear -- that's fantastic. You should be fine to try 10,000 miles on the
next sample. It looks like the engine and the oil should hold up just fine. Nice report!"

 

As far as I`m concerned, the tune is finished....for now. Put up an average of 406/365 (out of four pulls. High was 414, low was 397) with the top mount. There may be a few HP hiding in there but it`s out of fuel so the AFR sacrifice just isn`t worth it for a DD car. I *might* pick up a few HP when I swap the intercooler tomorrow, but it won`t be dramatic. It was brought up to go to an even bigger methanol nozzle if I wanted to chase more power, as with enough fuel we could run the tq at 360 to redline and it would support 450hp at the same time just for fun. Might do it just to see where we can get before stuff starts looking scary again LOL, but I`m glad to be at (more or less) a stopping point.

The short version:
S4v2, CNT DP w/ Magnaflow CBE, 3" JBR intake, and a CPe TMIC got me over 400hp with 12gph of methanol.

She feels super strong, pulls wicked hard in 4th all the way to redline (that hp curve is flat from like 5K to redline). It`s been a mild build, nothing too complicated or particularly unique. It`s fun to drive and gets 23mpg driving it hard and E85 mix in the tank. I`m calling it a win, and the turbo is nowhere near maxed. Not even remotely close.
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Solid, safe #s, man. You'll make a good deal more in the winter too, with increased oxygen density, depending on how Justin set the load caps. Good place to be until you go all-out. What were your IDCs?

 

Looks good Jef. Thanks for sharing!

 

Just a small twist in the plot:
In talking with a tuner about fuel and whatnot, we entertained the idea of nearly doubling the methanol delivery (12gph to 20). That would be enough fuel to run 350wtq to redline, which would support 460whp lol. Yes, really. Would it actually MAKE 460? probably not. But...I am going to up the methanol to 19gph so we can keep the boost up all the way to redline (vs the subtle but necessary taper we`re running now). It`s hardly an expense at less than $50 in parts and 20 minutes` worth of work so what the hell.

 

Excited for results, logs, graphs, or whatever else you post up

I'm probably going to stick to 2 CM12s when the time comes. According to Cooling Mist, beyond that point, the atomization of the mist really starts going to crap. Original plan was maybe 3 CM10s. The workaround is a second pump. As flow increases, pressure lowers. Plus, you have to subtract your boost pressure too. 200psi spraying into a system pressurized to 25psi will start at only 175psi before the actual amount you're flowing drops operating pressure even more. My goal is to stay over 100psi operating pressure at max boost level.

 

I am now in the same boat. Can you explain how you accomplished this or point me to a good how-to? Or did that adjustment not work, and the replacement actuator was necessary?

 

It`s easiest done from under the car and takes about 15 minutes. Get the front high enough to have a little bit of room under there and slide underneath. Look up at the back side of the motor and you`ll see the turbo sitting right there staring at you. There`s a small E clip holding the WG actuator arm onto the flapper itself. Remove that (and be prepared to have another handy. You WILL drop it), then crack the lock nut with a 10mm wrench. With the actuator arm off, turn it forward to shorten it (more preload) or backward to lengthen it (less preload). One full turn should be plenty. Get the WG arm back onto the pin on the flapper, put the E clip back on, snug the lock nut and you`re done.

You can do it from the top, but you end up having to do most of it blind by feel alone and it just sucks. It`s so easy from the bottom you`d kick yourself for not doing it that way first. If you get it turned out a bit and still hitting way too much boost, just call Bryan and BNR and he`ll send you a new actuator, which is about a 20 minute swap. Ask him for an S3 actuator. My S4 WGA cracks at 21, fully open at 24. The S3 cracks at 16. They`re the exact same size, just a different spring.

 

So.

Without the story, car goes to the shop tomorrow to get the motor built. Yes, it was more or less planned. Not doing anything too extreme still, just Manley rods and yes, I did decide on the SP63 4032 pistons. I knew I wanted 4032 for longevity (i do take the occasional 3K mile road trip), and with my power goals, the 4032s will have zero trouble taking it.

The "unicorn number" will be 465hp/425tq. That will put me in a fairly small group of Speed 3 owners while affording every expectation of reliability. Not much will change with the setup with the exception of an exhaust manifold.

Oh, and I`ll be converting all of my methanol lines to AN braided. If it tunes to the numbers fairly moderately i`ll stay with everything as is. If it`s too close to the edge I`ll jump on a PI solution of some sort, but that`s not in the cards right now. The only thing that`s on the radar that`s even moderately "exotic" is converting to EWG. Not for any reason other than kicks.

 

Super excited because of your piston choice, Jef. I'd love to have your ear for a chat after you've been driving on them for a while. There's very little practical use of that alloy on our platform, but it has been highly successful on many others.

Just FYI, Justin told me that a typical methanol pump can support 600-650whp in his experience. But that's a crapton of methanol, and flowing that much without a big tank can be a PITB, you know? I'm going to see where two CM12s will land me. The catch-22 is the more you flow, the more atomization suffers. My goal is to stay above an operating pressure of 100psi for good atomization.

 

I`ve got a 12gph nozzle and a 7gph nozzle. More than average, less than extreme. Plenty to support the goal.

I like the idea of a 2618 piston, and if this wasn`t my DD I`d be all over those but the 4032 will easily support where I`m headed without a whimper and the lifespan is, and I quote "significantly longer". Nothing whatsoever wrong with overbuilding an engine, this is just a case where I`ll be only 80% of the potential vs 50%, yet double the lifespan.