Replacement CV Boot

Has anyone used one of those replacement CV boots? The ones that you glue together and slip over CV without removing the entire axle?
Example:
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/...=productInformation&partCode=0996b43f80a012d9

I got a hole in the boot of my DTA axle that's less than 1 year old. I'd prefer to fix this without having to buy a 3rd axle and spend an afternoon replacing it.
But I also don't want to buy a boot that's going to come apart on me at the track and make the situation worse.

 

Interested as well.

 

How are those dta axles working for you on the track ?

 

I have DTA axle on the driver side. It's been on there for about a year. I have done a few passes drag racing, road course, and aggressive driving from time to time. They are holding up good. I feel confident going to into the dragon with it.

 

The axle itself has been fine. I've had no problems, no noises, nothing, which is all good things. And the grease that's coating the entire inner surface of my rim looks nice and thick and slippery
I'm also not pushing far above stock power levels (tune, intake, in-tank e85, test pipe) so it's not like I'm running a 500hp setup.
The only thing I didn't like, which is going to be a problem soon, is that the inner joint is only held together by the boot. The OEM axle has some type of retainer in there, so when you remove it from the tranny you can just yank on the axle itself. For the DTA I'll need to get a slide hammer or appropriate pry bar.

 

What did you end up doing, i got a torn boot too on a dta axle that is 2 months old

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Because I have another track day on 5/8, and have limited time to work on the car (f'n kids), I just spent the $140 for a new one. Once that's in I'll work on buying a new boot for the DTA and OEM axles and replacing them. I know I can swap an axle in a few hours; God knows how long it'd take me to replace a boot.

 

Extreme example but here's my DTA axle after a 5200rpm dead hook on an NT01 lol

Up until this they made no strange noises and put plenty of power down to the ground for me with no issues.

 

Ooof. The shock loads at the drag strip are a whole different category from spirited and road track runs. I think you're the only person that's ever posted a DTA fail. The only other fails I've seen have been other brands of axles that were clearly selling MZ3 axles as MS3.

 

I can't tell you if these will work for the DTA axles, but here are the Mazda P/N's for CV boots:

Inner Boots: GG64-22-540, List Price $69.10
Outer Boots: GG64-22-530, List Price $114.51

The part numbers are the same, regardless of L or R side axle.

They contain the boot, all clips & clamps, and grease. You'll need an oetiker clamp tool to install the new boot clamps. I've done both the inner and outer on my OE axles before, and it's not too bad.

 

@silvapain . When you and I were pulling the drivers axle on my car, the boot ended up getting a bit of a rip in it. Not gonna lie, Wetz had some black rtv laying around. Sealed that bitch up like a champ. It held until my motor blew and while taking the whole thing apart again. I wouldnt say its the best fix in the world, but if you are in a pinch...

 

Hi I am in OC and I would like to know how do you disassemble Mazda 3 2.0L CV Axle driving side ? I have boot off and I don’t see anything that hold’s those 3 axle bearings. So how do you disassemble?