Wheel and Tire Fitment Database

Alright guys,

I'm sure a bunch of us have seen the thread on the other forum "Will They Fit". The original thread by @djohns is HERE. It's has a ton of good info in it, so make sure to check that out first. The info in that thread is great, but it's a bit spread out and I'd like to get a nice concise list of peoples experiences with certain wheels/tires/suspension setups. You can post questions about fitment, pictures of current setups, or information on current/past setups that you've run. If you're going to submit info to be added to the OP the format should be: Model/Year, Wheel specs, Tire specs, Suspension info, and any info on rubbing or adjustments that needed to be made for fitment. Any optional measurement info related to clearances and suspension are welcome too! I won't add anything to the OP that doesn't have all of the info, so make sure you get all of it in there so we can get a nice list going!

Spoiler: Generic Fitment Info For Nubs:

Genpu:

2010 Gen2, Pilot Super Sport 245/40/18, EvoX Enkei Wheels 18x8.5" +38 offset, Stock Suspension - @VashEXE
Rear fenders were rolled during initial install. Only rubbed with a full load of people in the back on harder bumps. Had to clip JBR mudflaps on the drivers side to keep them from making contact with the tires when I would do a full lock turn.

2010 Gen2, Pilot Super Sport 235/40/18, TSW Nurburgring Wheels 18x8.5" +45 offset, Stock Suspension - @VashEXE
Rear fenders previously rolled. Tires do not rub under any circumstances. Have a little wear on the inner edge of the passenger rear tire, but I don't think it's an issue with tire sizing currently.

2013 Gen2, Nitto NeoGen - 245/40/18, EvoX Enkei Wheels 18x8.5" +38 offset, stock springs/shocks/camber arms, JBR RSB - @Me2Speed3 (Post)
No rubbing reported as of yet. Fenders are not rolled at this time.

2011 Gen2, Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport - 245/40/18, Konig Milligram - 18x8.5 +45, BC coilovers, SPC camber arms - @Quigs (Post)
slight rubbing in front in low speed full lock turning due to front coilovers adjusted slightly too low. Rear fenders mildly rolled, no other adjustments or trimming. Rubs in rear over large bumps/dips without passengers. Owner wanted to keep some what low ride height. Rear camber at approx. -2 degrees IIRC.

Genjuan:

2009 Gen1, Hankook Ventus R-S3 (v2) 245/40-18, Enkei Kojin Wheels 18x8.5" +50 offset, KWv3 Coilovers - @Enki (Post)
Coilovers not required for clearance (stock suspension will fit; I now have KWv3)
Rubs the frame rail at full lock (not felt, but seen, not visible on tires just the frame/plastics)
Rear fenders rolled to prevent cutting of the sidewall (stock rear suspension/camber)

2009 Gen1, Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport - 245/40/18, TSW Nurburgring Wheels 18x8.5" +45 offset, Koni yellow shocks, H&R springs, shorter OE Mazda MPV front endlinks, JBR RSB, SPC rear camber arms - @Quigs (Post)
Flat roll and very slight pull to rear fenders (1-2 mm) due to running minimal negative camber (approx. -1.7 degrees). Rear bumper tabs aggressively trimmed. Results in absolutely no rubbing in any situation under normal driving circumstances. Passengers rarely ride in back seat, but still no rubbing with one adult in back. During aggressive driving right rear rubs only on high speed, low angle, off camber corners turning to the left (experienced at the Tail of the Dragon). Believed that right rear fender might not be pulled quite as much as left side. Considering additional slight pull of rear fenders to get to -1.5 degrees rear camber. No rubbing issues at all in front with approx. -1.7 degrees front camber.

2008 Gen1, 245/40R17 Hankook RS3, 17x9+45 RPF1 Wheels, Mazdaspeed Coilovers (KW V3), Front wheel arch to ground 26", Rear wheel arch to ground: 25.5" (need to level this out still), 10mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in rear. - @Maisonvi (Post)
Spacers are needed to clear coils up front, no rubbing in the rear that I have ever noticed even with weight in the back.

2008 Gen1, 245/40R17 Kuhmo XS, 17x9+48 TRmotorsports C3, Mazdaspeed Coilovers (KW V3), Front wheel arch to ground 26", Rear wheel arch to ground: 25.5" (need to level this out still), 10mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in rear. - @Maisonvi (Post)
Spacers are needed to clear coils up front, the rear will rub when on the street on large bumps with full of track gear (spare tires, jack, stands, tools ect.) or people in the car. Also will rub on the front fender liner at full lock.

2008 Gen1, 215/45R18 Michelin Ice-X 3, stock Gen 1 wheels, Mazdaspeed Coilovers (KW V3), Front wheel arch to ground 26", Rear wheel arch to ground: 25.5" (need to level this out still), 10mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in rear. - @Maisonvi (Post)
Spacers arent needed at all, but look nice so I leave them on. Front tire will rub on the inner fender liner at full lock. No rubbing in the rear at all.

MS6:

 

2009 Mazdaspeed 3

Wheels: Enkei Kojin
18 x 8.5 +50

Tires:
Hankook Ventus R-S3 (v2) 245/40-18

Notes:
Coilovers not required for clearance (stock suspension will fit; I now have KWv3)
Rubs the frame rail at full lock (not felt, but seen, not visible on tires just the frame/plastics)
Rear fenders rolled to prevent cutting of the sidewall (stock rear suspension/camber)
Pictures are with stock suspension

 

This is info from Wheeldude that might be helpful for some. There is no suspension info listed though.
source: http://www.wheeldude.com/wordpress/help/wheel-guide/wheel-fitment-guide

Mazda3 04-up (including Mazdaspeed)
Standard Fitment
All current Rota wheels with sizes and offset listed below
18×8 +48
18×8.5 +48

Moderate Fitment
All current Rota wheels with sizes and offset listed below
17×9 +42
18×8.5 +44 Grid (225/40/18 for a direct bolt-on) 235/40 requires rear fender roll

Aggressive Fitment
All current Rota wheels with sizes and offset listed below
17×9 +35
18×9 +30
18×9.5 +38

 

2009 Mazdaspeed3

Wheels: TSW Nurburgring - 18x8.5 +45

Tires: Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport - 245/40/18

Suspension: Koni yellow shocks, H&R springs, shorter OE Mazda MPV front endlinks, JBR RSB, SPC rear camber arms

Notes: Flat roll and very slight pull to rear fenders (1-2 mm) due to running minimal negative camber (approx. -1.7 degrees). Rear bumper tabs aggressively trimmed. Results in absolutely no rubbing in any situation under normal driving circumstances. Passengers rarely ride in back seat, but still no rubbing with one adult in back. During aggressive driving right rear rubs only on high speed, low angle, off camber corners turning to the left (experienced at the Tail of the Dragon). Believed that right rear fender might not be pulled quite as much as left side. Considering additional slight pull of rear fenders to get to -1.5 degrees rear camber. No rubbing issues at all in front with approx. -1.7 degrees front camber.

Pictures:






[doublepost=1489195930][/doublepost]@Me2Speed3's 2013 Mazdaspeed3

Wheels: OE Evo X wheels - 18x8.5 +38

Tires: Nitto NeoGen - 245/40/18

Suspension: stock springs/shocks/camber arms, JBR RSB

Notes: No rubbing reported as of yet. Fenders are not rolled at this time.

Picture:


[doublepost=1489196462][/doublepost]2011 Mazdaspeed3

Wheels: Konig Milligram - 18x8.5 +45

Tires: Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport - 245/40/18

Suspension: BC coilovers, SPC camber arms

Notes: slight rubbing in front in low speed full lock turning due to front coilovers adjusted slightly too low. Rear fenders mildly rolled, no other adjustments or trimming. Rubs in rear over large bumps/dips without passengers. Owner wanted to keep some what low ride height. Rear camber at approx. -2 degrees IIRC.

Pictures:

 

Updated the list with all of the posts so far. Good stuff guys, keep em coming!

 

@Maisonvi

Get me some fitment info dawg!

 

Sorry, kinda forgot, been busy with shift knobs and side projects. Let me know if this is what you are looking for or if you want more/different information

My set up: rear fenders are rolled for all these configs
Suspension is Mazdaspeed Coilovers (KW V3)
Front wheel arch to ground 26"
Rear wheel arch to ground: 25.5" (need to level this out still)

245/40R17 Hankook RS3 on 17x9+45 RPF1, 10mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in rear
Spacers are needed to clear coils up front, no rubbing in the rear that I have ever noticed even with weight in the back.



245/45R17 Kuhmo XS on 17x9+48 TRmotorsports C3, 10mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in rear
Spacers are needed to clear coils up front, the rear will rub when on the street on large bumps with full of track gear (spare tires, jack, stands, tools ect.) or people in the car. Also will rub on the front fender liner at full lock.


215/45R18 Michelin Ice-X 3 on stock Gen 1 wheels, 10mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in rear
Spacers arent needed at all, but look nice so I leave them on. Front tire will rub on the inner fender liner at full lock. No rubbing in the rear at all.

(No pic of the winter set up, I will try and get one before I pull them off)

 

Updated with @Maisonvi 's info. What year is your car @Maisonvi ?

 

2008.

Edit: added pics to the original post as well.

 

2007 Speed 3

Rolled the rear fenders and mounted new wheels and tires! No spacers needed. Did not roll the front and no rubbing issues.

Suspension
Megan Coil Overs - at max height

Wheels
17X9 38 Offset 5x114.3 DRAG D48 Black Wheels/Rims
Tires
Hankook Ventus V12 evo 2 Summer Radial Tire - 245/40R17 Y

Hub Centric Rings
4 pieces Hubcentric Rings - 67.1mm ID to 73.1mm OD - Silver Aluminum Hubrings - Only Fits 67.1mm Vehicle Hub & 73.1mm Wheel Centerbore - for many Mitsubishi Mazda Kia Hyundai

Lug Nuts - need tuner type lugs "skinnier than stock"
Gorilla Automotive Acorn Lug Nuts 24

 

2012 Speed3

Suspension: Ksport coilovers
Wheels: XXR 530 18"x8.75" +33
Tires: General Gmax AS-2 235/40/18

Rubbing was real bad. A slight body roll and it would rub. Had my rears rolled REAL FLAT you can't even feel the lip anymore. Bumper tabs were also cut. All this was done by my friend who owned a body shop. He also said that he pushed the inside of the fender outside a little bit. But I never really checked it all I know is it didn't and hasn't rubbed anymore.






Swapped suspension when my Ksport blew.

On Swift springs with stock struts



Current setup:
Swift Springs on Stock struts
Wheels: 17"x9" RPF1 +45 with 5mm spacers in the front
Tires: Nitto Neogen 225/45/17

 

2010 Speed 3
Suspension: Stock
Wheels: OEM Ford "Bullitt" style 17"x8" +45mm
Tires: 215/60/17 General Altimax Arctic (leftover from my previously owned 2005 Mustang GT)

This post is for informational purposes only, the tires seen in the photos are too tall (27.2") to use. I believe that the front tires would rub on the inner fender liner under load / at full steering lock. I was test fitting to see if the wheels would fit so I can use them for properly sized winter tires. The wheels do fit, they clear the brakes and are not particularly close to any suspension components. I will be installing 225/45/17 winter tires on these wheels this week and will update the thread when I put the winter wheel/tire combo on the car.

I think it looks...interesting and different. I probably won't get a lot of love here for using the Ford wheels but I already had them sitting in the basement so they suited my (lack of a) budget.

 

How did I just now see this thread? Lol. Shall I transfer over stuff?

 

It was a good thread! I don't think anybody would be opposed to you transferring it over.

@Kevindust it looks like your images broke for some reason.

 

I'm still trying to get pictures of a local's car with 17x9 +45 RPF1s with 255/40/17 Toyo R888 for people to reference...dude hasn't been over in a while so I can steal some pics haha.

 

Toyo Proxo 225 45 17 on RPF1's 17x9 45 with advanceautoparts 5.5 spacers for the front and rear. I might get 8 or 10mm spacers soon but it's good right now. I am no wheel and tire expert. on BC BR coil-overs

 

I know I’m way late but here we go.

Alright, there's been entirely too many "will these fit" threads. I'm going to attempt to minimize these threads popping up. I know noobs will still over look it, but I'd like to consolidate the "will these fit" questions to one thread, and hopefully help the OP answer their own question by reading this thread. Everyone should feel free to discuss their impressions/experiences with their setups. How did the wheels fit? How well do the tires perform? Did you need to roll your fenders? Are you lowered? Etc. Feel free to post pics of your setup as well. It'll give people ideas of different style & color of wheels on different color rides too. The more feedback we get, the less noobs will need to search.

As accepting as I am of aggressive stretching & the hellaflush scene, this is going to be the functional fitment thread, since MSO is 95+% hardcore function > form based.
I DO NOT want to see any function vs form or hellaflush bashing/arguing or any shitting on people in this thread.

The MS3 is a bit different in what you guys can fit than my MS6, but they're not too far off. I'm hoping to get lots of traffic from both MS3 & MS6 guys to help you with your fitment questions on your respective model. Hell, even your opinions on what looks good and doesn't.

/intro. tl:dr

Stock Wheel Specs
Our bolt pattern is 5x114.3. Hub bore is 67.1mm. Since the Gen2 should fit similar to the Gen1 this applies to you guys too.
** Stock MS6 Wheels: 18x7 | +55mm offset | 23.5lbs
** Stock Gen1 MS3 Wheels: 18x7 | +52.5mm offset | ~24lbs
** Stock Gen2 MS3 Wheels: 18x7.5 | +52mm offset | 24.6lbs
Use these for reference when using the following sites.

Links from the Wheel Gods
Before you ask ANY questions...you've GOT to check these sites out. They are from the wheel gods and were extremely helpful when I was trying to figure out what wheels & tires I wanted to go with. The first one was my favorite because it gives you a primitive overlay of your current setup and potential new setup. It's also the only site that lets you compare aggressive stretches. The other two are great references as well.
WillTheyFit.com
Wheel / Tire Size Comparer
Wheel Offset Calculator

Wheel/Fitment Terminology
Offset - "The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel." - TireRack.com
Camber - "Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle." - Wheel Camber Explained
How to Read Tire Sizes
Calculating tire Dimensions

https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
Wheels
Generally 8-8.5" wheels are accepted as mildly aggressive and a healthy size wheel for us. Whether you want to run 17s, 18, 19s, or bigger tho is on you. 16s are the smallest you can run with the factory brakes. Right around a +35 offset is accepted as a fairly aggressive yet acceptable offset for these cars. Should sit you close to flush with the fenders without going overboard. Remember the lower the offset the further from your strut/closer to your fender the wheel will be. Higher offset draws the wheel inside the well closer to the strut. You're going to need to break out a tape measure/ruler to see how much offset & width you're willing to run.

Just for the record...zero and negative offsets are ridiculous. Even for the Aggressive Thread.

Here's an awesome thread that's loaded with links on the effects of wheel sizes. You may enjoy some of these. They may even help you decide whether or not the wheels you're looking at are the best for you. Effects of Wheel Size/Weight on Vehicle Performance

Tires
The most common tire size run on MSF is probably 225/40 or 235/40 for aftermarket wheels. Some have run as wide as 255/40 with wheels wide enough for them. For stock wheels, 225s are ok. 235s are a bit wide for the 7" wide stockers but it has been done. There's plenty of wheel width/tire width charts online for you to see if a tire size is ok for your wheel. Fender rolling will likely be necessary for anything wider than 225/40. Especially if your car is lowered at all. But remember as @driver311 points out, once you start adding power, 225s and 235s just aren't going to get you any traction. At least for you MS3 guys.

As for brands, that's a personal preference. Feel free to discuss your experiences with what you've run. How did they grip, corner? Perform in wet conditions? How long did they last? Did they rub? Etc.

Spacers
Some people simply want more of a flush look without having to buy a whole new set of wheels. Or they have a set of wheels in mind that they like, but they'll sit too close to the strut to run safely. Spacers are the answer for that. Lots of people - domestics, imports, trucks, even offroaders have taken advantage of spacers.

For our cars, you want to get hubcentric spacers. This simply means the spacer centers itself on the hub rather than by the studs. Our hub bore is 67.1mm. There's 2 types of spacers to consider now. Both can be seen in the following pic.


The thinner ones on the bottom are basic spacers - no studs in them. They can be purchased in virtually any width. You typically don't need to install extended studs for anything 5mm or less. Some say up to 8mm is fine, but imho that's pushing it. You want your lugnut to be firmly secure on your stud, and with an 8mm spacer, you may not get enough threading. For anything larger than 5mm (10-15m are common, up to 25mm or thicker) you will need to install extended studs.

The ones on the top have studs built in them. These are typically 15mm or wider. This allows you to run a wide spacer without needing to install extended studs. You bolt this spacer on your hub, then trim your factory studs down with an angle grinder or some cut off tool. The studs can't stick out any further than the spacer or your wheel will not sit properly.

Post up your pics with wheels and specs listed, lowered or not, if you rub and if you rolled fenders or not.
Here is information pertaining to wider wheels and the amount of "poke" they will have compared to a stock setup
Gen 1
18x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
18x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
18x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
18x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)


17x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
17x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
17x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
17x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)


Speed6
18x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
18x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
18x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
18x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)

17x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
17x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
17x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
17x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)


Edit: If you find any information you'd like added to the OP, or find any misinformation or grammatical errors be sure to "mention" me with said information.

 

You should take out the other forum links and make a new one for here.

 

Somewhat edited. Too lazy to make a new post, that’s too much work.

 

Late to the party but:

2010 Speed 3. Konig Hypergram, 18X8.5/35mm offset. PSS 255/35/18, Bilstein coilovers VERY low but nowhere near stanced.

Fronts rub a bit over bumps and full lock turning. No roll at all. Rears rub over moderate dips, very mild roll (inner lip not even rolled flat).

No tire galling, just a bit of shiny spots where they have rubbed.