Cas' 800+ or Bust Build

It didn't die when the timing slipped. I actually drove it home before I figured out what the damage was.. So hopefully I'll be fine once I get it back together. If not, I'll rebuild the head, and the bottom end will be keyed.

 

How far did it slip? Usually you can get 5-10 degrees before there's any interference. On some motors if your pistons have large enough valve reliefs and you're on stock cams it's not an interference motor anymore. Either way, I wouldn't spend the money on keying it unless you're trying to make some crazy power. The friction washers work fine for 98% percent of people who build their motor.

If you haven't started tearing it apart yet do a leakdown. If it's not leaking you're in good shape.

 

I used a bore scope after it slipped and didn't see any marks on the pistons so it think its fine. Cams were only slighly off, but the ckp was about two teeth off on the crank pulley.

 

Yea you're mostly likely fine. 2 teeth isn't a whole ton.

 

This is a better pic of the cams with crank at tdc.
My motor was missing the friction washer between the oil pump gear and timing chain gear, as well as the friction washer behind the vvt when i tore it down.
The cams were still aligned, just off a little bit from the crank..

 

Bump @CMajor

 

So I have driven my car all week to work and to downtown Cinci and back with no major issues. I believe it was this past Tuesday night I was just kind of looking over the car and noticed it smelled a little like gas so I found there was a tiny leak from the fuel basket. The big o-ring that seal the top hat to the tank must have shifted slightly so while fixing that I accidentally pulled one of the fuel pumped off the fuel line in the basket without knowing. Went to start my car in the morning, it started but then died like 5 minutes later. I was able to troubleshoot and figure out what I did, always look in the last spot you touched! I could hear the pump running so at first I was thinking it couldn't be that but it was basically just pumping fuel back into the basket. Got that fixed and haven't had any other issues with it. Coolant is still leaking slightly, I know exactly where it's coming from but the hose is not wanting to seal on the OEM hose since we replaced the hardlines with flexible ones running back to the fire wall. I've readjusted the hoses like 4-5 times and each time it leaks less so I'll get it eventually. Lastly I had a blow out on Thursday morning, on my way to work. Luckily I still had my donut in the back so I put that one and continued into work. Swapped over to my winter setup that night and all is well with the car. It was pouring yesterday and all my fender liners are gone so I was slightly nervous something was going to get wet that didn't need to be but I was fine. Getting my confident in it as I drive it, I'm others know that feeling.

Yesterday I did my 500 mile oil change (more like 530-40) and already put another 60 miles on it so roughly 600 miles on the motor and everything looks great. Oil pressure is still in the high 70's low 80's cruising on the highway (with lots of engine breaking).
I missed taking pictures like this, she looks so good


Edit: Well my wife took a video and it doesn't seem to work when uploading from Imgur, I'll see if I can find another way to share, probably YouTube. It's nothing crazy just get to hear the exhaust a bit.

Edit 2:


Here's the blown tire that happened on my way to work

 

Okay so another ~300 miles on the engine now. Roughly 800 miles total, I was planning on changing the oil again at 750 but didn't have time so I get to it this weekend before driving again. Coolant leak is still there, another thing I'll fix this weekend. I just need to add another clamp to the hose I've been messing with. There's only a clamp on one side of the brass fitting that was installed. So basically two hoses meeting at the brass fitting and currently only one clamp. Sho helped me out <3, I was driving home from work and looked down to see my coolant temps really high. He sent me a little video on how to burp the coolant system since I had not done that before. Scared the crap out me but I got it sorted out to get home. Just keeping an eye on temps until it's fixed. Lastly my O2 sensor is going out, got a code for it and it was reading 14.85 while driving. A few power cycles later and it's reading again but still going to replace it. Found one on Amazon that was 110 bucks, way better than the 300 to go back OEM. Oh and also updated my signature

 

Alright I have 1000 miles on the motor and got my Brad Penn oil delivered from Amazon. I was going to change it tonight but something came up and couldn't. I'll be doing it this weekend. I have 50K on the chassis now just rolled over that today. I also ordered a multimeter so I can start the wiring for my PI system. I know being an Electrical Engineer I probably should have bought one earlier but oh well I have one now. I took some WOT logs around when I hit the 800 mile mark. Threw it in Vdyno and looks like I'm sitting right around 325HP on spring pressure. Running slightly lean up top so I let out around 5500. Still need to do a MAF cal, been so long I forgot how to do it LOL. It's been getting a lot colder so probably won't be able to pull anymore logs for a bit. I will say my setup flows a shit ton of air and I'm already at 80% IDC. I'll report back with progress on the PI system this weekend.

 

Oil changed, took a bit of energy to go to the garage since it was in the single digits outside. Makes the garage floor pretty damn cold. Either way got it finished and ready to go.


I did start messing with my PI stuff but found out I don't have the right connectors for my injectors on my SS controller. I thought I had that all matched up when I ordered it. Today was the first time looking at it, so I'll have to order the correct connectors to make it work. I already need to order connectors for the fuel basket anyways, I decided I wanted to do away with the soldered joints so I can remove the basket if I need to without getting wires tangled up.

Also I can't find my fuel pressure regulator which is annoying. Spent about an hour looking through all the boxes in my garage and I sent Scott a text to see if he can find it at the shop. I'll probably wait till later in the week but if he can't find it I'll order a new one. I laid out all my AN fittings and need to put them together on my workbench to see where everything needs to go. Slowly getting there, doesn't do a whole lot of good considering the weather is pretty crappy anyways. I should have everything ready by spring, I don't see why it wouldn't be done. Anyways that's it, I'll give another update when I actually start hooking stuff up.

 

I just started re-reading from the start. So how much did the 6266 make on your stock block?

 

500 whp / 400 wtq @ 28 PSI

 

Alright I have an update, I'm not at home so I don't have my logs or Vdyno but I finally got my MAF cals pretty much done for now without PI. I'm making roughly 350-360ish whp on spring pressure (20 psi). It creeps up to 22 at the top of the RPM range. Already out of fuel at the top of my logs, hitting ~110 IDC and still have another 800 RPM to go until redline. I hit 128 MPH @ 6600 RPM in 4th with my new gear setup. That was the highest RPM I took 4th gear out to just because of traffic. AFRs and HPFP pressure still looked fine even being at 110% IDC so I would of taken it out further if it weren't for traffic. I'm pretty happy with that and can't wait to see what 8K feels like.

I'm basically done with my SS controller on getting the new connectors put on so there's that. Another 1000 miles on the motor so far so good. I have some sort of vacuum leak but I believe it's pre-turbo based on what @Sho told me and my LTFTs seem to indicate that as well. Also I had the pleasure of having Sho over at my house while he was down in Cinci getting the VVT done on his speed 6 by a local since Oddball was too busy. Happened to be his birthday so we had a few drinks at a local bar!

Edit: Also I'm starting on my transmission guide on fixing synchros and replacing gears. I have about 200 pictures I need to sift through. I want it to be informative without going overboard on pictures.

 

Got some time this weekend to finish pinning the connectors on my split second controller and started to connect some of the AN fittings to the fuel rail. Looks like I'll need to order some more fitting unfortunately, I think Scott just gave me an assortment and didn't actually have it laid out. Looking to buy a house in the next month or two so that's partly why I haven't finished the fueling setup, just more important things going on right now but don't worry I'll get it done. I also figured out the wiring on the fuel pump, it's actually pretty easy when I looked at the wiring diagram Radium has on their site. I was worried about it for no reason, although they only gave 10ft power and ground wires so I'll at least need to get a longer power wire since it'll be tied to the battery. I'd rather just keep it one wire instead of multiple joints.

Lastly I pulled my throttle body plug and play harness off and traced the wires out. Here's a pic of how they are ran, each plug had 1-6 on them so that's how I labeled them. @KingScumbag @JohnnyTightlips I know you guys were interested in this.

 

Is that clips side facing down or up? @KingScumbag is a total bro and mailed me his but he just had the middle wires switched so looks like I will have to revise it. Thanks for the info.

 

I believe it was clip side up, I'd have to go look again. Not sure if your plug has numbers on it but the numbers were facing up.

 

I bought a house earlier this month and moved in last Thursday so been a bit busy with all the house stuff and furniture shopping. Hoping to get back to the car and hook everything up soon. I posted on one of the Facebook groups so some may have seen what happened to my car but my 16w fab fuel rail has a little bracket to hold it in place. Well the bolts broke off in the manifold probably about 2 months ago. I finally got around to buying a bolt extractor kit and it worked perfectly. I haven't bought the new hardware yet just been too busy and keep forgetting when I'm at a hardware store.

I've been having issues with the radium basket, I think it's all fixable but left me stranded a few times in inconvenient spots. The first couple of times I kept having the fuel lines pop off in the tank from the top hat or the fuel pump. Fixed that by just tightening the clamps more, they seemed tight enough but kept popping off. The other issue I had with it was the PTFE line kept bursting. I believe I have that fixed now. I'm not sure how familiar everyone is with my setup but basically both in-tank pumps are feeding one rail on the top hat that goes out. I originally had the primary pump in the back of the two and I think this was causing a weird pressure differential with the secondary pump not running. I swapped the pumps out and haven't had a line burst yet. Also have some corrugated fuel lines coming but I may not need them now. I know exactly how I'm going to run all my wiring to hook up the second pump but just haven't had time to get it wired. It's going to be always on if anyone is curious. I'd rather have the peace of mind that I didn't forget to turn it on before a WOT pull.

Lastly, my passenger side strut mount blew up and I ordered a new mount. It was finally delivered today so I'll be installing that tonight. It's been sketchy driving with it blown but didn't have a choice since I daily the racecar. Just praying I didn't damage the strut, don't really want to have to replace a KWV3 strut. Anyways that's about it for an update. I hope I can get all this ironed out soon so I can turn it up. These little issues keep coming up so it's been hard finding the time to make the car go faster when I have to fix stuff.

 

I could see you having issues with only one pump running if they don't have built in check valves. Have you noticed any issues with the crossover tube at low fuel levels. I'm still debating if I want to try the radium part, or just run my second pump in the passenger tophat.

Why not use a hobbs switch to trigger the second pump?

 

Yeah no check valves and no real issues that I've noticed. I think it's still a viable option just would like to have it be reliable for a couple of months before recommending it to people. On the Hobbs switch I'd just rather it always be running just for peace of mind. I don't mind hearing the pumps running because it's a racecar after all.

 

Finally getting into a routine after buying the house so got a few things done on the car. Last update I said I was replacing the strut mount, got that done. Here's the old one, it was destroyed.

Had to take a pic of the garage with both cars, I'm actually taking up my wife's spot here. I usually park the speed outside now so the Camaro can be in the garage where it should be.

I finally received my new fuel pump. Aeromotive actually replaced my pump under warranty even though it's been about 2 years since I bought it. They discontinued the 11165 and gave me a 11565 in place. It's not a direct drop-in anymore but it doesn't matter with my setup. I believe I have all the issues ironed out, I haven't been stranded since I swapped the pumps around late last month. Now I just need to see what fittings I need to complete the setup and run some wires. I decided I'm going to reroute my supply line to come up on the passenger side so I don't need a 180* fitting. After sorting that out I'll be able to mount my FPR on the driver's side which is a lot easier since there's more room. Here's a pic of the new pump.