Disi-MZResponse

Ok minor update.

Pumped her stomach today and the result was....
*drumroll*

2.5 quarts.

Seriously, no idea how I fucked that up that bad. Next step: More WOT and check for smoke.

 

2.5 overfilled!?

 

Yep.

Lmfao

 

Lol! That'll Def smoke a ton

 

Only during WOT, when I lubricated everything south of the MAF.

 

Been there,lol. This was only overfilled by maybe a 1/4 quart

 

I overfilled mine slightly too. I checked the oil before heading up to detroit and it was pretty close to the min mark (I almost always check it like 10 min after a drive, but figured I could guestimate close enough and that seemed low) So I was like shit. This is it. It's starting to drink it. Added half a quart and headed to detroit.

Checked it in detroit and it was just below the full mark. Warm temp makes a much larger difference than I anticipated.

Checked it again 400 miles later on a real hot day after a drive and it was over full. Oops. Lol

 

@aaronc7 what that mouth do

Still not hitting timing up top (3 degrees lower than target), gonna have to investigate that further and compare past logs to see why I'm hitting 300 on this one with no timing changes (same road, same BATs, etc).

 

Further analysis only shows 1 degree less timing and running slightly leaner as the only major differences in the run, aside from the BATs running almost 20 degrees hotter.

I've decided to go back to full corn (I'm lazy) and take timing as high as it will go from there. I should be able to at least edge out a stock turbo car power wise due to the increases in efficiency that this engine *should* have.

Time will tell.

 

I can't find my logs, but I'm fairly sure my k04 car was not quicker than yours 60-100 in the balls of summer. And it did not make over 300 whp on the latest v dyno cf 1.01 smoothing 3. So I think you're beating a stock turbo car.

 

I'm on e30 right now too.

 

Minor update time.

It's been so fucking hot here I've not wanted to do anything and really don't want to beat on it without some kind of boost cooling and / or without my undertray on; not having that one little piece under the bumper to the rad support really kills your ECTs, as I found out on Saturday's leisurely mountain cruise where I held about 226 the whole way up (never even really used my brakes).

Finally had a cool day (about 78 at the time of posting) so I went ahead and installed one of the (two, accidentally) honeycomb airflow straighteners I bought from Treadstone.

What a massive fucking difference.

I went back through an old log; AFR variance 1 is overall, and variance 2 is with the lowest and highest 5 values trimmed from the log:

Open:
Max MAFv Variance: 0.15
Max AFR Variance 1: 1.48
Max AFR Variance 2: 0.701


Straightener:
Max MAFv Variance: 0.01
Max AFR Variance 1: 0.146
Max AFR Variance 2: 0.1


Simply backing out of the driveway I already knew it was better. Vibrations down all around, though the first start was all over the place (probably because of wonk ass fuel trims) but just drove better.

This map needs some love (by love I mean boost *and* timing), but I'm up 2 deg roughly across the board and down about 3 PSI and making about the same power / torque. Gonna add more from here and see what it gets me.

 

Interesting, did you get an extra for a 4" if so I'd be interested. I'll have to check mine out once she's running. Likely don't need it as badly as you though.

 

Nah, just the 3.5". If you see a lot of fluctuation at idle or cruise is when you know you need it.

 

Update time:

Last weekend had the ECT sensor go wonky; would read fine then read 140 for extended period. Fluid levels fine, tstat appears to be working OK. Next day I unplugged it, the connections looked fine, plugged it back in and gave it a wiggle. Don't think it's been an issue since then, but I'm not sure.

Yesterday, go to leave to run errands and its running off; chocked it up to the rain/humidity but had a CEL. Wasn't stressing it because it could be gas cap, after all. Checked the code today and it's P2251 Front HO2S negative current control circuit open, and on today's errand trip the sensor would stop reading and just lock in on 14.8 AFR for extended periods. Restarting doesn't seem to do anything, so I'll have to pull and inspect.

I need to do a compression check and inspect the plugs anyways so that will be a good time to do it. Really hope it's not a harness/ecu issue.

 

OK so, within the next 6 months I'll probably have a 90 degree elbow for the ST mani, making doing anything TMIC and/or chem only much easier. @JohnnyTightlips set me up with Jim @ DTP Fabworks and he said making a custom TMIC setup for the ST manifold seems like it would be fun, so that's on the plate for the future too.

Ultimately, I'm going to have to send him my ST mani and adapter so he can put it on his test vehicle for fitment and whatnot, but that's a small price to pay for progress.

Just a heads up.

 

Jimi does fantastic work! Looking forward to seeing it!

 

O2 sensor swapped, as well as plugs. Runs a ton better now, but I might have some cold issues with the tune at low speeds (not enough timing for the load being reached, probably).

Compression (cold) was 163, 158, 163-4, 165 for 1-4.
CS cam users, what's your cold compression at?

Plugs (in order, 1-4):




4 looks a little off, and all of them had oil on the threads, so not sure what that's about.

Primary O2 sensor looked OK I guess:




Bonus pic:
This is why you don't let an engine sit longer than a week without running it. Can you spot the problem (Smallblock V8)?

 

My cold compression numbers were 180 plus or minus 1 or 2. I have cs cams in my motor

 

Forged pistons?

Edit: Other factory 2.0 liter cars are getting 180-190 so FML