Another No start

I have gone through almost all no start and had no luck . So long story short I let car sit about 5years I rebuilt engine . Now my problem is it will crank not turn over . I have fuel pressure / compression/ spark. I checked grounds and even added ground wire to run to negative terminals to confirm ground . I checked fuses and relays my thing is I have no fuel going into cylinder but have fuel at the rail . Has new MAf sensor / new cpk and cmp sensors / new fuel pressure sensor . My key also is working imobilizer not active ( no flashing light) . When I add starter fluid it tries to start which is a good thing . I also checked both mechanical timing and ignition (cpk position) . Still no start? Could the ecm loose memory is there an actual way to check ?

 

How do you know you have no fuel going into the high pressure side of the rail? If it has been sitting for years did you drain all the gas and refill it with a fresh batch?

 

Is the injector harness grounded? It causes alot of people issues. Should ground out near the hpfp with an eyelet. I dont have a picture @JohnnyTightlips should have a pic

 

Here ya go

 

It's a odd ball elongated brass terminal lug. It has a tang to catch and keep terminal from rotation when tightened..

 

yes car has been drained of old fuel and cleaned and has fresh batch. i assume i have fuel pressure because i am using mazda ids to monitor fuel as im cranking the engine while having data monitoring , i noticed i got as high as 6.74mpa which is about 997psi ? so pressure is building but when i remove spark plug to check for spark (which im getting on all four) i noticed all cylinders are dry no fuel smell or wetness on cylinder nothing. i feel its a ground i am missing but just to be safe. 1. ground on terminal to fender chasiss. 2. both big and small ground on front of transmission from wiring harness 3. one ground on top of transmission by shifter cabler brakcet. 4 hpfp ground wire from coil harness (even extended wire to negative ground terminal ) (cleaned with sand paper and wire brush ) . still nothing. i tried pats parameter reset using ids for giggles even though i had no flashing key light . nothing .i tried to reprogram ecu as well and nothing .

 

oh and the passenger motor mount ground is also connected

 

Way back in my early years with POS carb rides...
A small splash of fuel into intake cautious with small amount! Now direct injection? At least try maybe a hypo syringe of 1 cc into each spark plug. The theory I'm thinking is now at some point of cranking engine a/f ratio will fire cylinders and run.....if timing, valves, compression, a clean clear exhaust is normal. Control of --key -- turn off since no control of throttle plate. Nice about this try is can be done alone....
Wait a few more posters to see if I'm out of my mind #)

 

i tried adding starting fluid and later on actual gas, and it started to chugg like it was trying to turn over so i thought i flooded cylinders. but it did not catch, so my thought mabye timing which led me to check timing and sensors and what not . but after cancelling out the ckp and cmp sensors since i got new ones anyways . i checked fuel syatem and found the injectors not firing (spraying ) fuel into cylinder , i checked pressure so i checked frp sensor so i replaced that but nothing . i removed intake to check wiring and injectors all ohms are within spec . so i decided to go get them bench tested at my local shop they set it up on the machine so i can see the spray. which all four fired and sprayed ok . so my final thing im assuming is ECU . which is why i got ids i reprogrammed but nothing . could the unit it self be messed up that reprogram wont work? i also checked resistance on fuel injector resistor and it ohms between .3-.2 within range but iffy on it .
can anyone confirm the ground locations as well please .

 

ok guys i have a no start thread i did a few days back . problem is no fuel into cylinder. timing is good checked it , i have compression .i have fuel pressure (using ids i get 6.74 mpa cranking) injectors work tested outside they spray. i have spark. i reprogrammed ecu using ids nothing. i have all grounding points that i can find. my question is can any one name the ground locations in total so i can check if i got all of them ?

so far
1: hpfp ground (even extended to negative )
2: one ground on harness on top of trans
3: two on front of trans ( one fat one and one small one) (also extended to negative terminal)
4: passenger motor mount
5: driver fender area that goes to negative terminal aswell

am i missing any other grounds ?
my only problem is i am not having fuel spray into cylinders
i reprogrammed Ecu using ids
parameter reset for PATS
new cam and crank sensor
new maf
new Fuel rail sensor

 

ok so i tried using data logger on mazda IDS and found no power on injector pw1 . does that mean my ecm is fried?

 

Long shot, but ever figure this out man? Have the exact same issue

 

same :/

 

Semi-similar issue but I have completely rebuilt my motor, replaced high pressure fuel pump, place fuel rail, injectors, replaced every possible thing I can think of plus adding ground wires and what not. Cranking but not starting, fuel pressure not increasing, and only getting pressure from itfp. Cleaned hpfp and replaced orings, checked grounds, checked voltage, resistance, everything...... No fuel rail pressure like the high pressure fuel pump spill valve is not engaging but I have checked for continuity on spill valve and and voltage to harness and all checks out. BUUUUUT quick question....... If my ECU is ticking when I turn my key to the accessory position, is it possibly my ECU has a short in it and not allowing the ecu to tell the pump to work? I know the "pump" is mechanical and runs off the cam lobe, but you know what im saying.

******an electrical tick/pulse if you would... That I'm certain shouldn't be there******

 

Best to create a thread for your specific trouble. Then it's easier for others to help, future searches if a cure is found to help the next person.
You have any way to get logs? Here that's important, yes you might think well that's something for after running. No long term ownership will definitely be on your list of necessities for happy Speed lifestyle.
I think using the troubleshooting form and filling out the necessary information that the form explains will allow fast and hopefully more directed help.

 

So did you ever figure it out? The ticking of the PCM because I'm in the same situation. I have built engine and I was racing a Ford ST and yes had him beat, then my speed 3 "Brigitte the midget " turn off and threw 4 codes. It cranks but no start and now I'm hearing that same ticking noise from my PCM. Checked continuity in wire harness,grounds, fuel, and now I'm thinking of replacing the pcm as well.

 

Start a new thread with a list of mods and other recent repairs. Chances are you probably blew something up if it just cut off like that.