VoodooShark's V2 Buttz Build

The bolt aisle at your local are hardware will have a drawer of random Rubber bits you can try to find one that works

 

Yep; I figure I'll find a bolt small enough to fit through that hole on the assembly, and tighten it up with a nut on the backside. Then either leave it like that or find something to stick to the face so it isn't metal on metal contact when the pedal arm hits.

 

Welp. The cunt is still sticking. Idk if I need a longer pedal stop or if that's 100% irrelevant to the cause. Pretty fucking sick of this, though.

 

Are all the fittings truly tight for that braided line.. once bled should always spring back. Check fittings re bleed. Air has to be getting back in.. also have you check the reservoir for fluid, I know its dumb but still happens

 

The reservoir is definitely full and I've never had to top it off except when bleeding the clutch last weekend. I also wonder if there's air getting in somehow and messing things up. There's this aftermarket braided ss clutch line but tbh I am not sure where it attaches on the topside... I'm assuming battery and tray out to access?

 

Is the clutch pedal bracket cracked or missing its spring?

 

I've got a double spring at the top of the pedal arm to the under-dash structure that lifts it up on the top if the throw, idk what else there's supposed to be as far as the factory assembly goes. It shouldn't be cracked, it was reinforced when Jef had the previous crack welded but I suppose it's a possibility.

 

Maybe its just the damn master cylinder going bad.

Did Jeff throw in a junk aftermarket one?

 

That's a question. I hope it isn't the master because isn't that guy a real motherfucker to swap?

 

Turns out there's some lateral play in the clutch arm, and the nut I had tied to the stopper location was on the small side to the point of being able to be totally missed as a contact point when pressing the pedal in. So hail fucking mary time, I found a much larger diameter and thicker nut to attempt tying on as a stop, that the arm appears to make contact with regardless of the side to side play, and also stuck some padding to the back of the ear on the pedal that activates the clutch sensor so it can press that in on less throw.

I should be able to handle the slave cylinder if that seems like a likely culprit but I would really, really like to not have to attempt a master cylinder replacement. That would actually probably be up being a "pay a shop" job, which I always loathe having to surrender to. Fuck I hate this shit, haha.


Also: confirmed that the large clutch spring is properly in place and actuates with clutch pedal movement. Also verified as best as possible, given the incredibly awkward and tight location, that the weld on the assembly is holding and no other new cracks based on what I could see/feel.

 

I'm lazy gen 1 or gen2

 

Genpoopoo.

 

Big surprise, my last ditch effort didn't fucking work. If anything, it seems to stick more frequently with the stopper rigged up. 'Bout to push this thing into a lake.

 

Stop being lazy and change that master cylinder.

It'll be a full day, but you'll get your glorious clutch back.

 

Yeaaahhhhhhhh, I know. It just seems like such a bitch of a job.

And TBH I never even had a glorious clutch with this thing. The first time the pedal stuck on me was my first drive home after delivery.

 

Well then don't you want a glorious clutch finally?

 

So, based on these profile posts from Jef, the slave and master were new as of about a month prior to my receipt of the car in November 2018. Could the issue go deeper than the slave/master cylinders? Or could a non-OEM master be the culprit? The entire assembly was changed for a brand new ACT 6 clutch kit literally just days before the shipping company picked the car up. That's what gets me...as we'd discussed it, pretty much everything was new for me. I know he had intended to sell me a problem-free car, and in typical Good Guy Jef fashion had certainly gone above and beyond in doing all that he could to address the clutch even before he would commit to selling or accept any payment.

I am resigning myself to doing the master cylinder job but I also want to explore all avenues before jumping in.

 

Use an OEM master cylinder.

If it was fork, pressure plate, or bearing related you would not have the pedal sticking, instead you would have some kind of botched engagement.

What tab did he cut? Is the master cylinder moving due to the pedal modification?

 

It was some tab that makes reinstalling the pedal assembly a PITA. The assembly and master are firmly in place and I see no unusual movement when I crawl under the dash and hand-actuate the pedal. The only thing I have noticed that seemed a little odd was that the clutch pedal arm has some side to side travel but I guess I assume that's normal? Also still trying to figure out what it is about temperature that affects it; I never have this issue during summer months, only once temps start dropping, probably about 50ish and lower. Maybe something internal to the cylinder is shrinking slightly when it gets cold enough and letting pressure leak past?

 

He broke the pushrod of the old master cylinder or the new one?

Yes some side to side play is normal.

Another thought, did he install the clutch pedal spring backwards?

I tried to swap clutch springs with some C6 and C7 springs, and when I had the spring out the pedal would indeed stick to the floor until you pulled it back up.