Cure my Stupidity!

Hello folks! I’ve come to ask a question and see if I’m just being paranoid or if this is done incorrectly. So I acquired a Treadstone TR10 that I’m attempting to mount on my car. So after some finagling, I managed to get it setup. However! I’m not sure if you can mount it backwards... The way it’s currently mounted, is that I have the top brackets connected with an L-bracket to the crash bar. And then I have two metal bars connected to the bottom brackets that run from the frame. The bottom brackets are facing the front of the car though(towards the bumper), so it’s technically backwards from common placement.

I attempted to attach a photo below. I’m hoping it works. Haha.

Second question I require assistance with. I am also trying to install a Corksport CST4, and for the love of god I can’t get the oil drain to connect and get the bolts started. So I was wondering if anyone may have any insight on that, otherwise I’m thinking about getting some m6x1.0 studs and just making it where I have to line it up and lock-nut it in place.

Sorry if I’m naive, but just making sure I’m not doing anything too stupid before I get everything set and button the car up. Thanks for any help! I hope everyone enjoys their week and holiday!

 

I dont think it matters which way the intercooler is facing

as for the oil drain, i spent like an hour messing with mine on my S4, i think i used a 1/4 inch socket with a long ass extension. Or that didnt work and i used my hands. Btw it may look like it wont connect to one of ends but it will flex into place.

 

Gotcha. I didn’t think so either, but I could only find evidence of it mounted the other way, so I wanted make sure I wasn’t going too crazy.

And makes sense. I’ve attempted the battle with the turbo hanging freely, although tomorrow I’ll mount it on the manifold and see if it will be more willing to cooperate. I think the pipe just flexed too much when I removed the k04 so it may just need to be “loved on” some more. I appreciate the reply!

 

Make sure none of the oil drain bolts are tightened all the way down, you will need to wiggle the drain around a bit but it should line up. If it doesnt you may need to loosen and wiggle the turbo from the manifold. Also, the drain bolts are ever so slightly different lengths. I forget which side is longer, but dont mix them up or you will have a nasty leak.

As for your intercooler, some tr10's have a splitter plate on one side of the endtanks. That side with the splitter plate always needs to be fed, it should not be the exit. If your model doesnt have the splitter plate, then dont worry about it. If it does and you installed it wrong, just flip it. No harm no foul.

 

Can you connect the oil drain on the bench and then lower into place?

 

Mine seems to have same sized bolts as far as the drain goes. May be a Corksport thing. I did originally want to take the whole drain line off, but I’m in fear that I may cause repercussions in doing that. Haha. But I’m sure I’ll be able to finagle it tomorrow. If not then it’s off to find some studs so I won’t keep dropping bolts in the creeps and crevices of the engine bay.

And the plan tomorrow was to check if there was a plate. The example photos they have for the product show a baffle, but it only has one photo so I’m not sure if both sides are slotted that way or if it’s just on one.

With any luck I’ll get the turbo buttoned up tomorrow and have my exhaust completed. Then it’s on to occ and slowly piecing it back together. Then comes the fun of running piping! And then ducting. Shall be a fun week coming up.

 

Tr10's only have that baffle on one side. Its meant to go on the feed side so it can split the air and get more efficiency out of the intercooler. That tr10 core is hilariously big so it needs it. The exit wont need one.

 

Gotcha. I’ll take a peek tomorrow and see how it’s laying. I probably have it wrong. Haha. Although, I could be super overly complicated and just route my piping all weird for it. Eh. We’ll see how squirrelly I feel with it.

Thank you!

 

Seems like it’s open ended. So me thinks I’m good with the placement. Also, I got the pesky drain line taken care of. Hooray progress!

 

Hey, I’m not sure if anyone is still attached to this thread, but I’ve encountered another issue. I just received a tune from Freektune, and it was a corrected tune for a MS6 as the original I got sent was for a speed 3. I just loaded it up and my car is automatically showing 30psi in boost on my accessport without the car being on. I don’t know what this means, can anyone help me out here on what to look for please?

 

Flash back to the old tune to verify if the pressure readings look normal. If everything looks fine with the last tune, mention it to your tuner.

 

I would, however I did heaps and heaps of mods. So the old tune is kind of obsolete. It was an OTS tune from Cobb, but it never gave me any problems prior to modding the car. I did send an email with the data logs and the picture above back to the tuner, but I’m unaware of how long it will take to get back. I was so excited to get to drive it! Guess I’ll just have to live a few more days without it.

 

Switch the tunes back and forth to determine if it is a tune or sensor issue. If it happens without the car being on then there is no harm with the old tune

 

I shall give it a try tomorrow. I’m trying to deduce what could cause this to happen. All my wiring and hardware seems in tact. The only thing I can think of is that my bar sensor may be whacked out or something, but I’m not sure it would just cap out like that. I’ll follow up with the results tomorrow. If anyone could give me a list of what could possibly cause this I’d love them large amounts. Haha. That way I’ll at least know what to look at/for. Thank you for the assistance. Both of you.

 

If it is showing boost at idle "or key on" then it has the wrong settings for you MAP sensor in the tune. If you installed a different MAP sensor over stock he needs to know that as part of the tuning process so that he can input the proper calibrations into the tune. Key on should be very close to 0 if your map sensor cal is right in the tune.

 

He has it listed in the tune notes when I look at it through AP manager. But I guess it might have gotten left out? Is it possible that the sensor could be faulty?

 

If the sensor was bad it would likely just not read at all or I supposed it could default to a static number. I would double check the plug to make sure it is tight. Is the sensor new or the harness you used?

 

Sensor is new. Harness is the same with the car. The corksport bar sensor has the auto adapter so you don’t have to get the Bosch connector for it. But I’m having the same issue with my ots map as well.



At this point I think I’ll try and clean the connection and re-apply it. Something definitely seems off though.

 

Cleaned the connections and the sensor. Sadly it’s still giving me the same problem. So unless there may be another hardware issue, I’m guessing it may be tuning related. I’m not sure if the Cobb ots map doing the same thing is indicative of anything, but it’s also meant to run off the stock sensor(which I’m not sure if a new sensor would affect that).

Any other suggestions or help is appreciated. Thank you guys for the help and replies! Hope everyone has a good Friday!

 

If I remember correctly on the MAP/BAT sensor body are the Scalar settings for A, B and Offset laser etched or on a sticker as part of the sensor.



Go to Access Tuner and load a OTS map, go to the sensor settings and change the corresponding stuff to match the information on the sensor. Then flash that tune to the car and see what the readings are.