Front wheel bearing How-To kinda sorta

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 How-To' started by macdiesel, Apr 4, 2020.

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  1. macdiesel

    macdiesel Greenie Member

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    I planned on doing a full how-to for a front wheel bearing, but I’ll be honest, winter in Wisconsin got the best of me. I’m sharing what worked for me. At the time the other forum had a how-to. 2 man job removing the knuckle to swap the bearing. This is a 1 man on vehicle how-to kinda sorta. Use your head, use your brain, be responsible for your own work.

    This isn’t very difficult if you take your time. Having an impact helps but it could be done with hand tools. I took my time and got it done in an afternoon. I wasn’t rushing and wanted to make sure it was right so I wouldn’t have to do it again for a good while.

    Tools:
    14mm socket
    15mm socket (Moog ball joint)
    17mm socket
    27mm socket
    32mm socket (axle socket)
    14mm wrench
    15mm wrench (Moog ball joint)
    I used 1/2” sockets and ratchets. You can use 3/8” on some bolts. I preferred 1/2” since I was impacting most all bolts.
    1/2” impact
    1/2” breaker bar with extension
    Snap ring pliers
    Hub puller
    Axle puller
    Ball joint separator
    Slide hammer 5lbs. The more weight the better.
    Wheel bearing installer/remover kit.
    Prybar
    PB Blaster
    Torch
    Something to hold the caliper out of the way. String, bungee cord, wire.
    Grease. I used Sil-Glyde.

    I rented some tools from Advance Auto. They had everything I needed that I didn’t get from Harbor freight. Pics of specialty tools
    E9020AAC-0A17-4B72-B09A-C808EB82AAC7.jpeg

    Harbor freight:
    5A8AFF35-A192-468B-BD62-0130F65F2693.jpeg
    CED0BFCB-8685-4277-B5F3-D6ECEB1E59B7.jpeg
    15E68BE4-67A1-4F7A-A0A9-76B85A7122B6.jpeg

    Torque specs:
    Wheel: 80-90ft/lbs
    Brake caliper bracket: 58-75ft/lbs
    Ball joint: 33-42ft/lbs
    Axle bolt: 175-202ft/lbs

    Parts:
    Snapring: Timkin RET166
    Axle bolt: Beck/Arnley 103-0519
    Hub: WB SPK003
    Wheel bearing: Timkin WB000028

    Install:
    1. Throw the bearing and hub in the freezer. Let it sit over night.
    C7C709A5-3ED7-4FBC-945E-02DCEB8737ED.jpeg

    What do you do with left over coffee?
    07249CBB-8148-4938-ACFE-B7AE363624F6.jpeg

    2. Chock wheels, raise front of vehicle, use jack stands, pop wheel off and place under car for additional safety.
    3. PB Blast bolts. I soaked the axle but. You could soak any bolt you touch if you want too. I’ve had the LCA/caliper off recently so I know it’ll come off no problem.
    4. Remove caliper (17mm socket) and hang out of the way.
    5. Pop up staked axle bolt. I used a small pry bar. A big screw driver could work.

    6. Zap the axle nut off. In the past I’ve used a 1/2” breaker bar with a long pipe on the end and stood on it. Slightly bouncing to break the bolt. Remember, righty tightly lefty Lucy.

    7. I turned the wheel to the right. I put the axle bolt back on and threaded on to protect the threads. I used a piece of wood and BFH and loosen the axle. I didn’t have to use hub puller but bought it just in case. If needed, bolt it to the hub and use a ratchet to push the axle in.

    8. Straighten out wheel and loosen ball joint bolt (14mm oem, 15mm Moog BJ replacement).

    9. Once the BJ bolt is removed you’ll need to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. You can use a ball joint separator, big pry bar, big ass hammer. I used a piece of wood and hammered it down. Like I said, I’ve had the LCA off recently so the ball joint popped out with little effort. I wouldn't suggest a ball joint pickle as it’ll destroy the ball joint bushing.

    10. Turn the wheel to right again and pop the axle out. Support it with something. Bungee cords help. I had a bad CV joint boot and was replacing anyway so I pulled the axle out.

    11. Reconnect the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a jack if necessary. Finger tighten the BJ bolt.

    12. Up next, getting the hub ready for removal. You can rent a tool that splices between the hub and the knuckle. I chose to use a slide hammer to pop it off. The axle puller i purchased didn’t fit over the center of the hub. So I used the hub puller instead. It didn’t bolt flush to the hub but it did bolt on more that the axle puller. So I threaded the slide hammer onto the hub puller. I don’t have a bolt size for the slide hammer. It was rented. I believe I finger tightened it and used a wrench to unbolt.
    73EB914B-B016-4A72-8882-6141AE444386.jpeg
    5FC7EEED-4965-4780-A5AD-63AB878222BC.jpeg

    13. Now that the slide hammer is on you’ll want to put some weight on the end. Keep it tight so all th force of the hammer is used. May take a awhile but you’ll feel it coming out. Part of the inner race will be on the hub. That’s normal.
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    14. Remove snap ring.
    3393723C-6123-4FCE-81E9-61238572C8FD.jpeg

    15. Now you’re gonna get the wheel bearing removal tool ready. 32mm and 27mm sockets will be used on tool. I failed to take a pic of the tool set up. You’re pulling the bearing out so you want to piece the tool together so the smaller disc will sit on the outer bearing race behind the bearing and a larger adaptor will sit over the bearing opening. You want the largest adaptor that will fit thru the knuckle. Reach your hand behind the bearing and you’ll feel the wheel speed sensor. Be mindful when finding a adapter to fit over the bearing race. When you tighten the tool you’ll feel the bearing move. If not, double check your set up. Use the supplied washers and oil of the threads. Using a breaker bar? Get that long ass extension out. I used an impact and slowly pulled the bearing out.
    51C9EDFB-C771-4C3A-8500-B3662530F2B4.jpeg
    Just an idea of washer/adapter orientation.
    1F8B6323-3546-4023-8746-3F0B46EDCE0B.jpeg

    16. Now that the bearing is out. Clean the knuckle. I cleaned snap ring area as well.
    CCC377DA-637D-4C6B-ACD7-58EA6361D238.jpeg

    17. Next set up the bearing press for installing. I used the old bearing to get the tool ready. Larger adapter behind knuckle. Smaller adaptor on bearing. Keep tool oiled too. Grab the bearing from the freezer. Lightly lube outside. Make sure magnetic side goes in first. The Timkin was green.
    3FCBFF8E-0C39-41CF-870F-FBC238E73E4B.jpeg

    Magnetic wheel speed ring. Oem.
    526250B2-BAAB-45B1-A0EA-FB98278E0523.jpeg

    18. Here is were you want to take your time. Make sure the bearing if going in straight. I used a small piece of wood and tapped it if with a hammer. Then, set the tool up and started drawing the bearing in. I used an impact but changed to a breaker bar towards the end. I wanted to feel the bearing bottom it in the knuckle.
    D1F5FEAD-56D0-4EBD-A097-5FCE25C1AE82.jpeg
    A370AE05-2BBF-48DF-8775-1AD2A26A6E58.jpeg

    19. Put in snap ring. This is an important step. I put it in the same position as oem.
    916145BE-DD9B-4419-9FF6-DA45852952AE.jpeg

    20. Grab the hub out of the freezer and lightly lube it up. Get the press situated. I used the same set, maybe changed an adapter for the hub. Again. Used a piece of wood to lightly tap the hub in. Then slowly drew the hub in with the tool. It’ll let you know when it’s in. Don’t over tighten.
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    A1D8C1E8-9372-4A7B-A0AC-A4EAB0EB0D4A.jpeg

    21. Disconnect the ball joint, turn the hub to the right and feed the axle thru. Reattach ball joint and tighten to 33-42ft/lbs

    22. Straighten hub and put axle nut on. I used a pry bar and wood to lock the hub in place so I could torque it down. 175-202ft/lbs.
    0C9F9E6C-25AE-4926-B81B-9965B71472BB.jpeg
    01AF8265-B118-4D40-863B-7948DDCE6375.jpeg

    23. Stack the axle nut. I used a one piece pry bar that I could hammer on. If you use a screwdriver it could explode. Be careful. Don’t forget this step. No bueno.
    933EFEC8-DFC1-45C9-BA78-4A92B5AAA4F6.jpeg

    24. Reconnect the caliper bracket. 58-75ft/lbs.
    25. Put wheel on. 80-90ft/lbs.
    26. Spin that wheel and listen to that smooth new wheel bearing.

    It’s not the end all be all install guide. Just passing along what worked for me. I didn’t want to remove the knuckle at all. And I didn’t feel like reusing the hub and cutting off the inner bearing race. With the price of the parts, it made sense to grab everything. All in all, with the exception of the cold, it wasn’t that bad.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2020
    macdiesel, via an iPad, Apr 4, 2020
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  2. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Thank you for posting this!
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Apr 5, 2020
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  3. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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  4. macdiesel

    macdiesel Greenie Member

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    Thanks @Raider and @JohnnyTightlips. A proper press is on my to-buy list. One reason for changing the bearing on vehicle was that I melted my wheel speed sensors and really didn’t feel like fiddling with them. They work, and have been working fine. But yeah, a press would be nice.

    AE64888C-7034-44B4-AC2B-55F3DCC066ED.jpeg
     
    macdiesel, via an iPad, Apr 6, 2020
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  5. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    @macdiesel, my passenger axle spline is 1/2 thread off. Literally jammed in. That means if I need it off, bigger job. New hub.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Apr 6, 2020
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  6. macdiesel

    macdiesel Greenie Member

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    Damn, did the splines twist?
     
    macdiesel, via an iPad, Apr 6, 2020
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  7. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Nope. It's just how my evil car was forged.
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Apr 7, 2020
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  8. BAT-man

    BAT-man BANNED Greenie Member

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    @JohnnyTightlips you noted the hub part number SK930003 while OP had WB SPK003, is that because you have gen1 and the OP has a gen2? Or are there no differences across the gens, and it's just a brand part number difference between SKP and WJB?

    btw, huge shoutout to macdiesel for showing how it can be done on the car, i also don't want to take the spindle off.

    Total part cost between amazon and rockauto was ~$140 shipped for 2 hubs/bearings/axle nuts/c clips. My bearings started whining at around 114k miles and at 116k are whining REALLY loud. Looking forward to tearing into this thing this weekend.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
  9. macdiesel

    macdiesel Greenie Member

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    Brand part number difference. Rockauto lists the same part numbers for various brands for both the gen1 and gen2.
     
    macdiesel, via an iPhone, Dec 7, 2020
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