JBR Adjustable Rear Camber Arm Install MS3 07

Big Aluminum Black metal Bits to install! {{What was in my mind when I saw New Products Page}}
So the Black Friday 15% meant spending more to get bigger discount !!
Liked Poly Bushing end, when you stare at yours..you see mucho rubber bush misalignment on chassis frame side.


link....https://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/s...ucts_id=1014&zenid=qergobeptt8f7ri1kck97e2pb4

SO HERE IS THE PSA ......Do Not try to install Right side first. Mine is a CA 2007 (build 08-06) MS3.
So Federal emissions may be different, but this problem spot...keep reading...I believe exists for all Models since Valve is part of all 3's Gas Tank Vent System.
I did try to install right side first because...first easy side in garage to attack. Then the paragraph warning above surprised and started a CRAP LOAD of pain.

Left side install is easy, use factory Manual and common sense. 19mm Ratchet Open end wrench will help alot (A must have for right side in my mind)
A hint I kept a little more (Outer end) Ball Joint shaft threads exposed to locking nut/left hand captive insert to allow easier (Some) adjustment while installed. Pic will show.


The only problem I find with this style of adjustment is a thin (flat metal) 19mm & 24mm open end wrench will make on car (wheels off) adjustment easier. The space is constrained by rear arm metal bits.


Now on to the Bi..h right side. Lots of searching found most just wrench, bend, mangle, destroy? bracket holding a VERY IMPORTANT bit. Valve that controls the Gas Tank vent, vent line to engine (tank vapors)
Amazing way Mazda did this, this valve controls gas neck filler venting. Seems web has lots of complaints on why my tank won't fill... wonder why.
My way of doing the job after trying to remove the long Long bolt for Chassis frame side without touching the Valve bracket. Big Fail. Just can't get that bolt head to gain space with out the freaking bracket out of the way...
Cursing Mazda on this obstacle and the many ways could have been avoided.
So here is the problem child>>> follow ruler<<< Will highlight the bolt to remove, valve to move away from
bolt head, plastic clips holding valve hoses to metal line.

I am a collector of bits and junk, tools too... So this modified tool worked. Bends just enough to clear frame rail at bolt head other end the frame rail. YES only one point of 12 point closed end head for movement of the freaking bolt. 6mm X 20mm So the bad news is 1mm thread pitch. 20X12=240 times for the bolt removal...if you are perfect
wrench in place>>
Getting close to removing that f....ng bolt>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Now my favorite phrase...Replace part and reverse directions for completion.
I did a quick dirty adjustment Left was -3' and Right was -2' now both 0'.
My tires are tired and so come spring......
Enjoy having done the left side first, was when done a better experience.

 

Hey man just wondering if i could grab an update or review of your driving experience with these and also if they are holding up well? Looking at getting a set for my mazdaspeed but we have very rough roads around my area, currently lowered on coilovers as well

 

They work, no failures. Haven't yet taken to a alignment, these would be a pia for a hourly tech to adjust, access to adjustment area is tight. No interference to Bilstein. Can't answer your questions on lowering though. Fortunately I haven't had to spend time under vehicle for any other reasons beyond install. While wheels are off, is a treat to see...$$$ ratio is high if you just want adjustability. Other options are talked about on this forum if money is tight, or frugal.
I do not notice additional vibes or noise with solid spherical joint ends.

 

Awesome thank you for that, may have to go another route as i need the tech to adjust and inspect them for the certification process, may go with the corksport ones but i read they hit the frame on slow dipped turns. I love the look on these ones though