Daily Driven Demon (Sleeper )

A few pics of the DIY Ethanol Sensor being made

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Logs look good. Still not a whole lot of timing or boost on e33. Gonna wake up a good bit once not on pump gas timing

 

Sweet!! I Can't wait!! I already got a new map from Justin. Which was crazy it was the next day after I sent the logs. I've never gotten it back that fast. Except maybe the base tune lol!! But it snowed overnight and temps have been in the teens. So I've just been chillin... Its supposed to be warm for a few days. So I'll be flashing the new map

 

Well didn't go as planned. I loaded new map and went to take logs and the cars hpfp keeps cutting out. Car will die ap reads in tank pressure only. I changed the harness twice now and the spill valve. It seems to act normal for a while. Than it starts again. You will be in boost and it will back fire and you look at the ap hpfp the little numbers (highest/lowest) the lowest number is in the 200.. or it says 0

Thought maybe it was pressure valve but it would go into boost at all.. and when it happens I pop hood unplug and replace un the hpfp and it goes away normally but last night I had to baby it home any real throttle and it start back firing and bucking. Wondering if I need to recheck the ground. I moved battery to the trunk. Seems to me like a ground issue the way it works normal and then just don't. But Messing with plug fixes it. Checking all battery related stuff 1st

 

Is there a source/link for the secondary board?

 

There is no secondary board the 2nd board your seeing in my picture in the back side of the oled screen.

 

OK...link to whatever oled screen worked for you?

 

Did you check the pressure relief valve?

 

Its the very 1st link i shared on the same post that has the how to video lol

 

No. How do u test it?

 

1. Get engine nice and hot (usually a short drive will do))
2. While parked, blip throttle to cause spike in HPFP pressure, then immediately go KOEO
3. Monitor HPFP pressure, it should climb all the way to crack pressure (~1800 PSI) before falling again

As the HPFP rail heatsoaks so does the fuel inside it, causing pressure to climb. If pressure never climbs when KOEO then either your PRV is done for or the engine wasn't nice and hot and you should try again.

 

Well I'm stuck. So today I made sure all ground connections at battery in trunk were tight and looked good. So i took the fprv off my other speed and it raised the hpfp idle pressure to 600 and after I blimped the gas it went back down to 400+

Went for drive same thing hesitation, popping,
So I switched the spill valve from other speed. It seemed to make the situation worse. Before I could drive just not go into boost or be heavy on throttle. But now its hesitating at all speeds.

Took a few logs of me driving around.

Warming up car now going to let the oil reach 200°F then that should be nice and warm to check hprv.

 

Sounds like you either didn't fully read or fully follow what I posted.

 

im trying it now but i already changed the fprv to a different one. but doing it now anyway

 

so i let it idle to get up to temp oil was at 200F i blipped the gas and turned it off. it didn't go up. then when i went to restart it, now the car just dies fp goes up to 1800 and it drops to 400 for a sec then it starts dropping until it below 100psi then the car dies and the ap only registers in tank pressure. 30 to 50psi.

data log is sitting idle and hitting gas

 

log of me trying to do the test and the car just dying.

 

Is it normal for the ap to have a zero on the hpfp lowest number seen. I've only ever seen the in tank pressure. Does that mean it's the in tank pump?

 

First log (datalog3):
Engine was still spinning until 1300x PSI, and it did slowly start climbing. PRV looks good at least until probably 1400 PSI, unless it's randomly sticking.

Second log (datalog1):
Except for the low rail pressure at the start (which could be anything) it looks pretty normal.

Third log (datalog2):
Rail pressure dropping to 40 suggests one of the three main components isn't working properly; either the HPFP internals are sticking, the PRV is sticking, or the spill valve is sticking. Still not quite enough info.

Some things to try:
Ideally:
Have someone local that's as close to HPFP expert status as you can get look your pump over, fully uninstalled. If you don't have anyone to do this for you, this isn't your only transportation, you can opt to mail your pump to me and I will break it down, clean it up and send it back to you at no cost other than shipping. As I'm due for a full HPFP cleaning anyways, I could also potentially run it on my car for a bit and see if it has issues, but this would extend downtime.

Realistically:
1. Pull the spill valve and actuate the pin using your thumbnail. Do this very carefully and see if you can notice if there's a breaking pressure. If it does, it's probably sticking and this can be the cause of the issue. If this is the issue then it will need to be cleaned; this is not for someone with little experience in doing so.

2. After pulling the spill valve, wick out as much fuel and whatnot from down inside the pump as you can; if you have a syringe with a metal needle, drain it fully and manually prime it using Redline Fuel Injector Cleaner (fill the HPFP up to the threads before putting the spill valve back in). If this fixes it, then your internals and/or spill valve were sticking, and you'll probably need to do a full teardown of the pump and clean it. Might also consider changing your oil.

3. Start the car, pull the spill valve connector and log the pressure; it will be running entirely off of the ITFP so any variances will be *exclusively* from that part. Note that you can't hard rev the engine like this, and it's likely to break up after ~3k RPM if you try to drive it like that, but it *will * run relatively reliably at very low loads and throttle levels. I drove several hundred miles like this and it took *minutes* to get up to normal freeway speeds. If pressure doesn't change much, then your ITFP is probably good.


As per your last question, it depends where the zero happens. There was one in your first log posted (datalog3) but I figure that's due to you going key off (AP didn't have data so defaulted to zero).

 

i did the test you mentioned. the in tank pressure is 45 to 50psi. is that normal for a walbro 525 in tank pump?

 

Depends on the regulator; if stock then yes for the most part.