street car gone road race

7600 is pretty wild and DEEP in the red when you are doing a pull. I always shift way too early.

 

Yea I’ve been keeping rpm up on the AP so trying to keep shifts at 7500. Believe it or not Will did not set any rev limiter. When I asked him he said a hard fuel cut at 7600rpm is no bueno lol so...yea I set the shift light in the AP and that’s now how I do it.

 

Update for y'all,

Cars been sitting for a little bit. I have had some weird issues with oil pressure since day one and ive finally tracked it down to be my oil pump. Car would make 150psi+ at 6500rpm during a pull, past 150psi my gauge doesn't read anymore so true max pressure was unknown...but it was way way too high. Theory is the bypass valve in the pump was either stuck shut, or just not working properly.

i did not want to swap the pump myself so i had my shop do it. Right away we found the pump that was in the bottom end was a china rockauto cheapest bidder wins pump. Had a freaking gasket on it between the oil pump and block. mazdaspeed motors require NO gasket here. Even ecoboosts(mustang, ST and RS) take NO gasket. We share the same pump however. I replaced the china pump with a tasca parts ecoboost pump. now my max PSI at 7500rpm is around 100-115psi. This is acceptable and i can live with this. awesome.

so this past weekend was a 3 day weekend. I picked my car up friday night from the shop. over this weekend i put ~300 miles on the car. Mostly hard miles, redline pulls, hard shifts, 7500rpm every single gear...solid. No issues. got oil temp up to 260f...oil pressure maintained around 10-15psi. Freaking beatuiful. even at 260f oil pressure is beautiful everywhere. I love it.

the car is making some sauce for sure, my most recent and final map from Will is only peaking 23psi, tapering to 21psi at 7500. This sucks cause i have NO fuel. Estimating the car is around 350-370whp, last season was around 310-330whp id estimate.

this thing is wild now. Its absolutely silly. every pull is just ear to ear grinning like an idiot. its awesome.

thing looks niceeeee



Rolling around on the street with race pads and RE71s is also silly...its just too much confidence to do stupidness. at no point am i like "i cant stop/slow down". naw, you hit the brakes the shit stops. no drama. I haven't even been able to set off ABS yet. the rear of the car is borderline lifting off the ground under HARD braking. Its actually pretty scary sometimes lol but i love it.

im finding with this new power and power band that im entering the same corners at SIGNIFICANTLY higher speeds. Although im braking at the same points im having to dig deeper into the pedal. I fried my glocs on the street twice this weekend, where as previously this wasnt an issue. Car is just that much faster now. I will be needing a brake pad upgrade this season for sure. Either Gloc R16, or Project MU. I am leaning towards trying the MU's though.

i need to get my brake ducts installed and get out to the track for a proper shake down soon. my biggest ongoing issues is trying to keep my hot side pipe for coming off. Every few pulls this thing is coming off, it sucks lol.

big ol ziptie trying to hold this pipe to the engine lift point. ive broken many regular zip ties trying to hold this. hopefully this big boy holds. i do have a longer coupler coming which should help. I will also be redoing my whole entire FMIC setup in the coming months. that should be awesome.




noticed some heat checking marks on the rotor in this picture...cant believe this is happening already and i havent even hit the track yet. just goes to show you how much heat you can really generate if you have enough tire to slow down at that rate. freaking crazy. need to get my brake ducts back on the car ASAP.

 

Wiggins clamps

 

There will be at minimum one of them in the new setup.

 

Have you considered using something like this (instead of zip ties) to attach to the engine hoist point? Stupid cheap, and may last longer than the zip ties.

Clamp:
https://www.mcmaster.com/3225T57/

I down selected a few options for these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/clamps/mat...ch/maximum-temperature~range~~-1525048957186/

edit: apparently those links dont copy/paste well. First link is a better idea. The second link is just stainless, inches, and over 250 deg F usage.

 

Two of those first link one on either side with a pies of metal between could help

 

Little update from the weekend,

fixed up my charge pipe. got a 4" long coupler to replace my 3" long coupler. this, with some hairspray seems to be doing the trick.


i hair sprayed the coupler and forgot to put the clamp on. almost couldnt pull the pipe out of the coupler lol. hair spray is like magic. Helps it slide on nice, then dries and acts like a glue.

new mounting solution. this will hold until i get my piping remade. its solid. i can move the motor before the pipe moves lol. the secret was a proper clamp. not a zip tie.


little bit of isolation there so the mount doesnt rub through my hotside(need to come up with something a little better). you can see i just wedged a piece of vinyl hose in there. it works but yesterday after cruising i noticed it was kinda melty and soft. need something better.


swapped my spark plugs out, typically do this after tuning is completed. these have about 2k miles on them? they look good. nice and even. all 4 matching. looks like my valve cover gasket is starting to go a little. no big.


went out for some good cruising the past few days. weathers been great. caught this awesome snap shot from a video clip i took for a buddy(to give him motivation to finish his build)

one word to describe the below...Happiness. basically sums that up.


lastly...my fprv died lastnight on my way home. i have a low KM one in my rail on my stock block. when i was swapping this motor in i thought to myself "should i swap the fprv with my known working one? naw its probably fine". lol well i was wrong. This also probably explains my p0300. possible causes include fuel delivery, fprv, all kinds of fuel related weirdness. Will go pull the fprv off my stock block and swap that asap.

need to get my oil cooler installed also. was only like 27c(80f) and after maybe 2 back to back 2-3-4 pulls oil temp is well into the 250s+ lol. insane. with more RPM comes more HEAT. oil choice really really matters now as does oil cooling. glad i went overkill on my oil cooler...should help when im feathering the throttle mid sweeper at 6500rpm with 1100rpm of WOT left to go LOL. oil cooker let me tell ya.

 

Out of curiosity, is there a table for desired heat range and oil pressures through the rpm range available for these cars?

 

Don't know about a table, but wasn't it standarish to have 25 psi at idle and +10 PSI per 1k rpm above that (for up to temp oil)

 

Naw. This is all old school thought process. 10psi/1000rpm is kinda the standard rule but modern engines and modern oils change that. It’s not so straight forward.

oil pressure as an absolute value doesn’t matter. It’s kinda like you either have it or you don’t. My friends brz has idled at 2-3psi for the last 3 track seasons. He comes off track hot AF and idle is literally 2psi LOL. Cooled down it’s back up to 10-15psi.

In our manual there is one check for “oil pressure”.
At an oil temp of 100c(212f) with rpm held at 3000rpm the pressure is to be between 43-79.9psi. That is it. The data I’ve collected from other built motor guys shows the value typically reads 50-60psi here.

 

Very interesting - speaking of the cooler, where do you think you will be mounting it now?

 

Mines going in the wheel well/fender area. There’s an enormous amount of space back there. With the GV grill and my little block off plate, the plan is to hole saw it to bring airflow to the cooler. Should
Be pretty trick and out of the way of anything up front(fmic, rad)

 

Oil cooler will go on the driver side, just in front of the fender liner. I’ll probably have to cut some holes in the liner to allow the exiting air from the oil cool to escape but this is the plan for now.

will either remove the block off plate or hole saw it and run like 4” ducting to the cooler

 

You could also feed it from inside the grill, a hole on the side would still feed off the high pressure air in front of the radiator but you would give up the little bit of ram air effect. If you had reservations about cutting up the grill

 

I see what you’re saying. The thing with what I’m trying to modify on the grill is it’s a removable piece I made myself out of abs plastic. So I could always make another if I don’t like it. The pieces circled in yellow are just little plates I made. No big hole sawing one.

however it would look better if i didn’t have a random hole there. I may try to make it work by pulling air from the main grill. My intercooler is going to be getting moved up soon, and I’ll make some proper ducting. Will see what I can do.

 

I forgot what that grill originally looked like. You at least have options. Just make sure there is a way for the air to get out of the fender so you actually get flow

 

Yea. Planning to just cut the liner. That should do it. I’m still thinking about all this but that’s my current plan anyways. Unless any better suggestions on where to mount the cooler?

 

It's a good spot, I just wonder what the pressure differential is between the grill area and the wheel well

 

im hoping its ok. High pressure in front of the cooler(from the grill) Low pressure behind the cooler, from whatever hole i cut in the fender liner. Ill be able to gauge effectiveness just based on how well it cooled last year, mind you it will be working much harder this year.