Built 5862 I Just Wanna Go Fast (Formerly Known as Mazdazilla's Build Thread Thingy)

Some guy in australia on the old forum had a nightmare of a problem connecting the hoses. Thats all i know.

 

Nothing too major to report. Tuning is going steady, ran into some spark blowout issues but it ended up being the copper rods in the coil packs. After going back to stock coils it went away, I suspect one might have been a bit too short. Also, I picked up a dashhawk and made a gaugepod mount for it

 

I swapped back from copper the same reason, and after trying multiple sets, I'm not convinced it was due to length

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I nabbed Geoff's coils to be sure that was it. Did you replace the whole coil or just go back to springs? It did also occur to me that these are high mileage coils and might just be nearing the end.

 

I used 2 different sets of coils I had. I was looking into some sort of proper testing, but I never got to it.

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Took the car out last night to run errands. Keyed on and noticed I didn't hear the secondary fuel pump priming. Relays clicks on/off for the prime but the pump ain't pumping anything. Popped the hood and sure enough, pressure regulator reads 0 with the engine running. Checked all fuses, jumped the relay, checked wires and ground and all of it seems fine. Going to pull the pump and try putting 12V to it and see if it runs. Not the end of the world since I haven't started using that pump yet but it looks like it might be time for a Wally...

 

Update time, yanked the a DW300 a couple weeks ago and dropped a Wally 450 in its place. Secondary fuel system is back up and running great. Confirmed DW pump was shot by hooking it straight to a battery, didn't even attempt to spin.

Still working on the 93 tune with PD, hoping to have that squared away and starting on and E50 tune in the next couple of weeks.

Going to be dropping my Sparco R100 into the car after I get my garbage seat bracket modified to fit better. That should hopefully cut a tad bit of weight. Still need to see if any of the local tracks have scales, I want to see where I'm at for race weight.

Car is going into the body shop next monday to get a new bumper cover. Nailed a coon a few weeks ago and he did a number on the plastics.

Hopefully ordering up everything in the next week or so for slimmer front brakes in order to fit my 16" radials.

Made it out to the track two weekends ago but had a shit time, nothing but problems. Going again in a couple weeks and hoping to be a bit more prepared and get some actual results.

Oil pan drain plug threads are about half there so the pan is leaking. Need to drop it sometime soon and helicoil it. Also bought a Massive Speed oil pan baffle to install while I'm in there.

Lastly, retitled the thread to be a bit more fitting. I sold the twinscroll turbo kit yesterday. I will return to a twinscroll setup after I have more disposable income in the next year or so.

 

oil pan: you could also simply weld a nut to the outside of the pan, or drill and tap to a larger size. I personally would not like to have a helicoil on something i have to take in and out regularly. Also i look at helicoils as an "in place" type of repair, if you were planning on removing the pan you have more permanent options for repair.

weight: around here the county dumps are open to residents, if you have to go into the bulk section which is typically more for trash trucks and commercial refuse (ie people who have to pay to dump) there are typically scales so that they can weigh trucks on the way in and out to get a net weight of the trash and bill them accordingly. You could go to the dump and weigh the car, it should be close enough for this.

 

If you need a HeliCoil kit, I'll send you the one I purchased for the RMM job that I did not end up needing. You can send it back once the repair is completed. M14x1.50 pitch is the correct size for the oil pan and RMM bolts.


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Pan is Al, would be hard to find a nut that would work. I consider Helicoils a permanent repair, it's somewhat common for some manufacturers to helicoil certain holes from the factory because it's stronger than Al. The largest issue is I can't drill out the old threads without dropping the pan. The drill can't drill square to the hole without hitting the subframe first.

Thanks, I've already got the helicoil kit. I think I posted on your thread offering it to you lol.

 

Oh, well okay then. I need to work on my communication skills. Dammit.

 

Helicoils are not stronger than aluminum (or plastic or anything they are in) they are a thread, just like a screw. This phasing bugs me as I have customers all the time that want me to helicoil plastic as it will be "stinger" No it wont, the threads will rip out the same. But, if you are taking a bolt off and on it will not wear and yeild like a plastic will over time. In this aspect it is stronger, but I prefer the term "tougher"

just wanted to make sure you know that any "strength" is negligible. (diameter changes, contact area, ect)

 

I agree with you in practice, but not in principle. Helicoils are rarely fully engaged inside and out. The uneven loading usually fucks all the math up. However, increasing the shear area of a thread does make it stronger. There's literally an equation to calculate how much more strength you get.

 

Not disagreeing that they are a bit stronger. I alluded to that, but maybe wasnt clear. In my work, I have customers that seems to think that adding a steel helicoil to a plastic block, will now give the threads the strength as if they were holding in steel. Then the bolt rips out with the helicoil attached. So when I say stronger, I think Im talking more on an exponential scale (steel vs plastic) and not a smaller scale of engagement area.

Its just something Ive come across more than a few times in my work and I hate to see stuff fail because of people making wrong assumptions. In the case here with the helicoil into the aluminum. It will be just as strong as it needs to be as the materials were both strong enough before.

 

I get your point now, and agree. You're still at the mercy of the properties of the base material.
I detest the damn things. Use a keyed insert wherever possible.