cmosh07's 5858 Build

I had originally started this thread on MSF, but decided to post it here as well. (Sorry to those of you that have already seen it.)
I think it's finally time to create one of these for my on going build.

The story behind it all:
I bought a 2007 black mica ms3 from a used car dealership back in February of 2015. Exactly a week later the car bent two rods from a blown turbo leaking oil. I took the car back to the dealership, from there they told me to take it to a shop and have the knock diagnosed. So the shop tore the car completely apart (not labeling any bolts, nuts, etc.) After the shop came to a conclusion on what had happened and how much it would cost to replace the engine the dealership basically told me I was on my own from that point. So I took it upon myself to take the car back to my garage and just do a full build.

Parts:
-Precision vband 5858 dbb, .82ar hotside, 4in inlet, 3in outlet
-Precision 46mm wastegate
-k1 connecting rods
-wiseco pistons
-king rod and main bearings
-H11 headstuds
-oem headgasket
-full vvt kit
-custom exhaust manifold
-custom 3in downpipe
-custom underrouted intercooler piping
-htp 4in intake
-Battery relocate to hatch
-devils own meth injection 300psi pump
-Do7 nozzle (x2)
-Aem methonal controller
-Damond motorsports pcv plate
-Kozmic motorsports vented occ
-Custom Sealed occ
-Kozmic oil return line
-Kozmic oil feed line
-Damond full engine mount set
-Southbend stage 3 endurance clutch
-treadstone tr8 intercooler
-GoFastBits BOV
-Corksport 3.5bar map sensor
-Cobb apv3
-bride shift boot
That's all that I can think of off the top of my head. I will update if anything else comes to mind.

Most of these pictures are going to be potato phone quality so I apologize ahead of time.







Now on to the goodies:

 

Nice build so far!

 

Just a little update picture. I've got everything except transmission fluid, basemap, and a little key on no power issue. I'm sure it's something simple I just keep looking over. I also found a killer deal on this jmf that I couldn't pass up.



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Tap the starter solenoid with a hammer.

 

By no power I mean no power anywhere, no lights on the dash, no fuel pump turning on, nothing... lol

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Oh well that's a bit more. Try a sledge hammer?

Check the main fuse.

 

You relocated your battery to the trunk? How did you run the wires back to the engine bay?


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Looks badass man


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I cut the battery terminal off the factory positive side, tied into it, ran it underneath the car all the way to the hatch. Grounded the factory ground terminal to the frame. Grounded the battery in the trunk to where the spare tire usually mounts. I've got power at the factory positive terminal where I tied in, but no power past that point. Not even in the fuse box.

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Is your battery dead?

If not, I would concentrate more on grounding being the issue. We would both assume that just grounding to the unibody constitution would be sufficient, but I am willing to bet that it's not. Try to add some more grounds. Try a seatbelt mounting bolt as one and/or run a wire to the sub frame. If all fails, why not run another juicy ground wire from your engine bay to your battery.


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Battery is not dead, I have 12.6 volts under the hood, at the positive cable I tied into. I've tried multiple different grounding points, as well as running a cable straight to the battery from the factory negative... still nothing. Not even a dome light lmao.

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You're breaking my brain man.


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Problem solved [emoji41] apparently I thought the positive cable coming out of the fuse box was a ground. Thought, "what the hell, I'll hook it to the positive." And wala, let there be light!


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Transmission fluid [emoji818]

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Ha ha!!! Nice. I'm glad you didn't think that negative cable was positive. Might have turned your wires into a melty shorted mess.


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Yet another issue rises... went to install AP to the car and it won't recognise the ECU. I thought maybe I damaged one of the pins while checking for power so I went ahead and replaced the port and all pins (total of like $12.) Still won't recognise it. Any ideas on where to start with that one??

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I think I may have found the reason as to way a code reader or my AP won't communicate to my ECU. Whenever I turn the key to the on position the "engine immobilizer" light flashes rapidly. (This is the light that looks like a car with a key on it) if I understand correctly this basically means that my key code isn't communicating with my ECU? Kind of like the ECU thinks the car was stollen. Does anybody know of a way to fix this??

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Try checking your fuses. Can you start the car? The obd2 and the cluster communicate to the ecu via high speed can wires. Maby reseat the plugs for the ecu? Is everything plugged in?

 

Hauled the car to the stealership yesterday... Sure enough, they're computer won't communicate with the ECU. With a whole trip an hour away I hauled the car back home. The immobilizer light is throwing code 16 "communication error with PCM (no response)"
I've checked the condition of all the wires going to the PCM itself, they all look brand new. I've checked all my grounding points, all are securely connected. All pins are in the correct place on the obd port itself, I'm leaning towards the PCM being fried. (Possibly caused from the positive fuse box cable being grounded before??)
Any input on this at all is greatly appreciated.

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I had a short in a wiring harness before and it fried my ECU, I don't recall all the symptoms, tho the immobilizer light was one of them.
Eventually got a new harness and it still didn't work. Next thing was testing stuff, one of the things done was to see if it was getting spark, it wasn't so we chalked it up to the PCM not sending signal to, got a replacement one, got it programmed, and everything worked.

So in short start checking for signal.

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