Code P2507 and also identify this connector

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Troubleshooting' started by Kodey A, Jun 4, 2024.

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  1. Kodey A

    Kodey A Greenie N00B Member

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    Good afternoon everyone,

    I picked up my first speed 3 a couple days ago.

    2007 Mazda speed 3, 128,000 miles.

    Been going through wiring and fixing some
    Minor issues that I can find off the bat.

    Anyone have any experience with code p2507?

    I pulled the fuse box apart and I have no corrosion for the pmc power wire and fuses are all fine. Don’t wanna dive deep into wiring harnesses if I don’t have to yet

    Also I found this plug on the left side of the steering wheel unplugged. (Ignore those Soldering, original driver had a turbo timer. It has been removed and wires fixed.

    And the starter relay is grounded out. If I remove the ground the car will not crank.

    Any help on any of these issues will be greatly appreciated!


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    Kodey A, via a mobile device, Jun 4, 2024
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  2. Pyrannha

    Pyrannha Silver Member

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    Starter relay shoudl be ground until powered by the pcm for start signal I do believe. As far as your P2507 code, first step is test the battery and clean or replace the terminals. I can't really tell from your picture but they don't look super shiny and new, I'd do that first. Form there the other easy thing is to test the alternator, make sure it's not over or under charging.

    From there is get a bit more complicated, pulling from Identifix it looks like you would next need to check powers and grounds to the PCM.

    Powers are pins 1BA Red, 1BE Green/Orange, 2BE and 2BF Red/Blue, grounds are pins 1AZ, 2H, 1BH, 1BD, 1BG and 1BB Black. You should be able to light a test light bulb on the powers and have good continuity to the negative battery terminal on the grounds.

    This link looks like the right wiring diagram - I just googled for that
    https://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/att...iagram-2007-mazdaspeed3-ecu-connector-pin.pdf

    Lastly, identifix says to try a battery reset procedure, remove the battery cables and hold them together for a half hour. If the code still sets, the PCM has likely failed.

    My personal opinion is that it's basically never the PCM. I've been managing shops for about 10ish years now and I can honestly say that of the times I've had a tech tell me a car needed a PCM it's only ACTUALLY needed a PCM like 3 or 4 times.
     
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