Covert Speed 3 to Speed 6 Slave Cylinder + Stainless 3an Lines

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 How-To' started by JohnnyTightlips, Nov 7, 2019.

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  1. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    UPDATE: 4/2020
    After using this for a while it appears that the speed 6 bore is not going to work with the speed 3 master cylinder. It creates too much pressure for the master and screws it up. You can use this guide to make your own 3an line setup but for now this is not a solution.


    The speed 6 slave is pretty cheap, reliable and rebuild able. I was looking to do stainless lines to replace my 155k miles rubber lines and figured I could covert to that as well. @CMajor Had installed the 6 on his and it was working well so I decided to go for it.

    Tools needed
    I decided to convert the hard line right off the master cylinder to have a fitting on in so that I could run a 3an stainless line all the way to the slave. Here are some pics on how I did it. If you have never used a double flare tool , watch a couple youtube vids. I made a bracket to hold it in place as well but don't really have a great pic.

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    Last edited: Apr 24, 2020
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  2. Sho

    Sho Gold Member

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    Heres the shorter mounting bolts needed for the slave if you don't wanna chop the ms3 mounting bolts or use washers as spacers
    0419181519_01.jpg
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Dec 17, 2019
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  3. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    So what is the motivation behind this swap?

    Is it just cheaper long term and more durable?

    Or did you guys gain a longer stroke from the MS6 slave cylinder?
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Dec 17, 2019
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  4. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    Stroke *lol* seems the same. I wanted a solid line and not rubber "high miles" so I figured why not convert as it's also cheaper and supposedly more durable. This is what i got.
    Dorman CS650069 Clutch Slave Cylinder
     
    JohnnyTightlips, via a mobile device, Dec 17, 2019
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  5. macdiesel

    macdiesel Platinum Member

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    Said and done what was the total cost to convert to speed6 slave?


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    macdiesel, via a mobile device, Dec 20, 2019
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  6. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    Maybe 100$ tops. That's if you don't have a flaring tool but none of the parts are crazy expensive.
     
    JohnnyTightlips, via a mobile device, Dec 20, 2019
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  7. macdiesel

    macdiesel Platinum Member

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    That’s a good option since the cost is similar to a new speed3 slave. I wish a rebuild kit was offered for the speed3. I lost my clutch pedal earlier in the week and started researching solutions. Just needed new fluid. I guess bleeding the clutch twice in 128k is not enough.


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    macdiesel, via a mobile device, Dec 21, 2019
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  8. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    How are you bleeding it?

    Hydraulic clutches are real finicky if even the slightest bit of air is in the system, considering the whole system has a low fluid capacity to begin with.

    I've noticed this with both the Speed and the Mustang. The mustang I power bleed 4-5 times (internal slave, it's a bitch to get the air out), the speed just 2 or 3. It sounds tedious, but it does give you a nice consistent pedal.

    I think Phate was the one that provided a good tip about it a while back. That is to power bleed the system, then pump/operate the pedal a few times slowly and then fast. Then repeat the bleed.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Dec 21, 2019
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  9. Sho

    Sho Gold Member

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    Its got a metal piston instead of plastic guts lkke the ms3.

    And the ms6 slave is completely rebuildable unlike the ms3.
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Dec 21, 2019
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  10. macdiesel

    macdiesel Platinum Member

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    How are you bleeding it?

    Hydraulic clutches are real finicky if even the slightest bit of air is in the system, considering the whole system has a low fluid capacity to begin with.

    I've noticed this with both the Speed and the Mustang. The mustang I power bleed 4-5 times (internal slave, it's a bitch to get the air out), the speed just 2 or 3. It sounds tedious, but it does give you a nice consistent pedal.

    I think Phate was the one that provided a good tip about it a while back. That is to power bleed the system, then pump/operate the pedal a few times slowly and then fast. Then repeat the bleed.[/QUOTE]




    I read that bleeding the slave was finicky. And I was unaware of Phates recommendations. I used a mittyvac hand pump and pumped up to 20 and cracked the bleeder. Then I’d keep the pump above 15 and close the bleeder. Then fill the reservoir with fluid. Then I’d slowly pump the clutch a few times. Towards the end I started the car and pumped. First fluid came out black and pedal finally had some pressure.

    Rinsed and repeated a bunch. Bled half of the large brake fluid bottle.

    I’d have to check my records when I changed the fluid last, possible last spring, but I know I did about 30 autocross events since last spring.




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    macdiesel, via a mobile device, Dec 21, 2019
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  11. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    I just set the power bleeder to 20 psi and let it do the job for like 1 min or two. I did this when it was completely empty after the rebuild and it worked great. I have done it a few times that way even for the brakes and never had to touch the pedal. Not sure why you guys need such an elaborate process.
     
    JohnnyTightlips, via a mobile device, Dec 21, 2019
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  12. macdiesel

    macdiesel Platinum Member

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    I spent a little more time than usual only because it’s cold in Wisconsin and I don’t feel like dropping the CS skidplate again. At least not in the winter.


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    macdiesel, via a mobile device, Dec 22, 2019
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  13. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    @macdiesel

    I made my own pneumatic power bleeder out of my Leakdown Tester, a gallon of Arizona Iced tea, and a master cylinder cap from Motive. I set it to 10psi and bleed the brakes, then the clutch. Brakes take a grand total of 20 minutes to bleed all 4 corners, and the clutch takes me just over 5 minutes.

    For the clutch I power bleed it for a minute or two until the fluid starts coming out clear, then cease pressure and vent. I step on the clutch a few times, then repeat the bleed.

    It sounds tedious, but it is actually stupid simple and the compressor does all the work. I've tried the mityvac method several times, pump it to 20vac, I let it drop to 5 before I close the bleeder. Never been happy with the bleed. Since I switched to power bleeding, have not had any issues.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Dec 22, 2019
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