CP-E Motor Mounts, Should you Buy?

So I'm going to swing a little bit from CP-E's nuts here but I want to get this out there.

A long long long time ago when I was "fully bolted" and "stage bro" I heard CP-E made good products but I couldn't see myself spending 6-700 bucks on motor mounts while other companies such as JBR and CS had more affordable mounts.

I purchased the JBR trilogy set up and at the time I knew it vibrated a lot but I was okay with it for the most part.

Fast forward to building the motor and installing a 5862, and a very important detail this was around the time JBRs crap started to surface about mount failures. So I got rid of those mounts as fast as I could.

Bought a CP-E stage 2 RMM, CS PMM, and a CP-E TMM. Again it vibrated a lot but it wasn't so bad (keep in mind I have no balance shaft at this point) (also keep in mind I didn't drive the built motor on JBR mounts) I loved the set up the way it was for the most part, wasn't unbearable to drive with the vibrations BUT something with having the CS PMM and the CP-E TMM my motor sat at like a 5* angle, nothing crazy but it was noticeable enough that people could point it out and ask why my motor is on an angle.

So another fast forward to pulling the motor, cleaning the bay and putting on a 6266. At this point I had gotten rid of my CS PMM and bought a CP-E PMM. (so now I am aware of the vibs of other mounts without a BS)

I will say that "the settling period" of all three CP-E mounts was quite rough longer than having different mounts but after this period of time the vibs became less and less noticeable even with a BSD. Was in love with them!

Now for the reason you read all this, I got into my buddies car down a the dragon during ENM and he had some of the above mentioned mounts but he did have a CP-E gen 1 mount in the rear. But holy mother of god I don't know how he can drive this car on a daily basis, its almost painful (he is BT and has a build motor with a BSD, almost the same exact build as me, hell its my old turbo haha)

So moral of the story is CP-E motor mounts are way over engineered to work with the movement of the motor while other companies mounts actually try to fight it creating a very uncomfortable drive.

If you look at other mounts VS the CP-E mounts you will see what I mean, the poly is in the perfect spots on their mounts. So they can use a little lighter duro on their bushings but since they are well placed they are more effective than other companies hard ass poly bushings.

YOU PAY FOR GOOD ENGINEERING! bottom line you wont regret the extra money they charge.

 

Good info. I had some JBR mounts but eventually swapped to all Damond mounts. I finally don't get the infamous 2nd-3rd FFS lockout anymore, LOL. That's probably due to having a TMM now too. Anyways, have any experience that you could compare the CP-e mounts to Damond ones?

BTW, what's "Stage Bro"?

 

I do not have any experience with damond mounts, I have his pcv plate and love it, at the time I bought the CP-E mounts he had only released his RMM and after the CS/CP-E mount making my motor not level I decided to stick to one company for all three mounts. I do believe his mounts are very much up to par though.

"Stage bro" is basically bolting on to stage 2 according to cobb and running an OTS map and thinking your car is fast as shit. Where I am from most WRXs and STIs are like this so we enjoy making fun of them.

 

LOL, stage bro makes sense. People come up to me talking about stage 1, stage 2, etc. They they ask what stage I am. I guess I'm like stage 5? Haha? It's hard to quantify. All of the flow mods bringing air into the engine are addressed (besides IM); same with all of the mods for air exiting the engine (besides EM). I have a BNR S3 that's ethanol tuned and I also spray methanol. And that's just power mods. Suspension, brakes, appearance, other personalization, sound system, custom work, etc.... the idea of "stage" went out the window long ago.

My Speed basically has everything done to it on stock block. Next level is built motor, bigger turbo, better clutch, more fuel and maybe an IM/EM. so whatever stage that is, I guess that's what I am.

 

Yeah. My buddy bought one, had it for 3k miles and decided to trade his car. Sold it to me almost brand new, not even 7 months later is broken. Contacted them but no receipt no warranty. Understandable.... But didn't last 7 months.


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I did a DM RMM, then did DM PMM and CS TMM insert, then switched in cpe s2 RMM, then switched to cpe PMM. So other than the TMM, I have direct experience with Damond vs. CPE, keep in mind I have the 60 duro PMM. That because cpe said if I broke it they'd switch me for the 75 under warranty.

Shifting performance was a touch better with Damond. Vibes-wise the Damond stuff was fine. But the conducted noise from the cabin drove me nuts on the DM stuff. And for the RMM the Damond transmits the off-throttle 2700-3k vibration as a noise that bothered the shit out of me and sounds just like low level compressor surge. With the CPE s2 and DM PMM, GF actually said she was happy with it. But once I finally got the cpe PMM on it was a breath of fresh air; the car was suddenly civilized again.

Between that and my new tires that have great noise performance and I am loving driving my car.

 

http://cp-e.com/webstore2/product/mazda3mazdaspeed3-xflex-passenger-side-motor-mount/ ($315)
http://cp-e.com/webstore2/product/mazdaspeed3-xflex-driver-side-motor-mount/ ($285)

These do look nice. I notice that the TMM has the carrier bearing rotated 90 degrees compared to the Damond. I wonder if @Farhan@DM or @Matt@DM could speak more to why they chose transverse instead of longitudinal orientation:
https://damondmotorsports.com/collections/mazda/products/transmission-motor-mount ($255).

Besides that, the TMM basically looks identical in how the load is oriented/distributed. Damond's are a good deal less pricey than the CP-e ($30-$60 less, depending on the mount). I also notice how CP-e uses that rubbery type of bushing material instead of Damond's polyurethane selection. I like the fact that CP-e has a lifetime warranty on theirs, but not that you have to be mountless as you ship it off to them and wait for it back. And I've seen that rubbery material tear more than once. The Damond ones are OTS and can easily be done at home, but they strike me as very durable. I do like, however, the multiple durometer options of CP-e.

Both products look solid, with several advantages appearing to be on one set, and other advantages on the other. I can tell you this:
I'm fully Damond mounted and am VERY satisfied with how it handles my 385/380 @ the wheels and gets it to the ground. Is it perfectly NVH free? Most certainly not. But I didn't expect it to be with it as rock-solid as it is.

My .02.

 

You gotta hold out for sales, good discounts available.

The fact that cp-e is using EPDM (a type of rubber) rather than polyurethane (a type of plastic) is what really changes the cabin noise performance. In the case of the RMM, it's obvious from the youtube videos that it also allows a good bit more movement.

I can't speak to anything about the cpe TMM other than to note that they have had some problems with the screws backing out, then catastrophic failure as all the screws failed. I know that problem is largely fixed with red threadlocker and doubly so with their new anti-back-out plate. Nonetheless I thought it best to skip that mount and just use the CS insert.

Truth be told, I only replaced the PMM prophylactically against the engine compartment splooge. I can say one thing, that I thought the Damond one's steel bracket was heavy duty. Holy crap the cpe one is made from tank armor thickness steel.

NVH wise, my mount setup is actually remarkably close to stock. My summer setup is quieter than stock, actually.

My opinion is that you just have to pick a direction to go, soft to harder or harder to softer, then go. I decided to try the highest performance thing I thought was well engineered first, which would be the DM stuff (and it also happened to be less costly). Well I didn't like the result so I backed off to the softer choices. I'd add to all this that, at least as far as RMM and PMM I would only ever recommend the DM and CPE mounts (excluding the cpe stage1 rear).

 

Been reading a bunch on all the different RMM. After reading around here, there and everywhere the faves seem to be the Damond the the CP-E Stage 2. Looking for a useful gift for my kids birthday. After reading I’m leaning towards the CP-E as it seems it performs just as well or better than the DM and lower NVH to boot. Can anyone on here confirm any of this? I’m a sucker for long term first hand knowledge.

 

Damon's has a more durable bushing.

Cpe was more popular when they only had the stage one but the bushing material is the same and people were constantly having to deal with bad bushings

Personally I blew out the bushing in a stage 1 for in about 45k miles of commuting. My Damond has about 60 on the bushing and is still fine

 

@Easter Bunny how would you compare them performance wise and NVH wise?

 

I had the stage 1 cpe so not exactly what your question is but the Damond is much quieter and works better in my experience

 

My engine has balancer delete. Diamond PMM and TMM with a CPe stage one RMM. First had Diamond race now have street bushings. 70 mph 6th freeway I measure approx 93 dB (no filters) If I was going to track car would keep as is. Now have returned PMM to oem and am happiest ..same stretch of road 90dB. Measurements were just to validate my perception of less noise. Going to buy a Diamond RMM to see if that stiffens just a little bit more with oem PMM. My goal is the body rattle, drumming, suspension bump compliance is more dependent on PMM, so that why the softer CPe RMM will be replaced with Diamond to get more stiffness with comfort.

 

I forgot cpe even made stuff for us. They up and left the platform when the speed was ended if I recall. Mind you I worked with them back in like 2006 for forum stuff. Those guys left and I lost most all contact.
And like Mr Bunny, back when options were slim, their bushings had issues. I waited for and got mine after a year of waiting. Sold it a year later for JBR. After 80k, the bushings were tired and I went to Damond. Super happy with the results. Now have all 3 an vibes are under control.

 

They still list stuff for a few Mazdas, but starting to lean towards the Damond mount as a gift, although the CP-e Stage 2 mount is intriguing.

 

If you're looking for less vibes/ noise it's pretty common for folks to run upgraded rmm and pmm with stock tmm especially given the failure rate that the OEM PMM can have. Food for thought

 

So some more feedback. As I said, my vibes were unacceptable with new built engine / balancer delete. Damond (race bush) PMM TMM and CP-e TMM. So went to oem PMM others stayed. Was tolerable on vibes, for me its also a body thrumming sound that was like hell to my crappy Tinnitus.
After change out of Damond bushings to street duro much better, but still....not good enough so oem PMM back in.
Now 2k breakin on engine build, and opportunity to get better oem engine bracket (with oem bushing) and TMM from my other creampuff 64k 08 speed 3. I went to street bushed Damond TMM PMM oem rmm and happiest. Best compromise with best steering under max hp, feathering throttle. Vibes are acceptable.
Bonus the CP-e in place of 08's oem rmm was not noticable but torque steer was much reduced from completely stock. And i didn't spend more$$$.
When oem RMM blows out (quickly?) rock auto ford replacement will go in.

 

I'll put in my experience, FWIW on my MS6. On my previous motor, I had the ultra crappy AWR mounts, and balance shaft delete. The vibs were UNBEARABLE. For a while, I also had the non-standard Turbine Tech FRONT (fourth!) motor mount. And when I had that, I felt like I was just sitting on top of the engine with my balls slapping on it. I eventually threw away that front mm.

For my current build, I opted to keep the balance shaft this time because of my last experience. I got the Damond set. And I got them before the street inserts were available, so I got race. I also have CPE rearward rear diff mount and Turbine Tech frontward rear diff mount. And my vibs are... nonexistent. Feels like an average car. Even with the Race inserts! Completely satisfied. Although most people seem satisfied with Damond, for some reason I got even better results than most people, perhaps due to my retaining the balance shaft.

If of any interest to anyone, Corksport makes a transmission mount insert that you use in conjunction with the stock TMM rather than replace it entirely. In theory causes less vibs than a complete replacement. (Though it couldn't be any less than I have now with the Damond as far as I can tell...) But I figured I would mention it if anyone was interested. Modest price. I actually might have considered it if I knew it existed before I bought the Damond. But I'm happy with what I have.

I know everybody hates SU, and I currently don't have any SU parts on my car. But, their mounts actually look nice, but no idea how good they are. Honestly, I might have considered them if Damond's didn't exist.

 

I'm awaiting delivery of MS6 CS TMM Insert, will install during summer.
Why? Because I had JBR TMM together with BSD.. The sound of that South Bend Clutch made my soul die ☠️ Now on all oem mounts and life is good again