Daily Driven Demon (Sleeper )

The S4 is a pretty loud turbo, I can definitely hear mine whistling at cruise even when it's still just a little bit into vacuum and not even actually hitting boost.

T51 mod sounds roudy af but would get overbearing on a daily driver, imo.

 

I wonder how loud the cst4 is? I'm hoping I can hear it really well without boost too

 

The CST4 makes really good sounds too, just not quite as loud as the S4

 

This is true. My s4v1 was a lot louder than my current BW s257sxe. I don't mind it all though

sent from tapioca

 

Yeah I really miss the sound of the S4!! So Bad!!! But the T51 mod don't hit that spot for me, The tone is too high pitched. The S4 just puts out the perfect tone . But the S4 wasn't going to take me to the goal of 700Hp

 

I hear you there for sure.. I like that lower spooling whirling sound of the turbo wayy more than the high pitched whistle sound of the T51R mod. I'm pretty sure the old forum had a thread about which turbo produced the loudest choo choo noises. Would enjoy it if people chimed in on a thread like that here honestly. I was a turbo that is really loud that will achieve 550-600 without blowing itself to pieces lol

 

I got the new Guardian Angel installed and its working great!!

So I got the new set of DSS stage 2 axles and the low profile bushings in. So I tore down both rear subframes and after inspecting the differential that was in the new car. I found it had be replaced from the junk yard (there was number written in the pen jack yards use) and a few of the fins were busted.

The new diff axle seal had not come in yet. So I just took the diff from the old car and moved it over to the new one and installed everything. Heres a few pictures of the new cars diff from junk yard before removal.



Here a few pics of tear down and after assembly:





I'm running the Damond Motorsports Stage 3 OCC Kit with the damnod Pcv Plate. Well I found that the driver side OCC the vented one was spraying oil out the vent. So I started looking around and rechecking and I found that I looked at wrong diagram on the damond website and I hooked the driver side OCC up wrong. I hooked it up for the medium HP whoops so I hooked it up like this:


Instead if like this:




I took a couple logs and sent them off to Justin. That finished up the 91 tune. The cars feels Great!, City driving is Fun!! but on highway 80+ feels lacking and that's where I live so hoping the E85 wakes it up... I already got the new E33 tune.. got to fix the OCC then its off to the gas station for 1st E85 fill... I Can't Wait !!!!

But I'll add the logs I sent to Justin to finish 91 tune!

 

So here is a few videos I grabbed of the end of the 91 tune.

Banging gears


This is a 3rd pull


This is a 4th gear pull

 

And just a short tame exhust and then some power - Exhaust clip

 

Man you're killing it haha Keep up the mods and go fast bits. How hard was it for you dropping the rear subframe? I am just curious cuz I am going to have to do this at some point to upgrade my rear diff mounts.

 

Thanks man!! I can't wait for it to be finished!!! And as for the rear subframe, dropping its not bad at all. Its more of a pain in the ass when your changing the sway bar and axles.

Undo cat back and remove. Undo brake calipers and speed sensors.( no need to disconnect just hang from hard line screw with zip tie) Undo drive shaft. Undo E brake cable on the arm going forward from subframe on both sides. Undo bottom shock bolt on both sides. With subframe supported at diff with Jack.

Undo all for subframe nuts and the 2 bolts on the arm going forward from subframe on both sides. Now drop subframe a few inches on rear side of subframe there will be a metal tab with a 8mm Bolt that needs removed. The tab goes to the vent hose for gas tank. Now lower a few more inches there will be 2 plastic tabs holding a metal hose going from right rear to forward middle of top of subframe. They need undone. And there is 2 electrical connections for the diff on rear side of subframe In middle that need disconnected. Now While watching the e brake cables don't get caught. Lower the subframe. Change the mounts and reverse Instructions to install. It's not bad.


On a side note I end up having to undo the st mani and apparently when I installed it I slipped the Allen wrench and now after trying to remove it, it stripped. I'm just like really. So small hickup.

 

Hold up. Does your brake light on the dash come on as a shift light!?

 

No lol, So I Installed my 1st remote start and to get the remote start to engage you have to bypass the clutch switch. So I just put a wire going from a metal frame to the wire needing bypassed. Remote start works great but now when I press the clutch the brake light on dash flashes just once. But I bought a shift beep. And it has a extra wire for a shift light. So I could hook it up that way if I wanted. But no that would be cool. But I use FFS so I don't need it lol

 

Thanks man that will be very helpful in the future for me! I know they need replaced but it's expensive so I can't yet. One thing at a time I suppose. I wonder if I'll be the first speed over 220k-230k miles on the clock to (hopefully) hit +500hp? Haha I have a long ways to go but money wise things will be getting much better for me through the next 4 years!

 

Well I got the hose for the OCC switched to this route:


I got the stripped allen bolt out for ST mani. But I had to undo the front bumper and the crash bar, So I could lower the radiator support. That made it so I got a stright shot at the allen bolt. I end up switching to a regular bolt for the new one, So that issue won't come up again. .
Here's a few pics:


So I noticed a few weeks ago that the hot side was getting too close to the PI fuel rail and the rail was hot to the touch. Very Bad!! So I had put some heat shelding wrap around the hot side pipe at the fuel rail.. but it still seemed to be heating it up some. So i changed the hot side to route away from PI fuel rail. Heres a pic of before:


And after:


Well desperate times, Calls for desperate measures lol. Since the Tr1035 kit with crash bar blocks the normal windshield washer fluid spot. And it also blocks the driver side spot i had it before with my FMIC setup. so I can't put the resivor there. I made do with what I had. And it actually works rather well lol!

I took a 2 liter bottle and cut a hole just right so the pump from the resivor could go into it and make a nice and tight seal. And then I ran a hose to the top of engine bay to make it so I could fill it. Works for me... A few pics:



And I found a fuel connection at the fuel rail to fuel pressure regulator leaking a good amount of fuel before a few days ago thankfully I was already checking things over. And Tightened ut quick but I need to figure out how to fix. Thread lock I highly doubt thats the solution. Plumbers tape. Ahh don't sound right for fuel line. Looking into this.

Also I been having fuel pressure drop here and there . The car would just die and I would just wiggle the plug to the hpfp spill valve and it would start right back up. I thought it was the plug maybe or the wire harness. But it turns out it was the spill valve plastic plug piece on top was busted. And wiggles a little bit. So I switch it from the old car. I'll put pic here :

 

Took a few data logs on the new E33 Map. I'll leave them at the bottom.

After taking the logs I checked the OCC and its not spraying oil anymore. So thats a plus.

Finally got use out of the DIY Ethanol Sensor I made. Heres a pic and a video:


(The switch in picture is the dimmer for gauges in triple Block8head pod)



Here is the how to for the DIY Ethanol Sensor:


Here is a video of a log and a picture of dash:






Well I changed the spill valve and it seemed to fix it but today I was going home from king soopers and the car wouldn't start. It would start and die. it was the damn fuel pressure was shit again! only reading tank pump pressure. And if I go and wiggle the plug at the spill valve it would start right up but would die again. Did that like 5 or 6 times then I was finally able to get it to act right to get me the 1.5 miles home. Idk

 

That Ethanol guage is awesome man I need to get one of those if I run an E mix! Sorry you're having trouble with the hpfp. I would honestly check the resistance at the plug for the spill valve. I'm definitely not any electronic tech type guy but someone else might be able to tell you what amount is too much. You could always strip back the wire covering and look it all over as well and make sure none of the pins are bent in the plug and that it is clean.

 

Deets on the ethanol gauge?

 

I updated the last post I forgot to add the DIY Ethanol Sensor Video. Heres the video again just so its all together:



But if your going to make it. The sources on the youtube video lead to a site that don't sell the parts no more.

So I sourced the parts on Amazon all links are below..

One of the links from the YouTube video leads to a website that still sells the 3D printed case. Or the STL file to 3D print yourself will be at bottom named (EA-0. 12-A-FIXED.stl)

I'll include the micro code needed to flash to the chip at bottom. Named (EthanolSensorAnalogOut.zip)

Here are the links:









https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K4HLTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DbicGb30AYVPY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQR9C5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_g5hcGb3ZR2EP7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWFW82Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_25hcGb5WRM6JQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B0IQFU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_n7hcGbW490M3Y

 

Thanks man! When I found the youtube video I was all in. I love DIY especially when you safe money too!!! I'm going to change to a different harness all together...