Disi-MZResponse

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by Enki, Feb 10, 2016.

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  1. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Stuff and things. Picked up the valve cover tonight after this all went down' it's gonna get cleaned up tomorrow and installed with a brief description of the modifications done to it.

    Enjoy the pics, even the parkinsons one, and a video of adding a hole to my compressor housing.

    EDIT: Fun fact: At peak compression, it takes ~55 ft-lbs to turn my motor over (~30 RPM rate)



    IMAG0736.jpg IMAG0737.jpg IMAG0735.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017
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  2. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Major milestone!

    First, some glamour shots:
    IMAG0756.jpg

    Changing out the Alt pulley to the larger 3" one was surprisingly easy (tip: just hit it with an impact while free-spinning; it comes right off).

    IMAG0755.jpg

    Check out this sketchy shit we did to get the clutch and flywheel and shit on:
    IMAG0757.jpg

    Ever pick up and mate up a transmission to an engine while holding the engine so it doesn't fall off a table?

    Well, I did. Then I got the whole thing bolted back into the car.
    IMAG0758.jpg

    Everything is taped off because it's usually very windy here and this is all being done in a carport.
     
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  3. Awafrican

    Awafrican Silver Member

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    Nice and yes I can say I've done the clutch and fly wheel like you did, I actually did it on a roller cart.... Some sketchy shit if going fuuuk don't fall! Looking good tho man
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Feb 26, 2017
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  4. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Progress today.

    First up, some pre-planning with DM mani and TB placement, with piping. Unfortunately, the 180 won't fit due to clearance issues with the oil filter, and the throttle body can't be clocked this way due to clearance issues with the starter. IMAG0766.jpg


    Next, the homemade PCV plate setup to test some shit. It's rough up for sure, but should provide valuable info. The two fittings pointing left will connect together and provide some tight angles for removal of oil vapors. The one pointing down to the right will be fed directly into the exhaust.
    IMAG0768.jpg


    The backside; the white part is actually spray paint and construction paper; I painted my old block and hit it with black paper shortly after, then cut it all out for a template. The gouge on the right side underneath the template is the drain, since it flush-mounts; this should prevent pooling/filling of the top section, and allow shit to drain back into the oil pan. The placement of the bent baffle plate is set up to (hopefully) speed up and slow down flow where appropriate, thereby (hopefully) removing more oil vapor from the vented gasses. IMAG0767.jpg


    Under the valve cover mods; small slits (circled in red) cut in the baffle areas for oil draining. Normally, gasses enter a port up top, flow down and repeat. If gasses only go *out* of the pcv port on the valve cover, then eventually the baffle sections would fill with oil and nasty shit; however, with the stock PCV setup, at cruise and idle airflow would be reversed, thus draining these baffle sections.
    Something to keep in mind if you shy away from stock.
    IMAG0769.jpg


    Next up, some DM goodness. I'll probably fuck around with the oil dipstick tube further to get it to seat better, but for now, this is OK. It's sealed with the o-ring at least, so I'm not too worried about it.
    IMAG0771.jpg


    And another of how it all bolts up; the dipstick itself moves freely, but I'm not sure about accuracy yet (though I doubt it's off much if at all):
    IMAG0770.jpg


    Now for some sexy; black allen head bolts with washers holding everything on:
    IMAG0772.jpg


    And the updated engine bay (only this far for clearance and mockup):
    IMAG0774.jpg

    Side view:
    IMAG0775.jpg

    Speaking of clearances, it turns out I'll only be able to run one of the two 12" fans I have due to clearance issues with the throttle body; I've ordered a replacement 14" fan instead, which will allow me slightly more than stock cooling (2100 CFM high, 1500 low) but only one fan instead of the previously planned two.

    Anyone wanna buy some fans?


    Oh and here's the vanes for my brand new OEM water pump, freshly removed with angle grinder:
    IMAG0777.jpg

    On a related note, proposed mounting location of the electric water pump (black circle):
    IMAG0776.jpg
     
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  5. udntknw

    udntknw Gold Member

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    Would there not be room in front of the condenser to put a 12in fan to push air through? I feel like there is quite a bit of room, but can't remember exactly off the top of my head.

    Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
     
    udntknw, via a mobile device, Mar 5, 2017
  6. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Plastic ribbing/structure gets in the way. I'll test with the single 14 and move from there for the time being (keeping in mind that I have full control over both water and air flow based on temperature and/or power produced).
     
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  7. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Greenie Member

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    honestly if you are not stuck in traffic sitting you dont really need a fan. you arent a drag racer so you really just need it for parking. the heat generated at that engine speed is pretty minimal
     
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  8. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Nah I need it for cooling down in the pits too.
     
  9. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Greenie Member

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    Of course but a fan is a fan at that point you dont need to shed an insane amount of heat instantly.
     
    Easter Bunny, via a HTC device, Mar 18, 2017
  10. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    If I want to get more than 2 passes in at the local dragstrip per night I need to shed the heat quickly. They fucking suck, seriously.
     
  11. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Well, it's been quite a while since my last update, and some of you are probably wondering what's going on. This is the gist on why it's taking so long from here on out:



    Problems I've run into since last post, including but not limited to:
    1. See YouTube video above
    2. Can't install axles because they didn't come with nuts *OR* retention clips
    3. Minor mistakes made prior in the build causing slowdowns due to teardowns and rebuilds (like not being able to get the wiring harness for the injectors on, so having to pull the intake manifold and PS pump again, etc)
    4. Plans not working out as originally expected, causing the parts to purchase list to get larger still
    5. 20mm Tallboys are too tall, so the 15mm need to go in (it hits the boot frame)
    6. Issues with electrical systems (specifically aux ecu not having enough sensor inputs)
    7. Deep dive on FoST mani + TMIC didn't go well (but provided valuable data)
    8. Neck pain getting worse. It's getting more and more difficult to spend significant time working on things in general and I figure I've probably got around 6 months before I have no choice but to schedule the surgery

    Things that have been accomplished since last update:
    1. Science
    2. Stub harnesses for injectors and coil packs have been re-loomed and installed
    3. Slightly longer serpentine belt has been installed and engine turned over successfully
    4. New fender well liners have been installed
    5. New smoked LED side markers have been installed (same as what I had, but new and without a broken clip on one side)
    6. Put oil in the engine (8 quarts; 2 poured directly over cams)
    7. Water pump mount fabrication completed (just needs cleanup and painting, see pics)
    8. Fuel system mostly mapped out
    9. Cooling system mostly mapped out
    10. Electrical system mostly mapped out
    11. Mapped out chem only charge piping

    Things I need to do yet before I can turn the key over:
    0. Spend more money than I have and/or care to admit to spending
    1. Finish mapping out electrical system and build/install it
    2. Finish mapping out cooling system (have a couple decisions to make here; basically do I want the possibility for the engine oil to be too hot or too cool) and build/install it
    3. Finish mapping out the fuel system and build/install it
    4. Install axles, hubs and deez nuts
    5. Finish charge piping
    6. Reinstall and plumb meth system
    7. Finish assembly
    8. Build intake after everything else is set up (coolant, electrical, etc)
    9. Victory


    One of the problems I'm working on addressing right now is figuring out how to get all the sensors connected to the aux ECU for logging/display purposes; the fact that the current ECU I have doesn't have enough inputs for all the shit I want to hook up to it might actually be a blessing in disguise; what I can do instead is buy another, smaller version of what I have (Microsquirt V3; I have the Megasquirt 3 Pro already) and convert it to an input only CANBUS device...This is good because it drastically cuts down on the number of wires that need to go into the engine bay through the firewall by a shitload (I want the MS3-Pro in the cabin so I don't have to run a super long and super fragile USB cable from it to the RasPi and potentially have to fuck with replacing it anytime soon), and drastically shortens the majority of my sensor wires.

    Once I get this all figured out, I'll post up more details of the (IMO superior) aux fuel control setup.

    Below are a few photos of the fueling system arrangement I'm planning on using:
    IMAG0820.jpg
    How it's set up:
    Feed from ITFP goes through splitter, which has a pressure sensor on it to each aux injector as well as a long AN line to the front of the engine bay near the crash bar mounting location; it goes under the battery box, and yes this does fit with all the fittings and shit on it (just barely)

    IMAG0821.jpg
    After passing through the flex fuel sensor, it goes right to the normal "in" location in the HPFP.
    A custom stainless braid line also goes from the PRV to the HPFP, mostly because fuck that little yellow clip bullshit right in the ass.

    Random side view:
    IMAG0822.jpg

    Not sure it's a great idea to go through the boot with another fat trunk of wiring, so the plan was to use one of these to go through the firewall (I already have one in my possession, so it's just a matter of drilling the holes); if anyone has a better idea on how to get a 10+ wire trunk through the firewall without leaving a gaping, leaky hole lemme know. Anywho, the angled section just to the right of the factory trunk was where I planned on putting the bulkhead connector:
    IMAG0826.jpg

    As stated previously, here's the electric water pump mounting setup (it's actually sturdy as fuck):
    IMAG0825.jpg
    IMAG0824.jpg

    Oh, and here's a nice little tease for future updates (when you see it...):
    IMAG0827.jpg
     
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  12. Awafrican

    Awafrican Silver Member

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    Progress! Dam bank accounts getting in the way. Sorry to hear your neck is getting worse. That's a cock tease and a half, I'm presuming that means you figured out how to mount tmic with the FoST mani? Or are you just being a dick.
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Apr 17, 2017
  13. davychronic

    davychronic Greenie Member

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    How did you route the ignition coil and fuel injector harness around the ps pump? Such a fuggin tight fit for that grey plug. I feel your pain having to remove and install the IM tryin to figure that shit out. Im afraid how i have mine that the ps pump might melt the loom and fuck my harness in half.
     
    davychronic, via a mobile device, Apr 17, 2017
  14. nindoja

    nindoja Greenie Member

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    There's no TMIC under there sadly.
     
  15. Chpspd

    Chpspd Gold Member

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    That song has been stuck in my head all morning.

    Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
     
    Chpspd, via a mobile device, Apr 17, 2017
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  16. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Figured out? Almost; I have a pretty good idea on what needs to be done for sure. I need to talk to someone at DM here soon to pass it along, but it basically winds up needing a new TMIC rear bracket, a custom front bracket and a custom cold pipe.

    It's kinda just floating there for now (I'll address that later on in the build probably), but one of the things I did with the re-loom is to get rid of the factory mounting for the harnesses; turns out all those holes where shit pressed into are threaded, and the ones in the rail are threaded, tapered and + cut like a high temp locking nut. Found some appropriate hardware and did this:
    IMAG0819.jpg
    What isn't obvious from this pic is that the clamps will rotate slightly left and right but don't move at all up or down; they aren't locked down to the rail at all, but there's just enough spread between the two sections of clamp that there's no vertical axis movement possible. Also, those bolts ain't coming out easy either.
    Couple more for you attached to post but not embedded.

    As a side note, I wasn't aware that the pump got that hot; perhaps my solution for power steering cooling will suffice in keeping the temp of the pump down (it's hilariously extreme, actually; I think most will get a kick out of it).

    Correct, but there *is* a 2" straight pipe mockup, and eventually the shroud will be mounted there to hide the piping. At any rate, y'all missing the point of that picture...look again.

    And you're very welcome.
     

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  17. davychronic

    davychronic Greenie Member

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    Thanks for the pics, i like the wire tie downs. The ps pump i imagine gets hot like any hydraulic pump so im almost sure it would melt loom pressed into it like i have.

    I have mine like this

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I need to cut that tab off and see if my harness can reach like yours.
    Edit: NVM I see you dont have your resevior on your pump, im pretty sure you will have to route it under the IM like me and its a pita to get that grey plug in there. Honestly if you have the time to kill extending the harness a few inches would be the best imo.
     
    davychronic, via a mobile device, Apr 17, 2017
  18. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Yeah the GenWin PS res is remote, next to the coolant res; honestly, you can probably just take a stretch of 5/8 heater hose and split it down the middle and use that as a thermal barrier between the PS pump and your harness.

    I think mine will be OK where it is, but I might take some precautions just in case.
     
  19. davychronic

    davychronic Greenie Member

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    Bastards, i want remote res. Not enough room for hose to go around it. Im going to steal some of the fabric on the alternator heat sheild and see if i can wrap the loom in that. Someone needs to do a write up of the mods you need to make to a stock fost im. Ive had to pull the mani like 10 times trying to get all the pieces cut and trimmed so it will fit.
     
    davychronic, via a mobile device, Apr 17, 2017
  20. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Damond sends you a modified one if you order it from them; maybe they can do a thread/set of instructions on what needs to be done.
     
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