Disi-MZResponse

I don't think it will be a problem. The things don't get that hot to begin with, and even when they are at peak temp I can hold the entire raspi up by the heatsink.

 

Buckets and shims should be making their way to me shortly; will be installing and bolting shit on to the block probably next weekend.

 

Two points
Nator illinois had a box of buckets floating around at one time @phate might know where it is.

If you are tight on the clearances you can always file down the valve stem

 

I've been wondering that, myself. Someone in nator IL, I'm sure.

 

Didn't Ryan have them somewhat recently?

 

Hey James do you happen to know how many labor hours they have in that head work? Just dropped mine off at a local shop and they couldnt really give me a good idea of what to expect. Looking forward to seeing some 10k rpm videos

 

SS says about 25-30 hours in mine or so, but all they did was gasket match the hot side, bowl work the intake valves and small intake runner bevel on the vertical split.

 

Thats a little more than i thought, but not far off. I was expecting around $2k, just have to pucker up a little now

 

The boys at Speed Solutions say they'll give you a price on head work that noone will beat. Hit them up on Facebook, tell them I sent ya.

 

Ill hit them up and see what they say, thanks

I see they are selling your old head for $1800

 

Yeah I guess the guy fell through on his promise to buy it back from them. There's actually nothing wrong with the head if you're going for big numbers, just not to my spec.

 

Yea I was just chatting with him, good thing I just dropped my head off a couple hours ago so i doubt they have touched it yet. Looks like im going to send my head to them. He quoted me a great price for what I want done and they have all kinds of shims there so they wont have to grind on the tops of my valves to get the new cams set up.

 

What valve springs are you running again?

 

Supertech dual spring.

 

If you haven't yet you should contact them about taking those up to 10k. Certain RPMs can put some pretty nasty harmonics through springs. You'll also want to be sure you won't run into any issue with having the valves bounce.

 

I won't be going over 9k; the whole design isn't meant for more than 9k anyways. Turbo won't like it, cams won't be good enough for it, etc.

 

Minor update time.

The shims I ordered came in, and I was able to finish up the intake side leaving me with a completed longblock.


The alternator also came in today, and there were some issues...In the process of hooking me up with a 270 (I ordered a 250), they forgot to do the pulley and voltage regulator (this is a one wire self exciting one, will not be connected to ECU) swap; those parts are in the mail currently, and I'll have to do them myself. Not that big a deal really, in the grand scheme. Also, since it's also not *really* meant for this car, it needs shims (Singer supplied a shitload of them, so +1 on that) to keep it from hitting the block; I used 3, but 2 would probably work fine as well:


I had the hotside and manifold on briefly as well:






This was done so I could check and see if my downpipe setup would actually work (I just green lit the creation of a billet adapter to go from the vband to the pipe); turns out there's just enough room. I'll probably wind up making some kind of aluminum heat shield to protect the alt from the downpipe, and I'll have that ceramic coated:



Note that the piping will actually be 0.35" closer to the alt than what is pictured here (pretty close to an inch). It's tight, but should be doable/safe.

 

Should definitely shield the alt from that pipe. They don't appreciate the heat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

The whole turboback will be ceramic coated inside and out too. The hotside and manifold already are as well (if you couldn't tell).

 

Stuff and things. I'd be further along but apparently I fucked up an order somewhere and don't have a couple of parts.

Missing: Oil chain guide, oil pickup seal (o-ring) and connecting hardware. Derp.

Edit: The sprockets are keyed (right side) so yeah, it's OK to have the tensioner tensioning. It ain't goin anywhere.

Missing: Fuel rail mounting hardware. Probably just gonna stud it like I did the injectors (which came out amazing btw).


Studs are secured with blue loctite, then there's the crows foot, then the half moon washer (drilled out), then a secondary washer, then a lock washer and finally the nut. Torqued to 20 ft-lbs the end result is a flat face on the nut/stud combo (made my OCD feel good).


Hopefully have most of the shit bolted on next weekend, if not a hair sooner.