Endgame setup- BW s257sxe

I use EWG with the conversion rod to delete the IWG actuator. What's happening is probably a duty cycle issue. You are running the same turbo with the only difference being the EWG now instead of IWG?

The EWG is going to dump a lot more gasses faster than the IWG will since the opening is much larger. If it begins to crack open sooner then you'll have a slower spool time. You are running the sealing ring inside the EWG to manifold correct? Otherwise it would sound like a giant exhaust leak and could be preventing full boost.

 

Yes, one hose from the ebcs goes to the 4 inch intake. I have one hose from the st manifold to a vacuum block. Otherwise the ebcs is plumbed exactly as in the diagram.

I didn't think to try bypassing the new MV-R as it solved my previous issue of not being able to spool up past 15psi. I'll try that again and see what I get with this new Tial EWG.

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Same turbo, was EWG previously. Different EWG this go around. Valve seat is present

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Ok is the spring rated for the same psi? Which EWG did you go from and install now? Same diameter as before?

If all of them are the same then has there been any change in your WGDC table or any difference in commanded load cells?

 

Previously turbo smart hypergate 45 EWG with 19psi spring pressure. Now I have a Tial MV-R 44 with 21psi spring pressure. My tuner has adjusted wgdc with no change past 5k RPM

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This is exactly the "issue" i was talking about in my last post. I need to find some better pictures, but this is what I see:

For the flow split, it looks like one runner will completely exit via the EWG when open, while another two (assuming both have the same angle, I can't see the other side of this image) will dump about 1/2 to 3/4 of their flow through the EWG if allowed.


Keep in mind exhaust is a fluid and will follow the path of least resistance...What has less resistance? A short dump tube or a full catback with a turbo in front of it?


My assumption is that you won't hit the expected PSI you're after when testing for spring pressure and the best way to resolve that is to add more spring pressure. Another thing to keep in mind is that the wastegate doesn't actually control boost (at least not directly) but rather exhaust backpressure, and with this design, a lot of pressure is going to be directed to the EWG.

Edit:
Here's the flow diagram from the CS site; I assume that they are treating the EWG port as being capped off:

 

Thank you Enki. This is very valuable information. The Corksport exhaust manifold was designed to be used with the Tial MV-R. I was able to build boost beyond 25psi with the Turbo Smart EWG on my previous engine that melted cylinders 2 and 3. Then of course I replaced it with the Tial MV-R since the turbo smart was leaking. From my previous logs in the beginning of this thread, I was able to continue to build boost past 25psi with all of the exact components aside from the new EWG.

One thing to note. Recently while boost leak testing, the EWG would leak pressure unless I pinched off the vacuum line running from the ebcs to the EWG. I don't really know if that is expected or not.

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It shouldn't leak, but maybe it needs to be hot to seal properly or something...? How bad is the leak?
You should be able to take it off the car and test it using compressed air; if you have a good enough regulator this should tell you your crack pressure too.

 

Do you have the vacuum hose connected to the proper port on the EWG? Maybe something isn't seated properly which is hanging it open at idle.

I am also running a MVR and didn't have issues with it hanging open at idle. Did you have any resistance seating the valve to the manifold or did it mount onto the manifold easily?

When I R+R mine I have to push it against the manifold and can feel spring resistance. Not a lot just a little as the valve seat pushes against it.

 

It would begin to leak above spring pressure. Above 25psi if I recall. My tuner was telling me to boost leak test at 35-40psi.

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I have the single vacuum hose on one air port of the bottom of the EWG. The rest of the air ports are capped off. The top port I left open since it's venting to air.

It had resistance mounting to the manifold. It wasn't easy lol That's how I knew my turbo smart EWG was leaking. The valve seat was really loose and had zero resistance when mounting.

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I have a precision 46mm wastegate and it leaks out the gate during boost leak tests. It is a very small leak and I don't see that being an issue. I wouldn't think it would make an air tight seal when testing to 20+ lbs but also it leaks so slow I don't see it causing issues. When I did my last test it took a minute to go from 25lbs to 0.

 

Yes, you should always have resistance and a fire ring in there. I usually use the air compressor on the BOV to get it to open and hold it there while I seat and tighten it. Can be pretty tricky if you are doing it solo but it is the best way.

 

I have that same manifold with the GTX3071r and Precision 46mm Gate. At spring pressure "15lbs" I was making 16 lbs up top which was pretty wild compared the CPE which would creep to 20+. From my testing it seems like this design will allow you to hit spring pressure or just a touch over.

 

Okay good to know. That confirms that. I recently plugged the tail pipes and set my shop vac to push air to find exhaust leaks. The only leak I found was a really slow leak from the turbo to dp vband clamp. It slowly bubbled up and the size of the bubbles were tiny. I wonder if at higher boost levels it presents itself as a larger leak. Regardless I'll be reseating the dp to the turbo and retightening the clamp

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If that's the case then the 21psi spring pressure I have in the wastegate is maxed out I would think?

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Remember guys that the ARs matter on the turbo and no two gates will operate the same either.

...Did you pressurize your exhaust to check for leaks?

Also, any luck doing the spring pressure test yet?

 

With the boost reference line from the compressor housing straight to the external wastegate I was a hair under 25 psi

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Dyno logs had you hitting the same so either ebcs is shit or connected incorrectly.

 

Brand new grimspeed EBCS bad? Maybe. Then again I thought my CS ebcs was bad because of the turbo smart EWG leaking so I replaced it with the Grimspeed. I'll try swapping back and seeing what happens!

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