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Great vid. My one key question they didn't address is were these wrenches calibrated before this vid? The Harbor Freight seemed 10 above, but consistently so; wouldn't just calibrating it be enough?

 

Good question
[doublepost=1486000126][/doublepost]It didn't say how to fix it

 

http://www.teamtorque.com/torque_wrench.html
[doublepost=1486047172][/doublepost]honestly id be worried about the wrench staying in calibration through all your rod bolts, main bolts and head bolts but thats just my opinion. Personally i use a beam style wrench on the more critical torques like those.

 

What do you recommend? I rather be safe than sorry. I can't afford to do this twice.

 

Yea... I returned the HF wrenches. I checked them to ensure they clicked prior to installing my CDFP internals but when actually installing the bolts it didn't click and fractured the bolt. Luckily it didn't shear it.

I bought a set of Husky ones from Homedespot they came with the calibration certifications. They're also the ones I use when I moonlight as an A&P so I'm good with them. I used to use the click style for doing top end overhauls of aircraft engines. Never had an issue out of the several hundred I've done.

 

I use a Northern Insdustrial that's lifetime-warrantied (1/2" drive, 20-150 range). I'd probably go at least Husky/Cobalt/Craftsman-level for an engine build, though, and pay the ~$40 or so bucks to check/adjust its calibration.

Another factor not touched on is torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle of their range rating, by nature. 100lb/ft on a 20-100 is likely less accurate than 100lb/ft on a 50-150, for instance. But top-notch brands like Snap-On are like very accurate everywhere.

 

In that situation, you'd take off the end cap then turn the threaded piece under it to calibrate it. That machine they're using is pretty spendy. The company owned torque wrenches we'd use on aircraft were calibrated every 2 years to +/- 3%. My personal ones get done every 5 since they don't see the kind of use the tool crib ones did.

I should probably check the FAR AIM to see how often they're supposed to be done though....

 

I would never use the max or min on a torque wrench. I had a situation where a torque wrenches was off and snapped a bolt without me noticing. Extracting is always a bitch.
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I wish I can return the 3 HF wrenches I have but I purchase them about 6 months ago. I will look into husky and craftmans and see what would be best especially makings urethane it is properly calibrated.
[doublepost=1486083263][/doublepost]Got my t8ming tool. In the mail today. At least this doesn't need much work do else to it.

 

Got this in the mail for $50
I have a gen juan vc on because of my motors Wapakoneta when went zzb and because I paid $50 for it to be powder coated by relentless customs when J was in business. Next month, I'll be shopping around for a GenPu vc.

 

Genpu VCs FTW

 

Yup. There is a local shop here that does powder coating for a great deal so I should be in luck. They ceramic coated my cpe exi manifold and it is holding strong. They used something that guns are normally coated with that protects up to 4000 degree and more, the temps are notably better in the bay.

Current situation...trying to track down a possible leak somewhere. At idle at times, my car will random boggle like afr does to 17 etc and the rpm would drop to unless than 750 like it is about to stall. Worse part, there is no code.

 

I am looking into this. Anyone had this done? Is it worth it or necessary? $445 for everything. ..not sure if includes shipping.

http://www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/products/sp63-crank-keying-service-for-mazda-mzr-disi.html

 

General rule of thumb: it's unnecessary for builds 500whp and below, so long as your engine is assembled correctly (i.e., new friction washers are used/steps are followed to a "T"). Since you want more than that power, it's a great idea: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and this makes it impossible to slip timing.

 

I thought that. I heard of a few case that didn't turn out too good and they wishes they were keyed.

 

The injectors came in. They need some work. I'll be shipping them off to Injector RXaas soon as I hear back from them how much it would cost for the maintenance as well as the upgrade of the basket to stainless steel. I also just ordered the CS injector seals.

 

I got my CS seals in the mail yesterday. I wanted to install them on my running motor now but I am going to wait until my build is complete or signs of leaking seals come about.

Injector Rx wrote me back:

"I believe those are Direct Injectors they are $25 each to clean and test and stainless steel filters are $6.50 each

I can turn them around in 1 business day and ship back

Tony"

I think this a good deal.

 

That's about par for the course. I'm pretty sure that's close to what RC Engineering charged. One day turn arounds are nice though.

 

There are plenty of non keyed high power builds out there. Hell I know of an ms3 that made 700whp on reused friction washers. Just follow the factory procedure, buy new washers and use high quality timing tools and you'll be just fine.

 

I think I recall RC but RX is what a heard many talking about. One day I think is not really true especially with the detail that goes into them but hey if you work with them everyday, anything is possible.
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I've heard that as well as well as the many fails. I think the timing tool above is good. I am not an expert but the quality was good. I don't recall the brand but it looks like the Massive Speed Timing Tool Set that is sold my Edge. The washers look good but for a peace of mind, I think I will get new ones. My biggest thing is in California, many machine shops don't key or don't want to take the risk with something that is not already keyed. Only place I know of that does this on a regular for our platform is SP63 with the pros and many cons from them. I don't know of anyone else.