How-To Clutch Pedal Assembly / Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement

I gotta do this knuckle buster of a job in the next week or so. Thought I had a slave cylinder issue initially, but after getting the car up on ramps, I don't see any leaking from the slave. Got under the dash and disconnected the pushrod from the pedal to find the first few inches of travel sloppy and loose. So I assume the MS is toast. Car is an '08 and has 221k on original parts so I guess it is due. I ordered both a new OE master and slave. Was gonna go with the Luk one from Rock Auto, but decided to cancel it and go with OEM for about $40. Just don't want to take any chances

Anyone using the Clutch Masters braided clutch line? I ordered one of these also. Goes from MC to SC.

 

I think @SharksInSpace has one on his pu unless it was replaced before he bought it. I looked at getting one for my juan but I ended up double flaring the OEM hardline and just doing my own 3an stainless line to the slave.

https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.p...-build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-7#post-66642

 

Gonna be buttoning this up tonight. I cannot imagine doing this nightmare job and taking pictures for a guide as well, so big kudos to you for making this guide man.

For anybody else reading this preparing for this job, I welded a nice little support onto a new pedal assembly to keep it from ever breaking again hopefully. I also found that when you are actually getting the pedal into place with the master cylinder behind it, it's really hard to get the master cylinder lined up properly. I ended up getting it all lined up and actually twisting the master cylinder around 90* from the engine bay to get the tabs to line up properly with the holes on the pedal assembly. The last little tip I have is if you mess up the spring the way I had to get it back in place was by getting it in place on one side, then into the middle, and then man handling the far side into it's respective hole. I tried getting both sides in and getting the middle piece down into the pedal, but I felt like I was going to slip and mess myself up if I did, so that seems to be the safest way. If you do have to redo the spring, make sure to re grease it up so you don't have squeaky shifts.

 

Thanks for the write-up. I had to do something similar on an RX-8, but I just reinforce-welded (read added more thicker metal in all possible spots) the old pedal because even new ones are prone to cracking. I thought this was an RX-8 exclusive problem, guess not, gonna check out the genpu, make sure it's not effed. Good job on the details, the speed has a little more room to get to the pedal than the 8. Still some acrobatics involved.

 

Just tackled this job today. I replaced the master cylinder only, because I could not get a pedal assembly. Apparently they are on "indefinite back order," for now. Thanks Covid...

You do have to loosen the center console since the shoulder of the driver knee plate is wedged behind it. The BCM can come out before the pedal, and that gives you a lot more room. The master cylinder was almost fucking seized, so removing the plastic arm from the pedal assembly was the worst part for me. Luckily my pedal was not cracked, woohoo!!!!

No possible way of reinstalling both assembled together without removing the steering shaft. Twisting the master cylinder tabs onto the pedal was very tricky, but some lithium grease helps. When reinstalling the BCM, remove the top bracket that bolts to the clutch pedal off of the BCM. Secure that to the pedal while leaving the bolts loose. You can easily reinstall the BCM through the fuse panel without the top bracket (I removed that too, just a single 10mm nut).

This job sucks and is up there with downpipes, exhaust manifolds, and rear passenger camber arms.

 

I cant get the clutch assembly pass the metal tab sticking out, im so fed up with this job. ANY SIGGESTIONS!?