How-To Fix Broken Shift Cable Linkage (without replacing the cables)

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 6 How-To' started by Vansquish, Feb 27, 2020.

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  1. Vansquish

    Vansquish Greenie Member

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    This thread was originally created on MSF by @lilloui05 back in December of 2014.

    Hello All!

    I posted a picture of a fix I did to my MS6 shifter cables and How To was requested, so here we go!

    As always, I am not responsible for any damage you might do to your car. This will be a very loose guide with a description of what I did to fix my shifter cables after breaking them while changing a seal.

    Required Materials:

    5/16 drill bit,
    8.5mm Drill Bit
    Drill
    Oil
    M10-1.5 Bolt, about an 1" and a half long.
    Flanged Bearing (still testing sizes)
    threadlock
    M10-1.5 Nut (Nylock would be best)

    If you are performing this fix I am going to assume you already know how to get to where the problem is. I was fixing a leaky pivot shaft seal when my linkages broke, so search and use that write up as a guide to remove the required parts.

    The fix is pretty straightforward. I did not take any pictures during the process so mostly what you will see are after pictures and descriptions.

    1) Drill out the nipple where the original linkages snapped on. I removed everything as shown in the pivot shaft seal. I then moved the brackets a work table where I could clamp them to make the drilling and tapping easy.

    Start with the 5/16" drill bit. Remember to use oil. After drilling in far enough the nipple will separate from the bracket.

    Use the 8.5mm bit to slightly enlarge the hole where the hardware was inserted.

    2) Tap the hole using the M10-1.5 tap. Keep the tap as straight as possible. Remember to use oil. I chose M10 because it would require the least amount of drilling with the hole that was already present.

    3) Insert the Bolt into the bracket, going in the correct direction. Tighten and much as you can, plus half a turn. In my case I decided to tack weld the bolts, so tightness did not matter.

    As mentioned I decided to tack weld the bolt, and cut off the head to make it look cleaner.

    4) I put everything back on the car after I installed the hardware on both brackets. I used a flanged bearing so it would hold the eyelet of the shifter cables in place.

    A picture is worth a thousand words so here is what I have for you guys. I will post details about the hardware once I have it all settled. I want to do a little more testing before I settle on a proper bushing/bearing.


    [​IMG]
    Final Assembly, with everything back together.

    [​IMG]
    Bolt off.

    [​IMG]
    Eyelet with the bearing put in. I really like the outer diameter fit.

    [​IMG]
    Other side view, bearing installed.

    [​IMG]
    eyelet, no hardware installed.

    [​IMG]
    View of the M10 bolt installed on the bracket. You can see the tack welds.

    [​IMG]
    Flanged bearing I used.

    [​IMG]
    Bolt I used, M10. You can see above I ground off the head.


    Video of the brackets and fix while moving through the gears.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTEF...ature=youtu.be


    I know alot of part are still vague, so let me know where more details are needed. Also if someone wants to share picture of the brackets before the mod, just post them up, I'll add them to this post.

    Thanks and hope some people find this post helpful.
     
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