How-To Mazdaspeed6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures

This Thread was originally created on MSF by @TiGraySpeed6 back in December of 2011:

Notes on fluids & associated part information for the MS6

Please do post corrections or suggestions-
I'll integrate to this post as appropriate

This was mostly copied & pasted from dozens of posts,
or taken from the '06 MS6 owners manual
-notes gathered mostly just to make my life easier.

based on US dollars, quarts or gallons
=============================================

> Fuel Tank
'06 MS6 Manual - 15.9 us gal


> Power steering fluid
'06 MS6 Manual - ATF M-III, M-V, or equivalent (e.g. Dexron® II)
dry fill- 1 quart

Power Steering Flush write up with pics - HOW TO: Power Steering Flush

**NOTE: This is not a good area to skimp on quality. In harsh environments like autocross the power assist has been known to fail. Well worth the extra few dollars for a good synthetic ATF.**

> Brake/Clutch fluid
'06 MS6 Manual - SAE J1703, or FMVSS116 DOT-3
system flush- 1 liter

> Coolant
'06 MS6 Manual - 8.5 us qts (2.25 us gallons)
Type- Mazda FL22
Mazda OEM - part# 0000-77-508E-20
Ford Specialty Green Coolant - Motorcraft part # VC-10-A

It seems that only Mazda has coolant called "FL22"

- - Well, OK then, just WTF is FL22, and is this going to be a PITA?

Some clarity, compliments of the BobIsTheOilGuy forums, and a poster named ponderosaTX

"...Mazda automotive coolants are green but they have almost NOTHING in common with conventional North American green coolant. Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (phosphated organic acid technology) coolant developed and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion; they contain no silicates or borates. In the 2005 model year, Mazda started using a second generation P-OAT coolant which has a lower concentration of phosphates and an improved organic acid additive package. The other major Japanese auto manufacturers, namely Toyota, Honda, and Nissan all use essentially the same coolant technology.

The only aftermarket P-OAT coolants are Japanese OEM coolants from Mazda, Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant, and Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (which reportedly is identical to the second generation Mazda FL22 OEM P-OAT coolant). For the record, Ford started using Japanese P-OAT coolant technology in many of its 2009 models (those sharing engine technology with Mazda) instead of G-05. Ford evidently found the performance of Japanese P-OAT coolants was superior to G-05 in Mazda engineered engines.

Using conventional North American green coolant in a Mazda is a bad idea. Even German (BASF) coolant technology as embodied in G-05, which contains silicates and no phosphates, is a much better choice than conventional North American green for vehicles with aluminum blocks and aluminum radiators. But a genuine P-OAT coolant, particularly a second generation P-OAT coolant like Mazda FL22 or Motorcraft Specialty Green, is the best choice."


It now looks like Ford Specialty Green Coolant may be the cost-effective alternative to Mazda FL22. Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant is another option.




////////////////


> Engine:

5.5 - 6 qts
7 quarts with Balance Shaft removed

'06 MS6 Manual - 5W-30
There's a strong argument being made that 5W-40 is better
as the slightly thicker viscosity will not seep past the seals
in the turbo and may help prevent the smoking turbo syndrome.

Oil Filter - cartridge style

Oil Filter Part Numbers:
FL-2017B - Motorcraft/Ford OEM cartridge oil filter
L321-14-302-9U - Mazda OEM cartridge oil filter
7203 - Napa Gold cartridge oil filter (made by Wix)
57203 - Wix cartridge oil filter
L15505 Purolator Premium Plus cartridge oil filter
PL15505 Purolator Pure One cartridge oil filter
GL15505 O'Reilly's/Microgard cartridge oil filter
P7313 - Baldwin cartridge oil filter
HP-7013 - K&N cartridge oil filter (made by Champion Labs)
84203 - Carquest cartridge oil filter (made by Wix)
LF594 - Hastings cartridge oil filter
CH9641 - Fram cartridge oil filter
P960 - Champ cartridge oil filter (Champion Labs, makes oil filters for other companies)
S9641 - STP cartridge oil filter (made by Champion Labs)
M1C153 - Mobil1 cartridge oil filter

Oil Filter Wrench - 76mm/14 flutes

Crush Washer-
Mazda OEM - part# 9956-41-400

Drain Bolt torque specs - 23-30 ft-lbs


**NOTE - Short interval oil changes- fuel shear from DISI is bad mojo

////////////////


> Tranny:
'06 MS6 Manual - API Service GL-4 (SAE 75W-90)

3 qts - GL-4
2.5 us qts actual fill

-Amsoil
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle
Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG)
$12.90/qt retail

-RedLine
MT-90 (75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil)
$11.49/qt retail

-Motorcraft
Ford Manual Transaxle fluid # XT-M5-QS (75W-90 GL-4 Gear Oil)

Drain and Fill Bolt torque specs - 20.2-37.5 ft-lbs


////////////////


> PTO & Rear Diff:
'06 MS6 Manual - API Service GL-5 (SAE 80W-90)

3qts - GL-5
'06 MS6 Manual - pto - 1.3 us qts actual fill
'06 MS6 Manual - r.diff - 1.1 us qts actual fill

-Amsoil
SEVERE GEAR® Synthetic Extreme Pressure (EP) Lubricant 75W-90 (SVG)
$13.25/qt retail
Long Life Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 75W-90 (FGR)
$11.20/qt retail
**NOTE: My amsoil rep no longer stocks Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 80W-90 (AGL), and states the SVG is substantially better. I have heard from a few folks happily running the SVG in the MS6 rear dif without adding the SlipLock additive, seems it's not needed for the MS6. I removed the AGL from this list, but if you find it locally it will be fine to use.**

-RedLine
75W-90 (75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil)
$10.95/qt retail
**NOTE: Not recommended to run RedLine 75W-90NS - doesn't contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip rear diff**

Drain and Fill Bolt torque specs - Transfer case: 29.0-43.3 ft-lbs
........................................... Rear differential: 29.0-39.7 ft-lbs




(retail pricing from manufacturer websites September 2008)



What's the deal with this GL-4 vs GL-5 business anyway?

You can go here and form your own opinion:
GL5 gear oil bad in tranny,fact or myth? - clicky-clicky
Even more reading on the subject- clicky-clicky

In theory, and in the print of many GL-5 containers, and many parts counter guys will say GL-5 superceded GL-4 and is suitable for all GL-4 or GL-5 locations.

That said, many, including my Amsoil Rep and the Bobistheoilguy forums will tell you different. My Mazda manual also clearly states 4 for the tranny, 5 in the remainder.

GL-5 contains sulfur compounds known to not be healthy to yellow metals such as brass (read: your synchros). GL-4 has a substantially lower quantity of sulfur than GL-5, which instead uses chemicals to try & lessen the impact on gold metals.

My manual calls for GL-4
My Amsoil Rep is is vehement on this as well!





>DIY Pics:

Trans:



Transfer Case/PTO:



Rear Diff:



>Helpful Hints:

the plugs are all either 23 or 24mm

drain & fill bolt torque specs from the FSM:
- Engine: 23-30 ft-lbs
- Transmission: 20.2-37.5 ft-lbs
- Transfer case: 29.0-43.3 ft-lbs
- Rear differential: 29.0-39.7 ft-lbs


crush washer part numbers:
- Trans oil plug washer - A601-17-117
- T-case oil plug washer - 9956-21-800
- Diff oil plug washer - 9956-41-800


A pump of some kind is highly recommended for all three locations.
-Basic, inexpensive hand pumps can be had from almost any parts store


Squeaky clutch or shifter?

Originally Posted by lapisbluinhou


What is the recommended lube for this guy and is it applied directly on the part?

Originally Posted by FORZDA 1
The best grease I have found for underhood type stuff in the green "waterproof" grease from Advance auto. Can't think of the name right now, but you will know it when you see it. The shifter mechanism must be cleaned out real good with paper towels before adding lube. You lube it by "squishing" a blob of grease into and through the openings and wiping off the excess.



This guy is starting to make an awful noise when I press in the clutch. Not sure if he needs to be lubed or replaced.

Originally Posted by FORZDA 1
The clutch slave cylinder push rod squeaks where it contacts the release arm. Just push a bit of the green grease into the contact area and it will be fine.


> Post-transplant start-up options

(whoosh @ Apr 8 2009, 05:50 AM)
install the turbo and connect all lines (oil and coolant)
unplug the coil packs / just the connectors
turn the car over for about 10-15 seconds
obviously it will not start and thats the point to get oil running through the turbo
sit a minute and do the 10-15 seconds again
connect the coil packs and start it up

don't worry about the coolant
after your car is running and you are sure there are no leaks
let it cool a bit and add coolant until it's at the required level
Originally Posted by ungrave
I wanted to add that the crank/no start procedure from whoosh is a good idea but not the best way of going about it. Reason being is that with that procedure you are removing the spark but the engine is still injecting fuel into the combustion chamber.

A much better and easier way of doing this (and what I do on initial start up after each oil change) is to simply pull the fuel injector fuse.

Open the fuse box under the hood next to the air filter. Pull the fuel injector fuse, I believe it's labeled 'FUEL INJ'. Fuses are labeled under the fuse box cover. It should be the fuse near the corner of the fuse box by the MAF. Crank the engine till the oil light goes off, then put the fuse back in. Then crank it again and it'll start right up with instant oil pressure!