HPFP Fuel too rich steady drop

Hello everyone. this will be lengthy but hopefully give you as much info as possible.
Year/Make/Model: 2013 mazdaspeed 3
Mileage:85000
Location: central utah
Concern:HPFP Auto tech internals not working properly? Fuel system too rich with steady drop.
DTC'so301 cylinder 3 misfire. and the fuel system too rich io believe Po172?
Modifications: Cobb Intake, Cobb downpipe, cobb catback, corksport bpv,stock turbski(30,000m)
Autotech internals that are failing>??
ECU/Tuning Software:Cobb accesport
Tuner: Freektune
Is the concern intermittent?the car doesnt idle right and produces white smoke with fuel filling the oil. Massively
Can you duplicate the concern? The Issue only arises with the AutoTech internals. 3 new fuel pumps and 1 new stock internal as i used the other i took off.
Recent Repairs:Basic oil changes, Had the downpipe and catback installed. The car has ran beautifully without the upgraded internals except for when im on throttle pushing more that 13-15psi boost with fuel cuts on stock internals. because it needs more fuel because rejects the fuel im trying to give her.
Correction: HELP PLEASE!!!

I bought this car back in 2019, with it seeming to just have an intake from corksport and the bpv. OIther than that it was a stock car. running great. I had upgraded it with the cobb intake and had got a accesport a few months after i got the car. also had got internals from autotech with the package kit but hadnt installed them yet.
i installed the Autotech internals myself following the cobb instructions per video from cobb. Torqued and was as carefull as possible. This was the first appearance of the Internals not working blowing white smoke and filling my oil with fuel. Yes i know white smoke is usually coolant but its not dropping level and my fuel gauge is as well as a rising oil level with the internals in. I had replaced the entire pump with stock internals and the car has ran wonderfully with no issues. Called around, most people said i needed more bolt ons. so i just stayed stock internals.
Few months go by- i see the autotech part sitting with a day off and tackle it. i take it off and put the new one on with new O_RINGS. no white smoke but no idle and was running 8.9 AFR eventually stalled and wouldnt start. Changed the oil caused it was filled with fuel. and put a stock internal on.
few years later 2020. Little fender bender nothing crazy. front damage to the car but no real damage.
2022- HPFP had failed and wasnt pumping any fuel into the car, i changed and bought one refurbished with stock internals and the car had ran great.
2023- the car was going on freeway and suddenly a massive clank and crumble sound, we pulled over and realized it had been the exhaust. catalitic converter had collaped. This is when i got the downpipe and catback and NGK colder one step gapped at .026 as well as the tune. Had the Autotech internals put on by a dealership and the problem still arose. i had fuel in my oil and i couldnt start it after 15 minnutes of driving it. I would die at red lights and then i barely made it home before i had the dealership tow it back and put the stock internals back on. they put the stock internals back, still flashed the tuner map i had for the DP and CB and it cuts fuel now because its not getting enough. All the Stealership had to say was i needed the Proper TUNE??!?!?!?!?!
I had a prof mech that i knnow install the internals today 5/30, White smoke and billowing. With fuel in my oil. The car had ran great idling for 15-20 minutes while we cleaned up the tools and what not, reversed it, got it to the stop sign and it died, i had to put my foot to the floor on gas to get it to start. I will put in the stock Internals tomorrow and oil changed and im sure the car will run normally expect WOT.
Please help im fk at a loss and neeed some help, i plan to take it to some performance shop downtown SLC if i cant figure this out.
I will get pics of the current set up in the morning.
Some asked what oil. 5w-30 synthetic castrol since ive owned it. havent changed. and frequent oil changes. at 90,000 ill be doing a transmission fluid change and possible a newer clutch!
Sorry for the length but its the info i got for ya!

 

Datalogs from today after installing the autotech internal. undriveable

 

Show many different sets of internals have you installed? And the only time you have problems is on the one original set of autotechs?

 

1 when I bought the car-probably Corksport or oem, this was 4-5 years ago I don’t remember but I had bought the Cobb stage kit and tried to install the auto tech internal.
2 stock internals on the new pumps put them aside and put the same auto tech internal, as it seems to be alright I will have pictures today if the cam follower and the autotech internal itself

 

so you have only installed one set of autotech several different times and they are the only set of internals that give you an issue?

 

Couple things:
1. You don't need a tune for HPFP internals.

2. You DO need a tune when changing the intake, MAF housing or related components (as the readings can be skewed). This *may* include the MAF sensor itself.

3. You need to log Accel pedal position instead of or with throttle position. This is a drive by wire car, so there's really no accurate way to tell what you're commanding of the car without seeing what you're doing with the pedal.

4. You're running rich as fuck. This can't happen with just an HPFP internals swap unless you have an injector problem too.

5. Go back to stock heat range plugs. You only need these on pump gas with higher power levels, and this could be the source of your misfire code (incomplete combustion).

6. This actually *disables* fuel injection, which leads me to believe you have an injector stuck open.


Edit: You don't have any kind of aux fuel like PI, 6th port or WMI right?

 

I agree, tune required for other bolt ons which is why i got the tune with the DP/CB and have just been stock pos cobb map till. He requested the spark plugs and i had them spaced(gap) correctly.026" i believe.

Weve drained the oil that came out like niagra falls. Flooded. completely like water. Hpfp O-rings were ripped a new one as well as the piston sleeve o-ring i believe, the little baby one.

This is the stock internal that got put back in after it was already running rich as fuck is in the pic.

The o-rings were fine and sealed tighter before install yesterday, they must have already been broken or used or idk what.


New HPFP O-rings have been re installed, With the SAME AUTOtech internal for idk how many fk times but the car actually seemed "alright" but was getting stutters and still a small amount of white smoke with no indication of coolant leakage:/
I Know how to change the gauge on the Accessport but how to on excel? It should be monitoring accel. pedal position...


no aux fuel. and i believe stock throttle body if that makes any difference

 

Dude use paragraphs and punctuation I still have no idea how many sets of internals you have installed and which ones have had problems

 

To add the PID in the data log, you need to add the PID to the data log. Not sure how else to say this, but there's a setting for that in the AP.
The only ways to get that much fuel into the oil pan is either via the combustion chamber (you'd smell this in the exhaust) or if the seals on the retaining nut for the HPFP (the part with the spring attached) were fucked.

It seems like the scraper and x ring are probably in there so if you put the pump back together and put air pressure to it, there shouldn't be any leaks out the spring area. If it don't leak from there, then it's probably an injector.

 

@Bunny. ive answered this multiple times in the shoutbox as well as the thread.-
1- Autotech internal
3 Fuel pumps. 1 original when i bought it, 1 new one WITH THE STOCK INTERNALS.? it failed and wasnt pressing any fuel, i bought Another one,. HENCE THE 3rd? what other information can i say?. Sorry but ive never just bought the pump itself. Always a full brnad new pump with new stock internals. Idk how many times ive had to say that lol

the car no longer is filled with fuel, ive replaced yet again another pump with the autotech and seems to be normal. just bad luck with fuel pumps i fk guess.

The logs i posted today are with the autotech internals, Does anything stand out?

 

edit: WOT data log, Looking at the spk,i like enki is right about the spark plugs, ive sent this to the tuner as well hoping he gets back to me in the morning.

 

Why the fuck are you doing WOT pulls when your oil is half fuel?

 

It’s been changed..?lol

Watch the fire car go down the road guys!!

I’ve mentioned with all the pics of the pump and shit I’m almost positive the 4th pump was seriously the charm. With new orings and but is now stuttering WOT.

And with your advice about the sparkys, I think I might change them to the stock heat range like you said.

 

When you rebuild the pump what are you lubricating it with?

 

always have followed Kyle @cobb with this video. Step by step. Very through.

 

Jesus christ 13 mins for a 2 minute video; he did a LOT of shit in there you simply don't have to do, and some stuff you SHOULD do but isn't covered.