HPFP Upgrade CX7

Discussion in 'CX-7 Engine/Transmission/Drivetrain' started by Alpha Wolf, May 21, 2021.

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  1. Alpha Wolf

    Alpha Wolf Greenie Member

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    Before I could get my Tune from PD tuning I had to upgrade my HPFP internals to allow it to flow enough to make the tune safe. No zoom zoom boom.....

    I purchased the internal kit from PD tuning (It was a Cobb kit). It had the internal parts needed and it was all well made.

    CX7 owners note that unlike the Demos on MS3's, there is enough room in the CX7 Bay to not require removal of the intercooler, the battery and mount along with the air intake intake.

    When removing your pump, be sure to put a zip tie below the nut on the metal hard line coming out the bottom of the pump to prevent your nut from sliding down under your engine. You will need 19mm and 17mm open end wrenches for this part.

    If you let your car sit overnight, there should be no pressure left in the line, I did disconnect the neg battery terminal just to be sure no one turned the key on. The two fuel lines on top are clips and gentle use of flat bladed screw drivers pops them off.

    The torque bolts holding the pump on will require a torque socket to remove.

    The two outlet tubes are removed using a T25 male with a deep hole in the middle to allow it to seat.

    You will need a vise to hold your pump and an deep 18mm socket to remove the nut under the spring. You can pull the piston and then spring out to take it apart, but you need it together when assembling it.

    Clean and lube the housing and the new internal parts.

    Put the new internal in, big in goes into the housing (Lots of oil on this and the shaft).

    Put the new shaft in (from the inside toward the outside) . The new shaft has keepers like valves/valve springs to hold the spring on. This is why you need the deep socket to put it back together. Put the cover/shaft/spring back onto the housing and torque down.

    Put the outlet lines back onto the housing using your T25 again.

    Lube the o ring on the housing and be extremely careful with it as if it is damaged you will have a leak.

    Put the pump back into the car. Attach fuel lines. Attach hard line at the bottom of the pump. Remove zip tie. Re connect the electrical connection. Re connect battery terminal.

    Start the car and check for leaks.

    My only catches were:
    1. The 25 torx which required a deep hole to allow the little stud to allow it to seat. (used to remove the two fuel lines. Mine had the hole, but it was not deep enough. No auto parts store here had one with a hole or with a hole deeper than mine. Had to buy a Snap On T25 to get one that would work. Pricey.

    2. The 18 deep socket required to remove the nut under the spring. I had a one for a 3/8 drive, but it was not open for its full depth and the spring interferred with the socket so it would not reach the nut. I had to search for one with a socket that was open all the way up and not tapered in. I had to use a 1/2 drive craftsman to get one to fit. So you will need a 1/2 drive and this 1/2 drive 18mm deep socket.

    Note if your pump has a black shaft and keepers holding the spring you may already have upgraded internals. If your pump has a silver/chrome looking shaft and a one piece top to spring cap you are stock.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2021
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  2. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    Did you mean to post this in how to section?

    PS the "Cobb" kit are auto Tech hpfp internals Cobb does not make them (they're excellent don't worry).
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, May 21, 2021
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  3. Alpha Wolf

    Alpha Wolf Greenie Member

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    It is an engine upgrade so I thought the engine section would be okay.
    If you think it belongs in another section as the moderator, you can move it if you like.
     
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