Idle issue/kr under 10+ psi boost

Datalog2:
Tip-in for this (WOT? Don't use throttle use pedal position aka APP) pull is lean as hell (>stoich) and the part where you get knock is lean as well (>12:1). This is *probably* due to your mix.
The knock causes heavy enrichment (dipping to a solid 9.26:1) which can be just as bad as too lean. 9.55:1 AFRs and 10 degrees of timing at 5500 RPM should not be seeing any knock.

No more WOT pulls for now.

Datalog3:
Idle log.
Fuel pressure, load, AFR, trims and airflow all pretty stable. Timing swings with RPM pretty good though.

1. Pull the intake filter and check to make sure there's no crap in the intake potentially blocking part of the straightener (usually vertical bars before the MAF sensor). Start the engine like this and see if it runs better.
2. Unplug the MAF, cold start the engine and see if it starts better. If not, the issue is spark or timing related (see #3).
3. Double check the position of the crank angle sensor (re-time the crank position sensor, if off even a little bit then retime the top while you're at it).

Also need to know what plugs and heat range they are in, when you last changed the air filter, what intake you have and maybe even a pic of the engine bay so we can see if anything stands out.

Your HPFP appears fine, so I wouldn't worry about that for now, though you should probably test the E85 pump you use to verify what mix you're running (anything over about E15-E20 and you absolutely have to tune for it).

 

So I’ll def have to post a new log with the revised stage 0 now on it an these issues aren’t as apparent. It has brand new cork sport 1 step colder plugs. Stock intake stock filter replaced last thousand miles. It is just some oreileys filter but I can’t imagine it’s that’s big a restriction on a stock intake. The engine bay is 100% stock. I was in an accident in my prior car. Waiting on big boy settlement to mod the fuck out of this car. I only mixed e fuel as it was said in multiple forums to do so to find real kr vs false. I will verify timing asap


Just to verify. Those logs are on souly 91 no mix. None in the tank. The new logs depending on when I get them might have e mix but if you’re all saying don’t mix without a tune I’ll stop doing that.

 

Don't use step colder on tuned-for mixes of E85; it needs the plug heat to run properly and *will* run like shit as a result (speaking from experience).

If that is the case, then that stage 0 map is fucking garbage. I mean, what the christ lol

Edit: Also what oil are you using?

 

I haven’t changed oil as it was changed prior. Pretty sure 5w-30 lol an yea. That was a stage 0 from idk when. I’ll post new logs In a few

 

one or two of these is a new wot with mix an new stage 0.
one of them should be an idle tune or two idle tunes with more info. should be ovious what they are.

 

Brand and type of oil matters for these engines. The wrong one could actually be at least partially responsible for all your KR. There's a thread here on the best (subjective, with UOA to validate) oils to run.

I'll have to wait a bit before I have availability to review your logs.

 

Appreciate the help sir ! I’m new to data logs and having data period. Chevy doesn’t have the AP an tuners are fucking snobs for Chevy


FYI DATA LOG 5 was a cold start where it was noticeably popping for no apparent reason an ignore the ltft being neg that’s right after a cel an reflash from me trying to run on just stock map an the AP not letting me.

That new WOT pull seems odd to me but I’m not sure why. The rpm signal seems to go sporadic an I’m not sure why. I don’t remember ever lifting or modulating an I can see it kind of goes wonky. If needed I’ll do another wot. All WOT pulls are 3rd 3k to 5.8/6k

 

RPM signal is based off crank sensor data. Check your harness going to the sensor. Make sure it doesn't have pinched wires, loose connector, or oil saturation in the connector from an oil leak. Those can all cause sporadic RPM readings.

 

Log5 looks similar to the first idle log, same with Log7, though airflow is significantly more random.

Log6, you're still missing APP, but have these PIDs you don't really need right now:
Abs. Press. (psi)
Baro. Press. (psi)
Cmd. EGR (%)
Cmd. EVAP (%)
HPFP Des. Press. (psi)

As for everything else, I'd still say you should check your CPS alignment, preferably using the blind plug tool specifically for our engines.

 

I'm reading here going wtf are corksport plugs? They're just selling NGKs LTR7IX-11, the more you know

 

Yea I haven’t gone an done any new pull with the current info. I shall do my best to adjust. The easier for you the better the help I get ! When I did my timing set I used all the tool specific for our cars. The pin. The crank pin to ensure balancer alignment an the plate to hold timing. I will absolutely check Tdc crank alignment. It’s the 25th tooth or something right ?

 

Not sure, best to consult the manual. Checking the CPS shouldn't take too long though.

 

Here an audio clip of the exhaust if it loads an two new logs. With no kr. The e mix seems to have fixed it which I believe means I have real knock. Which sucks. I verified tdc timing is happy. Tdc with plug on back of block an verify with intercooler off

any further data logs wont be accessible till tomorrow as I need my work comp to upload them

 

Pretty sure it's 20th tooth as mentioned in this thread:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...eed-3-mazdaspeed-6-cx-7-vvt-the-roku-way.855/

I cannot find mention of it in the FSM however the Top Dead Center Pin SST (TDCP) and Camshaft Alignment Plate SST (CAP) will be key, which you said you had. Does not mean it's not in the FSM just means I'm not finding it
Johhny Ts timing thread doesnt even mention counting teeth: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/timing-the-mzr-disi.8722/

 

Only thing I can see that might’ve fucked with my timing as of the sensor an crank balancer is that I never touched the non vvt gear. I left the vvt gear loose when setting timing so it could spin but didn’t have a new washer for the exhaust sprocket. It was all right when I was done. As everything can free spin I see no reason how that would cause an issue the bottom sprocket was free as was the vvt so. I’d really rather not tear my entire front cover off again lol. Those washers are terrifying.

 

If you can verify that alignment of the cams was done using the timing tools (and blind plug for the crank) then it all should be properly in time, and thus you probably only need to doublecheck the CPS. Also keep in mind that step colder plugs do NOT like corn and corn mixes, especially in cold weather.

Where in AZ are you located? There should be some braintrust in the area or worst case, a short drive away. Feel free to PM if you aren't comfortable disclosing publicly.

 

I can’t actually message cuz not enough posts lol. But I’m in phoenix Arizona. It gets maybe 65 on a cold day but it’ll be getting warmer quickly so. I got you more logs to look at. Kinda worried that a very small amount of E managed to fix my KR problem or the newer stage 0 did idk anymore

 

The E will run out eventually. Refill with good 91.

 

You get a chance to peep the new logs

 

Just because corn made the knock go away doesn't mean there isn't still an issue. Still need to check the CPS and figure out what oil is being used, and potentially change it if it's garbage because it WILL cost you your engine (not if but when), especially on a fat AFR factory tune.