Install hitch MS6

I'm installing hitch on my ms6 for bike rack.
Hitch is 24775 (Draw-Tite) made for Mazda6.
Going off pics from thread knew the brackets that bolt to spare tire pan needed to be modified. Can cut and weld or bend.
https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/trailer-hitch-for-the-mazdaspeed6.208093/page-2#post-3386356


I bent flat using press:






Remove bumper cover. Just like Mazda6 but on bottom have to remove two push pins. Five at back just secure shrouds to bumper cover. Two slightly higher further forward need just outside center secure cover and need to be removed (see pic where my feet are). And the ones on bottom by wheel if still have them need remove. The top one and bolt at front of wheel well. Then the screw and push pin after remove tail lights. Pops off sides and back.





Mazda6 vid:


Lower exhaust. Two hangers on each muffler.
Even with tool (exhaust hanger removal tool (get one if dont have as normally works amazing)) removing exhaust PITA for me. Every time its suck but I also have MF catback and cut tips/extended with straight pipe to fit OEM valances. Needs to align perfectly and not move so use stiff hangers. Hangers at rear are blocked by muffler outlets so need to use pry bars and other tools as hanger removal tool wont fit (large wrench as spacer, picks to expand holes in hangers, etc...). But if using oem hangers/oem exhaust it should be easy enough. If need help post as maybe I can offer more advice.


Remove two (one each side) (m8) bolts backside crashbar (12mm wrench)




I expected to strip or shear these bolts but came out fine. But use 6-point not 12...

Can see in this screenshot of video on etrailer for mazda6 there is no lip on frame rail where these bolts are which are used to mount hitch. On my MS6 even after removing lip, the central main tube of hitch hits the spare tire wheel well. After trying other options made it fit by bending tire well. But have to cut this lip.


Here are videos for mazda6
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/24775.html

Looking at this pic closer looks like they also cut and rewelded the middle brackets on each end of hitch main tube.


Stock hitch can see the brackets clearly stick out further than pic above so must have cut. There is no info provided in that thread.




Cutting and welding may be easier but I dont want to cut and weld hitch so have to cut lip around bolts removed. I traced hitch flange to peice of cardboard to get idea what needed cut. Basically to just below exhaust hanger...

Cutting this lip ended up being PITA for me. Got driver side cut with dremel and other tools in part because muffler heat shield was so rusted removed large chunks to get better access. What needed was die grinder/90° cut off tool. Lost mine so went and bought another to do passenger side along with cutoff spindle/discs and twist-lock mandrel and sand disc's. Die grinder with carbide burrs would have helped. Its a tight fit so good luck. Was also going to try ocselator tool but got it done just to find still no fit.










So as said above decided to bang in front of spare tire well ~1inch. Its needs to be bent less than sounds like. Spare will still fit.

The DS threaded tow pin on crashbar also needed to be cut at rear. I removed crash bar to cut.


Make sure to remove keyless sensor/wire harness before removing crash bar:






I ended up cutting a bit more where tow pin welded to crash bar so hitch bracket would be sort of flush. Issue is interferes with how high hitch can go and the flange alignment for m8 bolts.


The bracket on PS hitch needs end trimmed so doesn't interfere with gas emissions box braket.


Cut a bit more off end. Note my cover for emissions tank was already off so you will need to remove. Can reinstall just might need trim.


The provided replacement m8 bolts are too short due to pointed tip.
Can see would likely strip welded nut:


I used some 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm grade 8.8 bolts that I had. Ideally use grade 9.8 with ~¾ washer. 30mm should be long enough.



Used some metal in wheel well as after popping out grommets and rust issues, the provided brackets were barely larger than holes


Got the wheel well bolts hand tight and used jack and some clamps to hold hitch in place. I used jack under hitch to get sides aligned for m8 crash bar bolts. Install m8 bolts thru crash bar. My crash bar bolts were hand tight to allow some movement.

Install crash bar carriage bolts with blocks using snake wire. Make sure have hitch loose enough so there is a gap to get bolts aligned into hitch. Takes some wiggling to get these in. I had to use long plyers in crash bar to help seat.

All bolts in loose.


Tightened bolts thru hitch into backside crashbar (13mm), then other two oem 12mm crashbar bolts, and retightened hitch bolts to be sure (DS tightened up more so be sure to recheck).
Then 19mm bolts/nuts in spare tire pan.
Then 19mm nuts bottom crash bar carriage bolts.

Done.








Seal wheel well pan.

Reinstall keyless sensor (if installed).

Reattach exhaust. I used two sets expandable plyers where one on metal car hanger and other with one tip on rubber hanger on exhuast and other tip on 1st set plyers and went pretty good. If have plyers that can expand to 4-5in maybe would work if fit but my way also allows for offset. Mine only open to 2.5in or so, so thats what I did and worked. One rear PS was able to use C-clamp. That worked good too. I lubed but like I said the hangers im using are much stiffer than OEM so pita.

Install bumper cover....well nope need to trim for receiver. The shrouds cost $500 so yes this sucks. So need to do it correctly...I guess if overcut some black sealant will make unnoticeable. So I took my time and first cut inside bumper:




Reinstalled (best you can) and then cut shrouds a bit:


Easier to cut more later. I used ocselator/ vibrator/ multifunction tool. Hot knife be other option. Can undercut if tool using makes mess and clean up with razor.

Hat to cut a bit more off after test fit.

I did drip some super glue down between shroud seams that may help hold together. Doubt will bond to this plastic but whatever...nothing else will seep down so worth a try at least maybe get a mechanical bond.
Plastic welded around where cut to be sure secure.



Installed.