Installing Pistons Into Block and Crank

Pistons going in.

I got the pistons installed the night after I did the filing and here is how I did it. I had the machine shop connect the pistons to the rods as I hear that is a nightmare and it cost 40$.

Once again I watched this video which was a big help.
Video 1 - Assembling pistons and rods for a Mazdaspeed
Video 2 - Installing pistons and rods into a Mazdaspeed Block
Video 3 - Installing the Cylinder Head on a Mazdaspeed Block

I do not have as many picture as before as I just kept working and forgot about it but there is no much to see and the videos explain a lot.

1. Check that each pistons rings and in alignment and right side up before you start putting them in the cylinder.
2. Clean each cylinder with wd40 or ATF really well until the rag no longer changes color. I liked WD as it also keeps it from rusting. Then lightly oil it with some fresh 5w30 or similar. Clean them until the rag no longer turns colors and stays white.
3. Clean the crank and moderately lube with assembly lube. You will go through A TON of gloves and shop towels just keep grabbing fresh ones. Clean motor is happy motor.
4. Now clean all the bearings I did each set before I put them on the rods , follow the video for that. I used naptha for that. You want the back of the bearings to be dry and lube free plus super clean. You can add assembly lube once they are in their homes. Keep your gloves clean and be clean!
5. 
   
6. Now that you have the bearings on the rod and that looks all good you can pop the pistons into the block.
7. I did one at a time for the process vs doing batch of cleaning all and lubing all , do whatever works for you.
8. Don't forget to oil the rings and the cylinder walls.
9. I used the 88mm Wiesco compressor after reading stories of people killing themselves and their families trying to use the old school ones.
10. Double check that your rings are aligned per the previous post and the spec sheet.
11. Spin the crank so that it is at the bottom of the stroke so you don't nick it when putting the piston in.
12. 
    
13. Check the above pic for alignment. Intake side has the deep dish and the arrow points towards the timing side of the motor. make sure you match your pistons to where they shop marked them if you paid for a rotating assembly balance. If not , google it and weigh shit and figure it out yo. I can't tell you how to do it all.
14. Now you slide the rod in there , get it aligned and give it a quick tap with a rubber hammer handle. Might take a few tries but don't get frustrated and don't beat the shit out of it. Should just take 1 or 2 solid taps. If if feels wrong pull out bro and try again.
15. Once it is in the cylinder about 1" you can push it the rest of the way by hand to get it to seat on the crank.
16. You can do 2 pistons at a time as two will be up and two will be down "watch the video"
17. Now he is in his new home forever and ever.
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19. Get your rod bolts out and hand tighten then two you just did then repeat the process for the next two.
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21. Now follow the tq sequence on the spec sheet. I used ARP lube and not 5w30 on accident. I asked a few builders and they say it was all good and not to worry about it. Pretty sure the manley lube that some kits come with is just ARP anyways.
22. Double check that all parts are nice and lubed then turn it over a few times to make sure it sounds smooth unlike @KiwiFlavor j/k you #1
23. You now have a short block and so do I , USA USA USA
24. 

Bonus Material:

Oil Feed for the turbski on block - blue fitting - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 670440
Oil Feed for PTE Turbo on Turbo - Summit Racing® AN to NPT Adapter Fittings SUM-220446B
Oil Feed Line - Route behind heat shield 90 goes on turbo - Allstar Performance Braided Steel Brake Lines ALL46402-36

I was also told that I should use a crush washer for this instead of ptfe dope. I happened to have one laying around that fit perfect but if you need one just go to amazon or a parts store. Should be neat the oil drain plugs and is 12mm.