Installing the Cylinder Head to the Block

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 How-To' started by JohnnyTightlips, Jul 12, 2019.

Watchers:
1 user.
  1. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

    Joined:
    May 12, 2016
    Posts:
    1,556
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Iowa
    Ratings:
    +2,452 / -3
    Installing the Head

    [​IMG]

    You would think this would be pretty simple and it was but it also took forever. I got freektune h11's and they have a LONG install process which seemed very short compared to some of the stuff I have already done. The one thing that threw me a curve was that I had oiled and installed the buckets already and as I was going to install the head I noticed it was dripping oil onto the head gasket from the oil pathways. SMH so I had to soak the oil out of the head and clean that up as much as I could and then clean the new head gasket. I would recommend you take the buckets out and let the head drop out any excess oil and clean it will before moving on. At least enough so it does not drip on the head gasket.

    Parts List

    I got the cometic head gasket that Oddball Industries "on facebook" designed as it was recommended by @Sho and he is the best so I gotta listen.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the step by step on what I did. I pretty much followed Kevin's video but one thing I almost forgot to check which I am so glad I did was the cleanliness of the head stud holes in the block.

    1. Turn the block so that the head studs are angled down and spray the shit out of the holes with brake clean. Keep spraying until the brake clean comes out clear. Use the little straw so you don't spray other stuff that needs to stay lubed. When I did this it was a black stream of grossness so I am glad I cleaned it all out before following the tq sequence. Put a pan under the block to catch all the crap or you will have a mess.
    2. Turn the crank so the pistons are all hanging out in the middle for later.
    3. CLEAN IT, clean the mating surfaces of both the head and the block really really well. Then clean it again. Use lint free rags and Naptha or break clean just something to clean all oils and other crap off.
    4. I ended up going with the h11's as my plan is 500+ and the OEM head bolts can start to stretch around 500. If your plan is to stay around 450 then just stick to OEM as they are way cheaper. At this point the motor "if it ever runs" should be able to support anything I want to do.
    5. Watch this about 3 times.
    6. Oil the studs with fresh 5w30, just oil the side going into the block.
    7. Hand tighten the studs into the block, then turn them like 2 ft lbs more with a wrench to make sure they threaded all the way down.
    8. Loosen the studs then tighten them all down by hand and leave them alone.
    9. [​IMG]
    10. Clean the block surface again to make sure you did not drop any oil on it.
    11. Now put the head gasket on and align it as best you can.
    12. I would now put that lube the studs come with on the upper threads as it is a bitch to do with the head on.
    13. Now drop the head down slowly and then give it a few taps "rubber mallet or hand" to make sure it seated.
    14. Now lube up the washers and nuts really well and start following the tq sequence below.
    15. I used this tq wrench as it looks identical to the nicer brand one and I am pretty sure it is the same thing. It comes with a accuracy sheet and feels great in hand.
      ICON - 3/8 In. Drive Professional Click Type Torque Wrench
    16. Take your time and do it right then eat pizza rolls.
    17. [​IMG]
    18. [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 5
Loading...

Share This Page

Users Viewing Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 0)