Low oil pressure...

Did you just run lines off of a sandwich plate? Inline adapters for temp/pressure fittings?

 

I run this mishimoto kit,
https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-oil-cooler-kit.html


It’s mounted like so,


Sensors are installed into the mishimoto sandwich plate,


with the bumper on, and some microfiber’s to block air flow. I run with no thermostat in the cooler so it takes a while for the car to come up to temp, this was my simple solution,

 

That is a good looking setup. What kind of temp drops have you noticed?

 

I haven’t tested on track yet(the reason I went with this setup) but on the street, even on warm/hot days, with the cooler still blocked off, I’ve seen a max of 245f oil temps and that was after some serious backroad driving/pulls. Once I’m able to get on track I’ll remove the microfibers for a proper test. On the street this setup seems to be more then enough even with the cooler blocked off. Normal driving just around town with a little boosting here and there oil temp stays at about 190f

 

Well 92* in Detroit today, and my car hates it. Even with undertray and a baffle on, once coolant passes 200 there is just no coming back down. After baking at about 219 for the last 25 minutes of my drive, my oil pressure dropped as low as 13-15 psi at 800rpm idle. Fuck that. Time to do the cooling system up.

Parked it tonight. In the coming weeks I am going to take the front clip off, get rid of AC condenser, put a manual push fan on the front, put on a nonthermostatic oil cooler, add some super coolant to the system, and design a custom radiator shroud. I am getting tired of staring at my OP gauge and wondering when something will fail. Last resort will be upping the oil weight even further. I have no desire to take the motor out of the car this summer, but maybe this winter to go back through everything. I would just like to drive it this year.

 

I mean, 219 is normal. Can you get a colder thermostat instead?

 

The extra fan will only help if you are sitting still. The car moving will push more air than a fan ever would.

 

Something to look into for sure. By doing all of this I am likely bandaging a problem from a different source, but
the fact of the matter is that until my coolant hits and inevitably surpasses 200 and continues to soak there, my oil pressure is fine. I drove 45 minutes to work this morning and it was 72 ambient, oil pressure was fine the whole time. 18-22, and coolant never broke 205. Once the ambient jumped to 90 I broke 200F for most of the drive and the oil continued to thin

Correct. However my temperature issues always start when I'm not moving. Get caught in a spot where I sit still for a few minutes and I'm baking.

 

Hoping temperature issues are a thing of the past.... Just have to do a shroud and install the oil temp gauge, and we will find out.

 

What were your oil temps hitting before the new radiator? If the new radiator doesn't resolve your concern I could borrow you the extra oil/water radiator I've been using. It keeps oil temp within ~5 degrees of water.

 

Appreciate the offer! I just got an oil temp gauge, so I will never know the before. I am intrigued though, what does that setup consist of?

 

It's one of these. Barely fits in the passenger side between the tire and bumper.

BAT inc has some parts for it
https://www.batinc.net/laminova-cooling

https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/e112be6e/files/uploaded/laminova.pdf

EC54 250 I think.

 

What led you to run one of those?

 

Wanted an oil cooler, but didnt want the extra thermostat.

 

Update to all of this.
Pulled the trigger on the Mishimoto kit that gotovauto ran, and it made a world of difference. I also pulled the AC condenser, made new baffles for the radiator, got the undertray on, and installed manual slim fans to push on the front of the rad. I have run 2 or 3 tanks of gas through the car now, and am really starting to gain confidence in the car again. My oil temps consistently stay between 175 and 200, and coolant has not exceed 205. I am going to try to reintroduce methanol here shortly. Will keep everyone posted.

 

Hi, I know the thread is old but I am hoping that someone will still respond.

How were you able to run the sandwich adaptor plate because the MS3 uses a cartridge style filter and I am not too sure whether these can work with the sandwich adaptor plate as the screw on oil filters work. I am also experiencing low pressure when the heats up and is left to idle, the oil level indicator even comes on. But while the coolant temp is below about 90 degrees celsius there is no oil low oil pressure warning. I have to keep the car idling at 1000rpm for the warning to go away so I think maintaining lower oil temps will help me.

Thanks

 

It sounds like you have a mechanical problem with the pump or another part of the system. I don't think an oil cooler is where you should be looking

 

Thanks for the reply,

The reason I think it is caused by excessive temperature is because it only happens once the water temp is high. If I have been on a freeway drive the temp is below 90 degrees celcius and when I come to a stop there's no issue with the oil pressure warning until the water temperature increases due to being stuck in traffic. Even at cold startup there is no issue, only when the engine is "hot". These cars idle at worryingly high temperatures.

Just as a fun side note, I am also an engineer, aeronautical engineer. It is good to hear from a fellow engineer once in a while.

 

From personal experience,

I've idled the car with confirmed oil temps at 260f+. no low oil pressure light. pressure at that time was about 8-12psi. This is after coming off track, multiple multiple times a year. I can almost promise you, actually I will promise you your oil temps aren't even close to touching that.

more from personal experience,
at idle, after cruising, 32c ambient(90f) sitting in traffic oil temps linger around 220-230ish. This is definitely high but you should be making enough pressure to keep that pesky light away unless of course...excessive wear somewhere.

 

Do you know what the pressure actually is? The pressure light is generally a dummy light that comes on at 5psi or less which is no good and you have some issues if it is getting that low. If you can install a gauge and see what the pressure actually is that would help. Your idle pressure at 1k should be close to 20 when fully hot "210f" and your driving pressure should be close to 20 over RPM. So 3k rpm would be about 50psi.