Misfire/Lean-out issue

How did all the threads for the rail go bad? Isn't there like 4 spots to secure it?

 

The threads had already been mutilated before I pulled the rail off by the previous owner, putting torque on them only made the problem worse. I was hoping that some thread locker and well wishes would hold the rail in place. (obviously didn't work)

 

Alright, got the Heli-Coils installed today and so far no fuel leaks which is good!
However the misfire still persists (it's moved back to cyl 2, and now it's also throwing the codes for cylinder 1 deactivation and injector malfunction for cyl 1. I'm wondering if the injector may have been damaged when the fuel rail was pushed off. I'm hoping it's just electrical Gremlins as the car ran fine all the way to the gas station and back.

 

So drove the car to get registered today after clearing the codes and theisfire is still there, but not as bad as before. It is also throwing this code.

 

Had that code popped up on the CX-7. The damn intake runner thingy was not closing all the way or was stuck open. One of the two. But that code is your little switch on the right side, next to your intake manifold.


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Yeah, mines a break in the wiring, just found it. Also broke that little plastic tab that the plunger presses on as well so it's looking like I'll need to weld/sodder to fix all that.

 

If you do not feel like fixing it, you can bypass the circuit with any starter kill switch relay. I did this when I needed the CX7 to pass CA Smog. Let me know if go this route, I can post a diagram if need be.



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Is that going to affect engine performance/health? If I can find the connector online, I should be able to solder the wires back together. Just need to find this clip.

 

No, that plug just goes to a switch that tells your computer that the runner is in the open or closed position. Most just delete the code in ATR and never look back. The only problem that could affect the engine performance is if it were stuck closed, but is unlikely.


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godspeed and good luck.

 

That's what I was thinking. I've watched the actuator operate so it's fine. I've got a new clip to splice in on both sides, also gonna try to jb weld the little plastic piece back on before I just bend it.

 

So now the car will start up and be fine until it starts to warm up, then the intermittent misfires come back. Also when stepping on the gas, I noticed black smoke comming out the back. But it doesn't smell like oil.

Edit: only happens above 4k revs

 

Just found these bolts in my back seat, not sure what they go to.

 

They look like the bolts that hold the front seats in place.

 

Haha, I think I figured out where they went.

 

New BPV is installed, I also re-installed the bigger intercooler I had from the previous owner. I'm starting to think this either an electrical / exhaust related misfire.

 

So Ive been running the stock range plugs for awhile now and just pulled them out. Pic is of 1-4 left to right. 1 and 3 look super rich while 2 and 4 look lean.

 

This might be the end, my car now starts and idles fine after installing new coils, but misfires like crazy under load. It's throwing the code for cylinder 3. I pulled the coil and plug and checked and it's got a decent amount of standing oil in it. Is there any hope of saving this engine besides a full rebuild?

 

Hey, did you ever get this solved? I'm having a similar issue with a cylinder 3 misfire under acceleration. I've already swapped around plugs and coils and replaced the injector yet the problem persists.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Most likely rings, as that was the issue for mine. I ended up selling that hunk of junk and got something surprisingly more reliable.