New car problems

Other than the seat though I believe everything is run the way it should be.

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If you bypass the EBCS and hit spring pressure the WG should be good but if it takes forever for boost to build it could still have a seat issue on top of the EBCS being bad. New EBCS is cheap so just buy another one. Does not matter the direction it is wired in and you can add a harness to it if you want.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/p...hWBE35j5eD0ip6ReJEkv53pGFQ9R2Ge_HxGQHTUWYOzAw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-3-Port...noid-Valve-35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA-5-4W/313318045360

 

What do you mean does not matter the direction?

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Solenoids don't generally have a positive and negative wire; it doesn't matter.

 

So update. Replaced pcv valve and added 2 catch cans. 1 off pcv valve, and 1 off the valve cover breather. Still smoking at idle, still get a burning oil smell, and I noticed a sizable puddle under the dump tube coming off the waste gate. I cant be positive its coming from the dump tube, but its immediately under it.
Any ideas?

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UV dye and black light...

 

Like looking for a leak in a coolant system?

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Basically UV dye oil compatable and see where it comes out.

 

If it is infact coming out of the dump tube, why would that be?. It looks like it may be dripping from the return line, but not enough to puddle like that. This car is a mess.

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If it's coming out of the dump tube turbo seals are done. Turbo rebuild time

 

Do you know if there is any way to diagnose that. I don't know for sure, but from what I was told this turbo is less than a year old. What would cause them to go that quickly if it is that new? Is there anything else that would cause that other than the seals?


Is there any way to diagnose that? Not that I know for sure, but I was told the turbo was I stalled in the last year. What would make it go so quickly? Also could there be anything else causing it besides that? I thought it was a pcv thing pushing oil up the return line, but I just replaced that.

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.. double post merged by moderator...

 

Stalling a turbo can trash the chra

 

Sorry I meant installed in the last year, not stalled.

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I am wondering if a step back to basics first. Checked posts and no mention of compression check. All those mods look nice, but basically if oil problems have the engine baseline first steps been verified? Compression, VVT, double check TDC and timing. Then when basics are done. Move to boost pressure, oil problems. Seems painful, but presumably easier in the long run. Sorry if this seems a step backwards. The great thing is the time is not a waste, you will then know going forward your baseline and changes.

 

I don't disagree. Can't build if your foundation isn't solid. Unfortunately I bought this car not knowing a tone about it and made an obviously incorrect assumption the it was solid, so I kind of am working backwards. I will say I just pulled the exhaust manifold and there is no oil in the manifold, or on the hot side of the turbo, just a ton of carbon build up.

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I know this is from a while ago, but have been traveling a lot for work and haven't had time to mess with this pain in the ass. If anyone could weigh in on the current situation it would be much appreciated. These may be related, or it may be multiple problems. Was in the process of getting car tuned with pd tuning. Having problems with a cylinder 2 misfire and high kr. Replaced plugs with ngk 6510. Gapped at .024 per Will's recommendation. Not showing misfire, but I had battery disconnected so it may not have come back yet. Still have high kr. Hitting 6.5 durring higher in rpms when doing wot. Did a compression test showing
(1) 160
(2) 135
(3) 140
(4) 170
These were only done dry.
Did a leak down and got between 15-20% drop on each. Sound coming from oil fill. I will say the car was pretty cold during the leak down. I seem to have excessive pressure in valve cover. Have a vented dammond catch can running from valve cover to intake and oil is still seeping past gasket. On the back corner by the turbo it's actually spitting out. Vent on catch can is also smoking at idle but goes away once car is warmed up. Any help would be appreciated. I'm landing on piston rings which is super annoying considering this motor was supposedly built in the last year and has Manley pistons. Any input would be a big help. Thanks.

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Sounds like broken ring lands

 

Any other possibilities? What do you think could have caused this?

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Usually heat + boost. Aka beating on the car with a heat soaked tmic. Especially with the stock ring gaps being like 0.012

 

Car has a fmic. I'm just wondering because I bought it being told the motor was rebuilt in the last year. New rods, pistons, studs, and a new head.

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