P0193 and replacing fuel pressure sensor

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3/6 Engine' started by jsilva, Jun 9, 2021.

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  1. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    After enjoying driving my car for the past few months of course it develops a real issue…

    I was driving in stop and go traffic and it felt like it had stronger hesitations (wouldn’t call it bucking) and then the CEL came on. I checked the code and it was P0193—Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High. But about 10 seconds after the incident the car was fine. So I cleared the code and kept driving it for the next hour or so. Seemed fine.

    Then it started hesitating again with irregular accelerator response and I looked at my ODB app. The fuel pressure was moving up and down from 300-2200 fairly quickly. I parked it and when I started it up 15 min later it was fine.

    When I finally arrived home it stalled after idling in the driveway. After that the fuel pressure stayed at 2281. I tried reversing a little and the pressure went down maybe 80 and went back up.

    I saw this similar thread:

    https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/p0193-stalled-wont-start-out-of-the-blue.4382/

    I’ll go ahead and replace the sensor, but does anyone know how to safely do it? The OP hasn’t logged in since 2017. I know Mazda says to replace the entire fuel rail, but this is already an eBay replacement I installed last year. I’d rather just try replacing the sensor.
     
  2. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    Disconnect battery, unplug sensor, unscrew it, put new OEM one in, reconnect battery. Key on engine off for ~10 seconds 3 times. Turn car on should be fine.

    Put some rags under sensor to catch fuel return removing it, and only use an OEM sensor no need to replace whole rail
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Jun 9, 2021
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  3. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Thanks. Do you have any thoughts on how tight? Torque estimation? Any thread sealant? My concern is simply because when bought the car the sensor was leaking, and it turned out the threads on the rail were toast—it wasn’t even in straight. So I don’t want a repeat of a leaky sensor.
     
  4. rrodriguez9921

    rrodriguez9921 Greenie N00B Member

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    does not need to be super tight, Just enough. If u need a rail - I have some laying around from different pat outs.
     
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  5. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    If the threads in rail are toast then I'd be replacing the rail as well since just a sensor probably won't solve the issue.
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Jun 10, 2021 at 8:29 AM
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  6. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Sorry I wasn’t clear. The rail with the damaged threads is what was originally on the car as I bought it. I replaced the rail with a used part Jan 2020 once I identified the leak and saw the damaged threads.
     
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