Parts Order List

What's up y'all??

TL;DR - buying AP, internals, brake kit, PMM/TMM - what next?



My 2008 Speed3 has been patiently waiting for me to spend some money on her....well it's finally time!
I have a pretty good sized order I'm about to place with Edge looking like tomorrow.
Ordering AP, Internals, StopTech Brake Kit, and PMM/TMM (looking into JBR or Damond).

Past that, I'm curious about what I would possibly be looking at next.
I have full exhaust, TR8 and piping kit towards the top of my list but I also have things like BPV, MAP, 3.5' intake, and upgraded clutch among a list of other parts as well (suspension, chassis brace, front lip, spoiler change, etc.)

I don't know if y'all were as excited as I am about starting to mod but I want to make sure I take my time (kinda) doing this as this is a huge learning experience for me. To kind of open up some, I don't know a whole lot by comparison to most (ask @Raider I ask him a ton of questions) but try to do my research so I don't rush into anything and get in trouble. I have been wanting to do this for YEARS and have worked hard to be able to do this, plus a little luck I don't want to let the excitement overwhelm me.

Any input is really appreciated.
Thank you!

 

Take your time and don't run ots tunes. Ask me what happens when you do...ZZB!!!

 

@Sleepin6 please share.....

 

I have a 2006 ms6 and bought with high mileage cheap. Started modding in the correct way but ran an ots stage 3 map without getting it professionally tuned and burnt an exhaust valve. I'm now rebuilding a forged engine. Also high mileage turbo motors don't last if you don't know the history of maintenance and care for the car before you get it.

 

what are your power goals?

 

After ur order, i would say go 3.5 intake, downpipe, fmic, find an e85 station and get tuned. A nice bpv for a splash of rice would b nice too

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

If you are looking to save some cash do a double resonator delete for about the same sound as a cat back will give you.

That and a test pipe should be good for a while from what I've read.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Damn that's shitty. I do appreciate the insight as I feel most people run an OTS map without getting a proper tune because it's the quick way. It's things like this that I am trying to avoid!

 

If you're already investing hundreds or more in parts, a proper tune is a minor additional price to pay to know you've got a pro setting your car up to run at its maximum safe potential.

That said, if you're at the point of needing to tune but aren't ready yet to go full custom (waiting on a last power upgrade, for example), you can get a cheaper "OTS" map from guys like Freektune or Stratified. Or, if you're at the right point in the mod path to match up, Strat also offers some free S-OTS maps that run the advantage of no cost while still knowing they were mapped out by a very reputable and experienced bunch.

 

What he said ⬆️ is exactly what I should have done. The guys on here have been through it all so trust them with your car and you will be telling people the same stuff and feeling good about it....and your engine won't zzb!
[doublepost=1485108123][/doublepost]

By the looks of your profile your on your way to greatness on this forum. Good luck!

 

That is pretty much what I am thinking next.
3.5' intake, full exhaust (Corksport), and fmic (TR8).

 

talk to you local nator... lol

 

To echo what's been said: most important mod, by far, is a proper tune. 3.5" intake is way overkill on a K04 (it can support double the power a K04 can make), unless you plan to BT one day and are future-proofing.

 

FMIC is lame unless you're planning on pushing some power. Spend the cash for a meth kit for better cooling ability and you can get the aux fueling capability out of it... plus you'll need it for that flamethrower of a k04 anyways.

 

Just for the sake of data, on my ETS TMIC, my BATs were 35-40 degrees over IAT @ redline on K04. With my TR8C setup, my BATs were 15-20 degrees over IAT @ redline. I've found that a 20-degree difference in BATs can have an appreciable impact on power. When I began running methanol too, this underscored this fact even more. Whereas I used to get down to 350whp in the summertime, now my methanol keeps me at 365whp in 100+ degree ambients (on a BNR S3). Just food for thought. Speeds respond VERY well to lower BATs. I've seen as much as a 30whp variance between the coldest winter days and the hottest summer days.

 

Were you running meth before or after you switched to the FMIC? BATs should've been dropping like a girl's panties while witnessing my beard regardless of FMIC or TMIC.

 

Those BATs results were all pre-methanol. I ran the FMIC for a while before going to methanol. Now, my BATs are ~10 degrees under IAT @ redline. At their lowest (mid-pull), they drop all the way down to maybe -20-25 degrees under initial BAT with methanol and up @ ~ -10 degrees under IAT at redline instead of +15 to +20. So the net change is -25 to -30 degrees @ redline. Chemical cooling FTW!

With a TMIC, I'm sure methanol would still be awesome (much better than simply going FMIC). But with a FMIC+methanol, it's even better than TMIC+methanol terms of lower overall BATs in addition with no major heatsoak, etc., during conditions when the methanol isn't flowing.

 

I apologize I didn't see your comment.
TBH, I don't have a particular number in mind. I hit 225 Oct '16 with an SRI and that's it. Plus I was misfiring pretty badly. I would like to hit 300 to start and then go from there. I'm also big on handling, so I have tried to dial that in before I start going after more HP. Plus, this is somewhat of a daunting task so patience is key for me. Never really done any extensive engine work before.
[doublepost=1485316049][/doublepost]

Oh I will!! Waiting on parts to arrive. Hoping they will be here Friday!