RaiderFab GenPu Bumper Bracket How-To for Genpus - Complete!

Discussion in 'RaiderFab Bumper Fitment Solutions' started by Redline, Mar 1, 2017.

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  1. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    First off: tools needed for the job:
    upload_2017-3-2_18-44-36.png
    1/4" drive ratchet
    10mm short socket
    10mm deep well socket
    1/4" extension (can come in handy)
    10mm small crescent/box-end wrench
    7/8" socket to tighten latches to bumper (assuming your latches are the same size as mine)
    Shorty phillips head
    Trim removal tool (very helpful for removing wheel well retaining clips)

    Not pictured:
    Ruler
    1/8" and 1/4" drill bits for your pilot holes
    Stepped drill bit that starts at 1/4" and goes up to 3/4" (the OD of the latches I have -
    measure yours to make sure they're not a different size!)
    Drill, obviously
    Sticky Tack and grease or something it won't stick well to, like tire shine
    Loctite - optional
    Jack/Jackstands - this makes undoing the fenderwell liners much easier to take the bumper off
    Regarding the step-bit, one like this would be ideal - 1/8" starting and goes up to at least 3/4" and beyond:
    upload_2017-3-2_19-40-4.png

    Top of my latches:
    upload_2017-3-2_18-51-35.png

    Bottom of my latches (sorry for blurriness):
    upload_2017-3-2_18-52-55.png

    With your tools in hand, first order of business is removing the bumper. Lots of how-tos on this for FMICs:

    You only need to remove the front 11 (seen here, in blue):
    upload_2017-3-2_19-5-35.png

    Then you remove the three retaining clips and one screw from each fenderwell (you won't need the screws anymore - they screw into the stock bumper retaining brackets, which you're replacing with the new SS ones):
    upload_2017-3-2_19-10-17.png
    upload_2017-3-2_19-12-36.png
    (Screws no longer needed. Save them! They're expensive and found all over our Speeds)

    upload_2017-3-2_19-15-12.png
    Move up top and remove the retaining clips/screws. Your bumper can now be removed. Be careful to unplug the wiring harness on the passenger's side, or just swing the bumper out of the way to give you room to work.

    Next, remove the two OEM bumper brackets. Each is held in with 2 10mm bolts (keeps these, you re-use them!) and a pinch clip. They're located right under the headlights. They look like this (they're asymmetrical mirror images of each other):
    upload_2017-3-2_19-19-37.png

    Now I would recommend installing Raider's Fenderwell bumper fix for the first latch, if you have it:
    https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...zdaspeed3-genpu-bumper-fitment-solution.2904/

    Bear in mind that this fix will need to be shimmed out with 3-4 2mm SS washers for the bumper bracket to sit correctly (UPDATE: Now we use the machined aluminum spacers Raider includes instead of SS washers). So body panel > aluminum spacer > Bracket > nut that holds it all onto the Raider/Faeker latch stud. Also, write down this distance after you're done:
    upload_2017-3-2_19-35-33.png
    When you drill the hole/mount the latch on the bracket near the light, I recommend doing so in a place that'll make the latch match this distance as close as possible. Not only will be it more aesthetically pleasing, but it'll minimize chance of dimpling and it'll secure the bumper well.

    upload_2017-3-2_19-42-39.png
    See how my left hole is a lot farther from the edge? This is less than ideal, but I did what I had to with the stupid previous kit. I also was having to route-out my mounting holes to try to adjust fitment because my old brackets were so flimsy! LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES! :D

    To find the place where you'll drill the hole, first you have to assemble and mount your brackets:
    upload_2017-3-2_19-46-22.png
    upload_2017-3-2_19-47-3.png
    I chose to use regular nuts instead of locknuts or lock washers. This makes the adjustment phase A LOT easier.

    Then, bolt each bracket onto the car with the aluminum shimming spacers between each bracket mounting point and the body:
    upload_2017-3-2_19-49-23.png
    upload_2017-3-2_19-50-34.png
    upload_2017-3-2_19-55-23.png
    (Why enough shims are necessary)

    After you tighten down the mounting bolts good and tight, it's time to get the studs where you want them. This will determine the latch location. PLEASE bear in mind what I said about Raider's/Faeker's location earlier. Also, remember the stud location is the CENTER of the latch, so take the overall latch diameter into account to get its edge the correct distance away from the bumper's edge by the headlight. WIth the adjustment slots, you have a lot of adjustability. Breaking out a ruler to make sure each side matches the other as close as possible is a good idea. One you drill your bumper, you're past the point of no return.

    [​IMG]
    Now you coat the end of the stud with grease. Tire shine works well, too. Estimate the stud length so that when you temporary slide the bumper back on, get everything exactly where you want it (fender/bumper lines, etc) and press the coated stud into the sticky tack. With the grease, it'll slide right off and give you the location for your pilot hole. You may have to do this step several times if your stud length needs adjusted. Ideally, the stud head will press fully against the bumper when the panel is flush with the fender. If you need to adjust a stud, double check and make sure other stud is exactly the same location for symmetry.

    Then, drill a 1/8" pilot hole. Check and see if it's right over the stud. If it is, bingo, and it'll look like this:
    upload_2017-3-2_20-8-56.png
    If so, now use the 1/4" bit (or whatever is needed) to get you up to the beginning size of the step bit. Then, use the step bit to drill to the size where the latch slides in with firm pressure. Mine were 3/4", IIRC.

    upload_2017-3-2_20-15-53.png
    Now mount the latches to the bumpers with the 7/8" socket. I used an adapter and 1/4" drive for extra torque. You could use a dab of loctite if you want. Doing that and not tightening quite so much minimizes the chance of dimpling.

    Then, test fit your bumper. If the lines between your fender and bumper aren't parallel, raise or lower the stud as necessary. If the bumper sits recessed in and the fender is farther out, adjust the stud to be longer. If the fender is recessed compared to the bumper, adjust the stud to be shorter. Also, be VERY CAREFUL not to yank on the bumper skin while disconnecting it. Make sure the latch releases cleanly, then pull it off. When you think you have it all set, move to the next phase.

    Now, remount the bumper with all the bolts, latches, pins, screws, etc., on the top of the bumper. Leave the fenderwells detached. Also leave the leftmost and rightmost three screws on the the bottom of the bumper out, only installing the middle five fasteners. this will help give you have wiggle room to get in between the fender and the fender liner with the crescent wrench and 10mm deep well, as needed; AND it'll help the bumper be "stretched" in a way where it's seeing forces more in common with being fully secured. I find this the best stat for it to be in to fine-tune stud adjustment. Otherwise you'll get the dimpling I got, which is primarily due to the inferior kit I used before. The re-adjusting is also done with the 10mm box-end/crescent on one nut, and the 10mm deep-well/ratchet on the other.You may want to use a Sharpie or a dry erase marker to track and make minute adjustments. Going just a tad too loose when adjusting the stud can send the whole thing sliding to the bottom of the slot. ARGH!!!!!

    This can be BY FAR the most meticulous and time-consuming part of the job. You'll likely take the bumper off and put it back on dozens of times, if you're unlucky. I was. Or, your initial adjustments were perfect before putting the fasteners back in. Lucky you!

    *Updated Alternative Adjustment Strategy: since Raider is sending out aluminum spacers to shim out the brackets, taking the brackets off without dropping/losing a tiny washer is no longer an issue. The spacers will be much bigger/easier to handle. So, to make your fine-tuning stud adjustments, you can just take off the whole bracket, use a dry erase marker around the base of the nuts as a reference point, adjust, remount, and re-test. The de- and remounting takes some time, but it is VERY NICE to have easy access to the nuts on both sides. Because of this, using a nylon lock nut on the back is much more feasible too (compared to trying to squeeze a crescent/box-end wrench behind the mounted bracket and make adjustments on it on the car. Besides, the time you save making the changes with the bracket off may mean it actually takes less time than adjusting the pins while on the car.

    Best ways to avoid dimpling:
    1) What I just said above - DON'T yank on the bumper skin as you press the latch buttons to get the bumper off.
    2) Again, using loctite to secure the latch retaining bolts and NOT over-tightening them on the bumper, which can flatten the area where the latch is and cause a visible distortion.
    3) Picking a good latch location, like I suggested above regarding something that matches Raider's/Faeker's distance from the latch to the fender.

    That's it! My final results (not perfect, but I had a LOT to deal with regarding my old kit). All things considered, I am very pleased and these latches are very strong. If you follow my how-to, you should have zero of the issues I had. I've reached the pic-count upload limit, so see my results below.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 17, 2017
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  2. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    upload_2017-3-2_20-34-43.png

    upload_2017-3-2_20-35-17.png

    upload_2017-3-2_20-36-5.png

    upload_2017-3-2_20-37-8.png

    upload_2017-3-2_20-38-1.png

    upload_2017-3-2_20-38-49.png
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2017
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  3. Mastermind46

    Mastermind46 Gold Member

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    Thank you so much for undertaking this. I cannot wait to see the finished results and get started on mine.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
     
    Mastermind46, via a mobile device, Mar 1, 2017
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  4. monkey.bones.007

    monkey.bones.007 Platinum Member

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    Does this mean your bumper will rip off in spectacular fashion because you didn't tighten down a bracket nut and we can move on from the wheel that fell off because of loose lugs?

    Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
     
    monkey.bones.007, via a mobile device, Mar 2, 2017
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  5. Mastermind46

    Mastermind46 Gold Member

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    ... some things I really should keep to myself.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
     
    Mastermind46, via a mobile device, Mar 2, 2017
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  6. monkey.bones.007

    monkey.bones.007 Platinum Member

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    We can always do it at my place and I'll guarantee it'll be checked to make sure it doesn't rip off. We can also see if we can get your shoulder to pop out of the socket again when a dildo flies toward your face.

    Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
     
    monkey.bones.007, via a mobile device, Mar 2, 2017
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  7. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    Forum Life: you make a How-To thread and the strangest stuff shows up in it o.0
    LOL :D
     
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  8. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Those who are installing the fenderwell latch will be using the fenderwell part of the bracket to mount it, further back. Thus, the taped slot on V1 brackets.
     
    Raider, via an iPhone, Mar 3, 2017
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  9. superman

    superman Gold Member

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    ?
    So the latch positioning will be the same as Redline's and we should not pay attention to the black speed3 with the original raderfab fix?
     
  10. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Nope. Not like Redline. Don't use taped slot. Used the back bolt hole like in @Faeker's fenderwell fix.
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Mar 3, 2017
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  11. GCPhotographers

    GCPhotographers Silver Member

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    Watch me jack it up...lol
     
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  12. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    Exactly - Use Raider's/Faeker's solution for the latch closest to the wheel well, which means you DON'T use the bracket slot that's closest to the wheelwell. Instead, use the slot that's closest to the front of the car to address keeping the front-most bumper area under the headlight in place.
     
  13. superman

    superman Gold Member

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    Ok cool. I like the positioning a little better. Did it cost more to have the slot we aren't using made?
     
  14. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    Well, just got back from morning class today. I drove the car somewhat aggressively, tossed it around some, got into boost, etc. Got out of the car for the moment of truth...... and?

    SUCCESS!!! My bumpers are EXACTLY where I left them when I finished the install. As I thought, these much strong/much more rigid brackets did exactly what they're designed to do: kept my bumper exactly where I want it. Special shoutout to @Raider and @Maisonvi for helping me through this whole ordeal and making it available to the community. I know there were headaches and some issues in execution; but I hope you see your blood, sweat, and tears as worthwhile, given the outcome. Logistics usually always need ironed out in the production of a new product - just goes with the territory. I really appreciate you both, and hope you're not regretful in any way, in light of the final outcome.
    --- Double Post Merged, Mar 3, 2017 ---
    The slots have a lot of adjustability. My studs are mounted pretty low in the slots. You could raise them up a lot higher (I couldn't because my bumper was already drilled for the previous product). But sliding the studs up higher, they could look very similar to this:
    upload_2017-3-3_11-26-22.png
    Our slots are different, so you couldn't match the EXACT location as what's used in this pic, but you could get something very close to it if you used both slots instead of just the frontmost slot and Raider's wheel arch location for the second latch and mounted your latch stud up a lot higher, which our brackets allow for.

    I will say this, though, Raider's/Faeker's latch location for the area closest to the tire is IDEAL for immobilizing the bumper exactly in relation to the fender right there at the corner. It's a great spot for this reason and therefore makes it a great anchor if you use that location and install that pin/latch first to then install the second latch (the rightmost one, in this pic).

    Bear in mind, you have options! The slots give a lot of variation in look you're going for. But I made my recommendations above (in the How-To) with three main things in mind: 1) Performance - keeping the bumper exactly where you want it; 2) Avoiding bumper dimpling (concave or convex) or other unsightly distortions; 3) Aesthetics - specifically by having both latches equidistant to the bumper/fender meeting line.

    You may need different length studs if you do this, though. I'm not sure the length Raider provides for the Raider/Faeker Wheelwell bumper fix. I used two 1.25" studs on each side mounting the studs in the slots locations.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2017
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  15. superman

    superman Gold Member

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    that means I have to make a decision before i start drilling holes... Dang it. So really a person could do 1, 2 or even 3 latches per side with this bracket
     
  16. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    Yep. I personally think 3 would look too busy, though.
     
  17. superman

    superman Gold Member

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    agreed. Who's car is the white one?
     
  18. Redline

    Redline The Notorious R.E.D. Gold Member

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    Don't know. That was from another solution that costed way too much (~$250) and was extremely flimsy; the one I tried first.
     
  19. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    The @Faeker kit is spec'd with a longer stud for it. So that's gold.

    @Maisonvi is machining the 8mm spacers for everyone who would like them to mount under the bracket. Once I get em, I'll mail them out at no cost. Simply pm me!
     
    Raider, via an iPhone, Mar 3, 2017
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  20. Faeker

    Faeker Gold Member

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    3 latches is completely unnecessary. 2 is perfect. they handle our problem spots like a champ.
     
    Faeker, via a mobile device, Mar 3, 2017
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