Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by Sho, Feb 10, 2016.
Clutch is here! Install date is tentative for Sept 10th.
Are you using the act tob or getting an oem? just curious.
The ACT unless someone advises otherwise. I've had the oem TOB fail on my last 6 puck. So not too sure what to do...
When I pulled my old 6 puck off my car (now have a luxurious SB Stage 3 Endurance), it happened to be the ACT TOB. Seems legit. Lasted 36k on that clutch before the friction material was down to the rivets. If that means anything.
The ACT TOB is about as noisy as the stocker and similar in design. Try putting some thick grease between the TOB and the input shaft sleeve thingie and it'll stay quiet for at least 5k miles or so before it starts to rattle like a mofo like everyone else's, least that was my experience. haha
I don't think it's possible for the ACT TOB to be worse than the stocker in terms of longevity honestly.
Makes sense, they look very similar and both have a bit of slop straight out of the box. Car will be getting retired from daily driver in the next 6 months anyways, so it is what it is.
And Damn you for the dislike lol
Hey man, I dislike not seeing power numbers after reading through your build! Can't help myself. I wish we had met at ENM so I could see all of the work you've done with my own eyes. Any chance you'll be at midwest meet?
Lol! Now that it's been a few months, I can divulge. 470/350 is the daily map, 406/310 is the twisty map, 500/400 is the let's hurt the local ricers feelings map. Once the 6 puck is in, we'll retune as boost ramps up really slow right now in the low and mid range, to keep tq down for the stock clutch. Now that the clutch won't be a restriction, we'll turn it loose!
I won't be at Midwest meet. Weddings and bachelor parties for my friends have wiped out the travel budget for the rest of the year. My engine bay is ugly/dirty, though. I'm all about function over form. The chassis has well over 200k miles and the built motor is nearing 50k miles. Just trying to keep it running well, ZFG about how it looks, haha
A man after my own heart. Cars that actually get used, get dirty.
You will love the 6 puck. The amount of grip it has is amazing for how little it costs. The first time you drop that clutch when shifting quickly, you will shit your pants. Those Damond motor mounts will come in handy.
I can't wait. I ran a 6 puck for a short 11 months (52k miles) before, and it was awesome. I enjoyed the engagement much more than that on the stock clutch. It's just a shame I drive so much. This will be clutch #4 for me.
Keep in mind I bought the car in August 2012, with 25k miles.
Original oem clutch replaced April 2014 at 95k miles, and replaced with 6 puck w/ Streetlite Flywheel.
6 puck failed March 2015 at 147k miles, replaced in a pinch with a stock clutch that already had 152k on it.
And here i sit at 210k, about to put a 6 puck back in, in a few weeks.
The new 6 pucks are better than the old ones. Much lighter pedal feel and way easier to drive. And seem to be pretty long lived. I'll be interested to see how long mine lasts.
Swapped back over to the 6 puck Saturday. Started working on the car around noon, and with @DVM17 and our friend, Warren's help, had everything back together and running by midnight.
Only issue after heading home on the 115 mile drive from PA to home was when I'd coast to a stop in neutral, rpm would dip and hold at 500 until I came to a complete stop, and then hold at 1500rpm, unless I pushed the clutch in... Then it would idle at normal 950rpm. It finally threw a code for the park/neutral sensor 50 miles from home. Got under the car and pulled that connector, cleaned it and put back together and all is well now!
Here's the disc that came out.
My built motor officially has 50k miles on it as of yesterday. I need to retire this thing from daily driving asap lol. Took just a few days shy of 13 months to put that mileage on it.
Quite the opposite, sounds like you're doing something right to me.
Moreso I'd rather not have to drive it through another winter. They use so much road salt up here, that it destroys cars. I have rust forming on my hatch and on the drivers rear fender. I love this car and can't ever see my self selling it (especially since it's worth nothing having 212k on the chassis). The previous owner never drove it in the winter the 5 years he had it. I just wanna preserve the body and chassis as long as possible.
So on Thursday Sept 29th, I was on my way home from work and my car started acting up and shut off on me. Acting the same way as early in the summer when my crank position sensor harness started rubbing on the axle and would short out and pop the ENG BAR 1 fuse.
This time it wasn't throwing any codes and was not popping the fuse, however.
I cut that portion of the harness off and completely redid all the wires and shielded everything and tied it up as to not hang down and touch the axel.
Still was having issues with it shutting off. Made a thread in the trouble shooting section and posted some logs of when the car would start shutting off and starting up on its own before dying while idling. Enki noticed my maf sensor voltage was spiking right before the car started going haywire.
Changed the maf sensor Sunday the 2nd, Drove it 45 miles home from the shop. Then Monday, I made it about 50 miles before the car shut off on me. After it shut off, it just would crank. I left it on the side of the road for 20 min, got back in and it started up and I drove it another 6 miles home.
Saturday night I had a friend pick the car up and load it on his trailer and tow it back to the shop. I Swapped the crank position sensor, let it idle a while, drove it around the block a few times and drove it home again. So far, 140 miles with a few wot pulls without issue. I did suck it up and finally buy a daily driver though. Driving 1000 miles a week in a 500hp car with 214k miles on the Chassis was getting to be too much of a crap shoot. 2010 Mazda 3 sedan with tech. Had 65k miles and is a 6spd manual. Decent enough for work. Ms3 will be retired to fun drives and whatnot.
600+ miles since swapping the crank position sensor and no issues. So that must've been my problem.
Now to swap the drivers side axle. The inner boot has been torn for some time and now starting to get a vibration that gets worse as speed increases. Gonna try to swap that out soon and check all the wheel bearings. Otherwise, I'll drive it here and there til the weather gets bad. I'll have to get some logs once the axle is changed and see where I'm at with the car and decide where to go from there!
So with 53k miles on the built motor , and about 50k on the PTE 5862, I've been doing a lot of maintenance on the car. Replaced the drivers side axle, the rear sway bar bushings, the front endlinks, and other little things. Car has been sitting in the garage for the most part. My 245/40/17 tires were shot after taking much abuse over the summer and I got a deal on some 255/40/17 hankook r-s3 for $400 with about 1000 miles on em, so I scooped em up. I ended up having to get the GM extended studs and a 15mm spacer for them to clear my coilovers up front .
Heres how they look with my enkei rp01 +42 and 15mm spacer up front, and no spacer in the back. They poke, but fuck it. . . They no longer spin at the top of 3rd gear.
Also took a log today out of curiosity , as it's time to replace the 5862 or at least have it rebuilt. It's smoking during really long idle. Sucks, but I bought this turbo used for $600 and got a lot of use out of it. I've also officially been running PTE turbos and @Realgib3 tunes for 91k miles now
Almost forgot. Picked up a perm buttplug last weekend.
So update, since I had some time to fiddle with the car over the weekend. Pulled the intake and disconnected the downpipe from the turbo. No oil anywhere, so turbo is fine, which is a relief. Very minimal shaft play is promising.
Replaced the pcv valve and smoking stopped.
Also, regarding the graph a few posts up, the slow spool seems to be just a part of what the tune was doing with the cold weather. Wgdc was being pulled due to IAT's being in the low 40's, keeping everything in check as far as hitting the load targets in that range and also up top. This is actually exciting, as cold weather on my setup has always been an issue as far as boost creep goes (free flowing exhaust) . Back when I was stock block, it took 0%wgdc above 6krpm to keep boost from creeping over 22psi.
There will be some changes made to the car over the winter, however.
1. Ditching the Cobb intercooler for a bigger treadstone core with a 3" cold side pipe.
2. Ditching the meth for a 6th port
3. Replace pcv plate gasket (perm plate is leaking)
4. Replace oil pickup tube
5. Delete balance shaft and install baffle in the pan
6. Poly exhaust hangers, the cat back rattling around is annoying as hell lol.
7. Try to have this all done and retuned in time for ENM
Props to KW for making fantastic suspension parts. My mazdaspeed coilovers after 90k+ miles still look brand new and still ride just like they did on day one.
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